Ooh. I found a nice switch to make with these. I put the slightly long red stems in my Gateron silent yellow housings (all black nylon). 2 wrongs CAN make a right 
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Little new project PCB came in, as well as Filament for the new 3D printer (I never should have went that way…)
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AlpineFL PCBs from Neonknight and Karolus have finally arrived! I got one with flex cuts and one without. It’s an Alps-focused PCB and the bottom row supports a lot of unusual configurations, very helpful for all those non-standard vintage Alps keysets.
And now I get to finish a long-outstanding project! I’ll just leave this teaser here:
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Nice. What keycaps are you going to use? Also, what’s your plan to keep the switches straight on the plateless portion?
After a long wait I finally received the components to solder the Phoenix Project No 1 PCBs.
It is time for some serious soldering job bois !
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For those that are interested, here 's what she sounds like post lube job.
Next Modifying the JTK HSA G, H, and B keys to fit around the track point, then maybe pulling the stabs to tune them, as the lift Shift is a bit scratchy…
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Report back when you have it assembled. I wanna know what that mounting system feels like
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Will do, planning on taking the setup I have in my Klippe out to try it out tonight!
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You know I love my stickers.
Akko Cream Yellows
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Thanks! I’m going to use a sort of ‘alignment comb,’ like the one used in this awesome and inspiring build.
They also used LEDs as fixing pins to keep the switches aligned and secured. This PCB doesn’t support LEDs on every switch so my current plan is to just use the comb thingy and…hope it works! 
For caps I’m most likely going to use SGI Beige or Granite, but I might go with Tai-Hao WoB Cubic.
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Custom Danish/Hebrew caps from 21kb, for a friend studying in Denmark. I still need to figure out how to ship this V1 board and the caps to him without it getting trashed in shipping, or making him pay customs upon receipt. I’ve never shipped internationally before.
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TX Classic TKL in beige. I’ve always loved the funky inset top of this board, and I’m glad they brought it back
It’s a warmer beige than the recently acquired class80. I’d call it “tan”. It’s the color of a light wood.
Weird plate. It’s a gray plastic, 5mm thick. Since it’s sandwich mounted, it’s quite firm. I’m assuming the benefits will be acoustics.
One thing that sets this apart from previous TX offerings is that is does not have the typical large brass weight. Happy to report that it is plenty hefty and doesn’t suffer from the exclusion.
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Hella brass and stainless steel plates came in from Sho, these have the OEM bends that RealForce does to the stock plates. Very excited to build these.
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So I got a little time in with the Salvation now & am happy to report the mounting works great! It definitely makes the typing feel a good bit softer & more consistent than tray mount. it has more bounce than flex to it. If you want a lot of movement from the PCB/plate assembly I suggest using a half plate with a PCB that has flex cuts. Right now I got my setup with a HAD60 PCB (4 flex cuts) Carolina Mech FR4 half plate, L+F Pewters, with Durick V1 stabs in it & it’s making for a crazy typing experience! Lots of bounce & super soft feel. I was a little worried this setup would be too bouncy or soft, but it seems to be working out perfectly! Gotta give Wilba & Salvun a lot of credit on this one, this mounting system is the perfect solution to make for a nice soft typing feel for tray mount 60% setups!
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That sounds great. I happen to have a had60, a 1/2 plate from Carolina mech and pewters! I know that I really like tactile switches in flex builds.
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So, this case is a dead on match with the DCX Jasmine alphas.
I honestly don’t think they could have color matched better if they tried.
It’s also very close to the color used for Carbon and Godspeed. So, there will be lots of options to trick this board out.
With the included foam, the build is basically sitting on the bottom of the case, even though it’s a sandwich mount. So, it is very firm, but very consistent. The sound is really nice. I assume that’s mostly from the 5mm plastic plate. I’m happy with it!
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Got a package in from SP/PMK today. I had been curious about SA-P and when I saw that they were now selling convex SA-P short bars I figured I’d try 'em out (as I mentioned in another thread it appears that they have stopped selling SA convex short bars).
- Also got some translucent DCS caps to try them out
- some UnAlice novs since @pixelpusher reminded us of that set the other day, the dye sub is so nice on them.
- Also wanted to try out some SA-P dye sub caps which are also very nice.
Was curious so I did a thickness test for the SA-P caps (from left to right, SA-P, Regular SA, MT3 PBT
They seem very thick. I assume that’s offset somewhat by not having an internal structure (like MT3 or a second shot like regular SA) but it’s doubtlessly a very chunky keycap.
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