In my spare time, I am learning KiCad and how to read some of the nt-980 PCB details. Taking a closer look at the PCB connector to the original daughterboard I saw only half the pins are used. Which makes sense as only 1 of the 4 dip switches does anything with the nt-980. So the daughterboard can be bypassed by using JST 2.0 pin connector instead of the 10 pin original one. This might be useful to someone who doesn’t have or damaged their original daughterboard.
Alternate way to go into bootloader mode short the 2 holes with red arrows in the picture.
Note: I did learn the hard way to always triple check wiring before connecting. Was looking at the top view of the PCB in KiCad and didn’t realize it because zoomed in pretty far. This swiftly fried my extra PCB. Fortunately it was an extra so I wasn’t too upset. I did confirm with a different PCB and the original oem PCB it does work properly.
Just found this thread. Super interested to do this myself. I also found a bluetooth adapter for the FC980C. What do you guys think about it working with the custom PCB?
@HonestIago
That controller is specific to the fc980c output and wouldn’t be compatible. There is a similar one for the fc980m (it’s occasionally on AliExpress) that someone might be able to finagle to work but would be hacky and expensive.
Bluetooth details is not something I know too much about but in theory you could get a generic keyboard to Bluetooth USB stick. Then bury most of it in the case.
Alt, in theory the MCU could be changed to accommodate Bluetooth. Beyond way beyond my still set.
Bluetooth has been a thorn in my side with my desktop (I tried multiple dongles). Less so on my laptop. When I want to use my keyboard I just want it to work right away without messing around. My headphones are bluetooth which I accept my daily turn Bluetooth off and back on daily and things mostly work ok.
I wish something like the Logitech unified receiver was open sourced and could be incorporated into non Logitech stuff. Maybe there is an open sourced rf transmitter and receiver out there.
For anyone who’s planning on removing the plate, after spending a bit of time trying to desolder this with a solder sucker and solder wick, this heat-and-slide method was the one that finally worked for me.
I’ve can confirm that BT dongle is NOT compatible with this particular custom PCB. I got a yang 980M BLE and it’s running a custom YMK (closer to via) for BT and works incredibly well, but it can only work with the stock PCB.
Additionally, I noticed that the mini USB B and a 5 pin breakout. I’m not entire sure what’s that for, but I prefer to install a custom USB C port.
I have been working on altering the open source design to learn a bit more and see were I could put my spin on the PCB design. All credit still goes to the original designer without that I wouldn’t know where to start.
Bottom row layout options
Stepped caps lock option
Labels for alternate layouts. Tried something a little different with shapes on the back to quickly ID the layouts quickly and easily (that is the idea at least)
Numpad Enter and Plus rotated
Added alternated LED location under num lock key
Additional Reset pins under delete key
Added second USB connection (JST 2.0 5 pin). Retained the original connector in the spirit of the original design. The alternate position can also be used with the stock case but eliminates the need for the Leopold daughterboards.
Converted most but not all the key positions to Kaihl hotswap. (The coper rings around the hotswap holes don’t do anything I just thought they looked ) Why because I have switch and layout commitment issues. I thought this could potentially be a good compromise where I can have my cake and eat it too. I get mostly the better hotswap sockets yet I can still have the alternate layouts I want. When this works I can make a fully “normy” solder version for those less adventurous .
Next step is to work on the FR4 plate and place an order. I think I am about a week or so out. If anyone has any comments let me know and I will consider adding them. (Will also make a gitHub repo for this after I confirm it works). Due to part shortages, I have to solder the MCU so JLCs minimum order of 5 PCBs will probably work in my favor I mean I can probably do it right at least 1 out of 5 attempts
Layouts (originally supported split left shift and ISO enter added bottom row and split caps lock) (Edit: Corrected typo in original)
electronically illiterate here: can i just confirm that v2 run of the pcb will be hotswap? what were you saying about
will the standard fc980 layout (first orange row with 1.25 Fn–i think that’s a typo in the diagram?) be hotswap? or do i have to ask you to do it if I order a pcb and plate? i’ve purchased a second 980M and would love to get a hotswap pcb and plate for it.
@insolentpotato
Good catch on the typo for the layout options (I corrected it above). KLE layouts can be a bit of a pain.
For the traditional FC980 layout 88 keys are Kaihl hotswap sockets 10 are traditional solder sockets. For my setup I am planning on soldering in Holtite sockets for the alternate layouts. So I can have the benefits of alternate layouts and hotswap (the Kaihl hotswap sockets are superior IMO rather then going all Holtite though I guess that is an option too if this idea doesn’t pan out)
This PCB shot from the back might be easier to visualize the different sockets.
All changes from original worked! (markings showed up nice)
Black PCB is way cooler looking then the green one
HASL-RoHS finish is noticeably uneven when compared to ENIG fortunately those were over the surfaces being soldered anyway
The mix match of Kailh hotswaps and through holes turned out nice
I need to to back and replace the JST connector it works but I have the proper part coming in the mail.
Going with 7u layout to start and see if I can get over the windows key muscle memory.
FR4 Plate: Ooopsies
2 of the mounting holes where slightly off. Not sure why I need to review might just change the hole shape in the future so I don’t need to worry about it.
Steps caps lock. Forgot to do this alternate position when lining up the dxf.
Good
1 it works (in both Heavy-9 and after some Dremel and Drill action the stock case)
JLC made it with a black solder mask (their Gerber viewer was a bit messed up and gave a preview with no mask)
Its nice black mat finish I like way over the finger print magnet of Acrylic
^
Build Problems
Just including this here to show that things don’t always work out on the first try.
