This is my favorite post about keebs I’ve ever read. I want some creams now. 딱 딱 sounds nice.
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Been out of the loop regarding linears for the past 3 years.
What is the current go to silent linear that I should look for?
Honestly there has been much less innovation in the silent linear space than the silent tactile space. Although there is a silent linear version of GazzeW’s Boba switches which might be worth looking at. I have a few samples of the silent tactile Bobas which are far & away the best MX silenced/damped tactile switch I have tried. So I’d imagine the linear variant is no slouch either. Beyond that there is Healios (Zeal’s silent linear) which are top tier silent linear IMO. I should mention I am not a fan of silenced/damped switches & still consider MX Zilents (MX silent black or red stem in a V1 Zealio housing) the best MX silent linear. So I’d wait on some other opinions from people who use silent linears on the regular TBH.
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I will have some Silent Alpacas soon, thanks to a Canadian GB. I have enough quantity to allow for testing, so I may post impressions.
I bought them because they are said to be the best [factory] silent linears once lubed and filmed. I’d have to figure out the spring weight first.
I use tactiles, but got pulled into the linear game b/c of Alpacas. All of these JWK linears are great [and usually the same except for spring] but they mostly need to be lubed and filmed.
The Silent Alpacas came at a good time, because I think they could potentially do well in a dampened macropad, like the Campine depicted in the KAM Playground GB. For single-press buttons, a smooth and quiet linear could be ideal. That’s my theory, anyway.
I’m curious about what can be built as a symmetrical macropad with some vertical keys.
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I’m also expecting silent Alpacas and have pretty high expectations for them.
Also ordered some FFF as well 
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Good call, I forgot about silent alpacas! I’d imagine Durock has some stock silent linears available on their Aliexpress store that should be comparable to silent alpacas also. Kinda funny the JWK/Durock silent linears are really good, but their silent tactiles kinda suck from what I’ve heard… 
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Hold my beer for sure, not enough portion control to control consistency, lube gets everywhere inside the switch vs the targeted areas you want, possibility of the accelerant used could react badly with the plastics, the excess lube you’ll put in each switch for it fully lube it will end up pooling at the bottom or leak out onto the PCB, etc. Seems like the board would end up being an inconsistent feeling, chattering mess not to long after doing something like this in my mind.
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What switches have a open center-“pin”? I’m thinking about lubing from the other side would work better. 
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Hmm, Kaihl BOX switches had the center pin open on the bottom. Not sure if that has changed with retoolings or not though. Interesting ideal that might be more plausible than spray lubing from the top. Personally I still wouldn’t do it, but if you have some BOX switches that have the center pin open & a hotswap board doing a few that way would let you know if it is viable or not.
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I’m not sure where the cut-off is, but some Box switches have the ports and some don’t. More recent “mainline” ones don’t seem to, but the Hakos I have do, the Art Boxes I have do, and some of the older regular Boxes I’ve seen also have them.
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The only silent linear that I’ve tried and liked was Silent Inks – enough so that I bought some. MX Silents, Gat Silents, Helios, Silent Alpacas, and even MX Silents all have just felt wrong to me for some reason. I think the magic of the Inks is the slow curve spring which makes me feel a little tactile swell in the downstroke and the slightly firmer dampeners that don’t feel like mush. Not that any of the other switches mentioned are bad (well perhaps the gat Silents), but just not for me.
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what type of SPRiT springs did you use on the Mauves? standard (linear) ones? @donpark
are you still using them?
SPRiT standard 63.5g. Still abusing them.
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i really shouldn’t have laughed at the “abusing them” part ahahahaha
From what i am researching, keycap profiles can actually impact a lot on the spring weight feel
slightly heavier springs for higher profiles like SA and KAT, lighter springs for Cherry profile
I would love to know what profiles you people are all using and if it did impact on the weighting choice
this thread has been an amazing read!
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I just use the stock tealios springs and GMK caps for pretty much everything.
Cherry all the way. I’ve tried others but Cherry is like home.
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That’s a great way to put it. Cherry profile just feels right on your fingers, it’s natural and all the keys are exactly where you expect them to be.
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I had some lighter springs and together with DSA it was all fine and dandy, but then I got some MT3 and it went to a awful feeling. Now I have changed the springs again…
I don’t know whether to call them progressive or steep or fast-curve, but the short stubby springs from Halo Trues make for some nice firm, bouncy linears. They actuate at a pretty normal weight but quickly get heavy towards the bottom. I last used them with OEM but I bet they’d be good for some nice thicc MT3 caps.