I’ll 3d-print a case for it
I don’t care about wireless, it can be wired
South-facing RGB is nice but not a must-have
I have minimal soldering skills
Also i did a similar post in the past but with a 65% but i found out a 64-key layout works better for me.
If you mean a Minila style 64-key, where they cram the arrows into the lower right of a 60% (61-key) footprint by playing with the sizes a bit, you can get this (and a soldering iron). If you’re not in the US you can search for it on Amazon or AliExpress.
https://www.amazon.com/Programmable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Support-Underglow/dp/B07GTBX7L2?th=1
Also, @skwrl does a pretty slick variation on that style that splits the spacebar farther for more utility. I was running the Tofu I made from one of his PCBs just the other day.
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Thanks and yes i meant a minila styled one
I used the PCB @wjrii linked to many times, and can recommend it.
Regrettably there are not that many minila-type PCBs available as they used to be a couple of years ago.
This picture of one of my boards uses the YMDK-PCB from the aforementioned link.
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Looking for them in aliexpress, i noticed most keyboards have some weird rgb placement especially at the backtick and 1 key and also the caps lock. Whats up with that?
Thats great, i’ll consider. Altough i think i will just get a regular minila style one.
I looked it up and it seems that it is to fit the usb-c, which makes sense actually. And the caps-lock is probably in a weird spot for better indication
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I could have sworn I’d seen something like this before, though most of the ones I’ve got are Mill-max socketed boards (so required soldering).
The “core” PCB for the KBDcraft boards is a Minila layout, hotswap, and I think at least has Via/Vial (and is based on QMK).
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Ahh, yeah, that’s a good one! I actually like the idea of that whole line a lot, a minila + a numpad, but I think they made absolutely the wrong choice in how to manage the fact that a 4u-wide numpad doesn’t mesh well with Lego spacing. Putting the gap in (looks like almost 1/8u) in the middle is baffling to me.
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Yup, they’re definitely fun project boards. I like the split one the most even though I normally hate splits, as it’s one of the few boards that supports ChocV2 switches.
I think the numpad gap may also be for supporting splitting the numpad in half, or perhaps that’s what they did when they found the spacing wouldn’t work. But yeah, that part definitely annoys me. 
Looking at their Lilith/Lilin kit, I think you may be right at the design level, though their Adam20 does seem to be a one-piece PCB. Honestly, the effort does no favors to either design, making for both a weird numpad and a weirder two-part modular macro-pad. Probably not bad in use. Just… interesting.
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