This whole process was very frustrating because in the back of my head I wasn’t sure if it was something I was doing wrong now or had totally messed up in the PCB design tweaks.
Things arrived and I was feeling pretty good. Installed the SMD components JLC didn’t have, resonator, MCU and ESD chip. Then tried to plug it in and nothing… After much testing around with a multi-meter everything appeared to be soldered correctly. So I started replacing components and still nothing. Asked/begged for help around and thought it might be the bootloader (or lack of bootloader on the ATMEGA32u4 chips. So built an ISP flasher with a pro Micro (followed this guide https://beta.docs.qmk.fm/using-qmk/guides/keyboard-building/isp_flashing_guide). Was able to decrypt the instructions and get it to flash the chip. Still not luck. Some more resoldering and nothing. I decided to try again with another new PCB and it worked.
Got through 50% of the switches and realized I messed up the plate steps lock key. Took everything apart again cut it and put it back together.
When I have more patience will go back and desolder everything and try again.
I redrilled all the circle holes between the numpad and escape key. The one near the escape key one was off by like 3-4 mm. The others were ok but tried to enlarge them to make it nicer. The caps lock mistake can be seen from the photo with no switches vs the one with switches.
I will do a more indepth photos with the stock case and comparisons with the stock plate that’s going to be a few weeks need a break from soldering. Planning on keeping 2 stock cases for decoy/guest/travel boards. I have an odd obsession with trying to get the yellow case one, one day mechanicalkeyboards.com…
yoooo i’ve been searching for the same board myself–its the 980M PD Parrot (the name in Asian markets). argh!!! please take your time i was just asking if you had the photos already off the top of your files. i’ll go back and look at those areas in your imgur album. but yes, the yellow 980M model has not been restocked on mk dot com for a while so i’ve been hunting for it in the aftermarket.
Regarding my connection issue. Was able to secure the MCU with solder paste using a stencil and hot air station. But that didn’t provide enough connectivity to all the pins (oddly enough provided enough connection on the pins to ISP flash though). I ended up using Kapton tape to hold the chip in place while drowning it in flux and using drag solder with an iron.
I am getting used to WKL layout just needed a few windows key shortcuts for open file explorer, lock and show desktop so it wasn’t too jarring to my everyday use.
I’ve been dreaming about building something like this but my skills at SMD soldering are severely lacking so I figured I’d just hope for a extras or a group buy to snag.
Did JLCPCB do the soldering and part sourcing work on this or was it only the PCB printing?
@PrivateAstronaut Thanks! This was my dream too (along with a metal case)
JLCPCB can do everything except:
10 pin connector: JLC just started offering this part, or I never noticed it until now, so I haven’t ordered it from them. It is a little bit intimidating to solder but isn’t too bad once you lightly tin a pad and tack it into place. I use an iron and solder paste.
JST connector: I don’t know if they have the part or not but I definately did not set up the footprint in the PCB design with a footprint so this part would need to be manually added. It is through hole so pretty straightforward soldering
Kailh Sockets: Not offered from JLC that I saw. I like to use a good amount of solder on tinning the pads then add the socket and use the iron to push each side down. That way the socket is super secure and less likely to pop off.
Suggest creating a JLC account and adding the Gerber, BOM and Place files to your order that way you can see what parts JLC has in stock. Once it is in your account you can back to your order at a time. So if you are waiting for a part to be in stock this is the easiest way I have found to keep track of everything. They have been perpetually out of the resonator C341521 but that part can be replaced with this one C882606.
JLC Oddities: Just a heads up the JLC steps of “Select the parts” & “Review Parts placement” are a bit messed up. They give weird quantities for some parts like for example 6 or 9. That doesn’t make any sense as neither of those are divisible by 5. The “Review Parts Placement” never actually shows the part placements. These things are straightened out when you complete your order (for quantity). And a few hours later when they do an analysis of the order. Also their Gerber viewer can be a bit wacky and not show cutouts (or show cutouts in a different color). I have no idea why it does this but others I have talked to experienced the same thing with different PCBs on the viewer but they came out okay when manufactured.
The good/bad thing is JLC makes you order 5. So you have 5 tries to get it one working :). Extras you can sell to recoup some of the costs. If it gives you a confidence boost, I have only done this twice but I was able to figure it out both times and have documented the process here.
You wouldn’t happen to still have any extras from this order would you? Stumbled on a malfunctioning version and this would be a sweet upgrade…
And since the answer is likely no, what was the total cost to order the 5 PCBs?
Sorry, no I don’t have extras. A few people on KeebTalk and Reddit contacted me and I sold what I wasn’t going to use (yay first MechMarket transactions)
In regards to cost:
1st round ended up being $35 per PCB (Choose ENIG finish and a few other options that drove up the cost). Sold a few for $40 and send the designer, evyd13, $5
2nd DK HS Version $47.58 per PCB. This was due to the cost of the different types of hotswap sockets and having to source materials from multiple places
It can be done cheaper depends on what JLC has in stock and the version being made.
In the next few months, I am going to be making a final revision with Sarvopari that has all solder sockets (so basically my HS version but with solder sockets instead and maybe some minor tweaks). There probably won’t be an extras from that run because don’t want to order a bunch a find out something is wrong with the design.
)
2 of the mounting holes where slightly off. Not sure why I need to review might just change the hole shape in the future so I don’t need to worry about it.
