The Heavy-6 and Yang 660C controller does not work very well out of the box, connection wise, and due to the rear cover plate not having a cutout for the button. The only solution I found to this is to laser cut out an acrylic rear cover plate with a cutout
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Thanks! This project has been plagued by an improbable confluence of setbacks (I paid to get the housings re-made twice because I wasn’t happy with the finish) but we’re pushing through on it and nearing the end of the tunnel. Fortunately rear cover plates are easy and fast to re-make, so we have a rush order in for those and hope to get them in within the next few weeks.
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thanks for sharing. is your Heavy-6 aluminium or polycarb?
my experience thus far with Yang HHKB controller has been exceptional, I don’t even need to switch off the board at all and the battery still last me almost a month from full charge and connection-wise, zero issue with the stock plastic HHKB housing. That’s why I’m confident the Heavy-6 polycarb housing would be similar, despite the steel rear plate. Don’t think I’ll ever need a cutout, just set once and forget.
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Also worth noting, there is a deep sleep mode you can enable to conserve power. On YDKB.io, the button is called “Lock Mode”. Normally it takes a while to turn off Bluetooth, but by using this function you can force it into a deep sleep mode to save power and turn off Bluetooth.
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As far as I know, I might be the only person with an Urbi et Orbi from the latest batch(?).
As for the cutout, you’ll probably need to figure something out as the design of the YDKB controller has it so when the button is pressed down, BlueTooth is disabled and when it isn’t pressed down its enabled.
In this picture, the button is just tall enough to where if I were to put the rear plate flush to the case it would press the button thus disabling BlueTooth. However, Rooski gave me a solution that worked for him but not for me which was to short the pins in which the button was soldered on while it was pressed down but that didn’t work for me
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Even after messing about and getting it so that the button wouldn’t be pressed down when I had the rear plate flush and screwed onto the case I experienced connectivity issues in which the Heavy-6 would disconnect and disappear from the “searching for wireless devices” list on Windows, and it was only when removing the rear plate, it would reappear and reconnect. I then quite literally placed the back of my Heavy-6 straight onto the wireless adapter on my PC for it to work but was very delayed and laggy.
So far, I’m assuming the problem has less to do with the steel backplate and more to do with the fact that the YDKB controller is sandwiched between the FC660C steel plate and the steel backplate unlike an HHKB or Heavy Grail which is a ABS plate, and replacing either one would allow connectivity to go through.
That has so far been my experience with attempting to mod my Urbi H6 to be wireless, maybe you’ll get lucky and it’ll just work.
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Not sure if it would work with the 660C, but maybe the bluetooth module in the new 660MBT might be another way to make this wireless.
thanks for the picture! it’s much clearer to me now as I’ve misunderstood your initial post.
I have not bought the Yang controller for 660C yet so I assume it was a side switch like the ones for HHKB. Just dumb question though - if BLE is disabled when the button is pressed, while not just take out the slider and have it permanently on? As I’ve said I never open the back cover of my HHKB to manually switch off BLE anyway so it seems quite natural to me this is the way to go
Finally got time to assemble the case. The box itself is huge, even larger than my Norbaforce boxes. The magnetic lid is such a nice touch. The evolution is clear just by lining up the boxes together.
The case itself is B-stock with white steel rear plate, solid as its namesake and can easily pass as A-stock if you’re not looking for the blemishes.
Here are some pics of the welcome-to-the-family party. And we’re expecting a few more!
P.S: @norbauer I’m not quite sure what the two elastic bands in the tool box are for? 
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From what I recall, they’re for holding the norbauer box closed if you store a board or case in it
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Thanks for sharing these photos @thelaughingman! For anyone else interested, we have a few more of these b-stocks available—just email.
Incidentally, the plates for the original pre-order A-stock arrived this week, so the remaining PC Heavies-6 should—at long last—be shipping next week. (Assuming the rest of our workshop team are able to back from their precautionary pandemic self-quarantines next week, as anticipated.) Thanks to everyone has has borne with us through this long lead time.
Those are just for helping hold the box closed in cases where the contents are a bit overstuffed, but our new boxes don’t require them because they have much stronger magnets. They are just still in some of the parts packs from before we upgraded the magnets.
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good to know! so they are now holding my Norbaforce boxes instead 
Looks like folks who ordered their Heavy-6’s this year are already receiving them. That’s very odd because I ordered mine in May of last year (2021) and haven’t heard a word about when I’ll be getting it.
When asked when it was ordered…
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That is a b-stock housing, which you can tell from the gray badge on polycarb. Those went out earlier (of course) because they arrived in the first batch that we rejected.
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I appreciate that, thank you for the explanation.
I got my Heavy-6 U&O last November when I decided to forgo Norbauer’s packaging, I wonder if Ryan is still offering that deal.
Finally gave my PC H6 the full Deskey treatment and the MT3 spacebar it deserves. This is the first batch of spacebar slider without the fixed stem, luckily no cracking on the keycap at all - but it’s super tight and a bloody pain to remove the keycap.
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I made the Yang BLE x Heavy-6 PC works guys! Bluetooth signal is very good, no disruption at all.
The how: 2mm spacers do the trick, now the BLE switch is completely cleared off the backplate. I leave it permanently on because there’s no point in turning them on/off to save battery. Yang controller is already great at that and I can go for a month at work without needing to plug in charging cable
Bonus pic: cool side-view showing the battery - it’s a 2500mAh champ!
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So some more info on this, the standoffs included with the case is 7mm M3 female-female. My washers were 2mm thick.
Basic math tells me to get 9mm standoffs to streamline it. And it works perfectly, clearance between the button and the backplate is <1mm so you’ll need a thin metal part to actuate it.
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literally my internal thought process when urbi first launched and then i had a chance at it again 2024 thx @Goguma btw
and it’s liiiive:
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