Wow. They do sound better than in the sound test video using Cherry profile! 
Have you run into an issue where your stabilized keys donāt āreturnā enough to reset the click device? Iām having inconsistent results (2 of 3 stabilized keys donāt click) across multiple types of stabs (Staebies and C3).
Currently Iām using an NK_ Cherry PBT set (PBOW) but I eventually was planning to put a GMK set on this board so Iāll experiment with different profiles and see what happens.
1 Like
I had that issue using an ePBT set. I had a space bar and left shift that were temperamental about returning. They were a bit loose on the stabilizers so I added teflon tape and it fixed the space bar. For the left shift, I found out the stabilizer wire had popped out on one side. Popped it back in and didnāt have further issues. The board is using Durock v1 stabilizers.
2 Likes
ah, great to know. I am going to try a GMK set on it tonight to see if that changes anything. I did check the stabs and they seemed ok
This switch wonāt make your coworkers cry
Iām loving them so far, and they are easily on my short list of favorite clickies - but Iām pretty sure my coworkers would still hate them. 
Not as much as click bars or click jackets mind you - but I still wouldnāt be too inclined to take these to the office, coffee shop, or library. Least offensive they may be, they still click.
I put mine in a plastic NK87 last night and I love the sound.
Iāll be consolidating this stuff in a review in the near future but while itās fresh in my mind, a few more notes about these Cream Clickie switches, after having another evening with them:
-
While the factory force curve illustration shows the Snapple Cap resetting in the middle of the up-stroke, Iāve found any time Iām moving slow enough to discern at all, itās happening right up-top, rather than around the middle where it depresses. Itās pretty easy to actuate the switch repeatedly without clicking after itās clicked but not yet re-set.
-
Itās also possible to actuate the switch before it clicks in general, but that actually takes some care and slow movement even though they are handled by separate mechanisms. I find the click and actuation to be quite reasonably synced at anything past a very slow and careful press.
-
Unlike normal MX switches, the pre-loaded spring on this one wonāt shoot away unless you release the captive plunger; with the plunger in-place the spring stops moving the stem right at top-out. This plays into the next point:
-
Removing or flipping the cap does work to linearize the switch, but that causes an extra iota of vertical play thanks to the captive plunger. This play gives the switch an odd and inconsistent top-out noise. Iām kind of curious to see what happens if I replace the metal snap-cap with a thin silicone sheet.
Heck, NK_ could even sell little silicone discs like they do with the Cream+ inserts. Alright where are my tiny scissors
5 Likes
Iām these sound like fun! Iād love to hear the ālinearā version, just for kicks (if you want to put that in your review 
)
Thanks @pixelpusher and @donpark for the videos, too!
2 Likes
Ha! I noticed the exact same thing. Thought I was being picky. But yes, as a linear switch, Iām not a huge fan. HOWEVER, if they could somehow use this stem/housing design to make a linear switch with that HUGE bottom contact area, being super smooth, and very low wobble. That would be heaven. I wonder if they have something cooking.
Iām still not sure how this design works.
I think the current stem design actually has the spring loaded sliding stem to ensure that the metal āpopā happens consistently. Itās made in a way to ensure the cap in the bottom has room to push back no matter what. So, the bottom collision you feel is actually the stem rails and not the pole, right? Imagine if that large pole base could thud on the bottom.
4 Likes
Wasnāt expecting them today, but i have received my Feker white Marble switches. Iām not sure about the manufacturer, could be something like Huano or Jerrzi or even one of the newer ones like Weipeng or Lichicx or something.
They are long pole linears with the typical PC top, Nylon bottom POM stem combo and with a light factory lube. The lube isnāt the most consistent but they feel smooth enough and even better than that after some hand lubing. Curiously, 8 of the switches did not have long poles. I guess that Feker skimped out on the QC when they were ordered from the Manufacturer to reduce the cost. 90 Switches cost me 11 dollar, so canāt really complain there.
9 Likes
Seeing norm and long poles in the same batch is a first for me. How weird, but using the longs on just the alphas might make for a really niffy build.
2 Likes
I actually just put a few of these UPE stems in some leftover frankenswitches that I had after making some BCPs. They went into a JWK P66 Nylon top housing, Cherry Hyperglide bottom, and some springs I had leftover from Gat KS-3 Milky Yellows (50g, I thinkā¦)
Put Deskeyfilms on them and everything was pretty tight and smooth. Stem wobble was minimal, but I guess that is to be expected with JWK top/stem comboā¦
Springs were already lightly lubed, and I lubed the bottom housing with a light coat of 205g0.
Will have to pop them in a board and try them out some time this week and report back.
Iāve been having fun trying out the UPE stems in other switches. I also have some of the P3 stems as well.
2 Likes
Interesting. I have some JWICK blacks so will test the UPE stem in them with film. Thx!
1 Like
Got these today:
Theyāre pretty much everything they say they are. I donāt have a full board yet, so Iāll report back later. But for now, I can say this.
- The color is cool.
- The diffuser is the best Iāve seen yet.
- They are VERY solid at the top and through most of the switch travel. Very little wobble.
- The lube job is good. I donāt know about consistency yet.
- Smooth. No hint of texture or scratch.
- Sound is nice and full. Hits the sweet spot of sounding decisive but not overly clacky.
Theyāre pretty much perfect long pole linears.
Only two complaints I have are:
- Slight wobble when fully depressed (result of being a long pole switch).
- Spring just a smidge too heavy at the top for me. I would prefer a linear spring like Gateron yellow if I could pick, or even a 2-stage lighter spring around 60g.
CHIRP CHRIP. See below post 
. There is an issue but I found a way to make it better
Iām going to try to use them in a hotswap board and see if I can get used to the spring weight. If not, Iāll do a spring swap. The first two I opened up had no issues after reassembly. They didnāt loosen up or need films.
UPDATE: used them in a board, the weight is okay. I can use it without much issue. The chirping isā¦ annoying. Iāll lube a full set and see if I can live with the outcome. Damnit, why canāt we have easy switches?
3 Likes
Sounds sweet indeed, exactly what I like.
Are they really a long stem??
I did find one issue after posting. I noticed that if I press on the bottom edge of the keycap and wobble it back and forth when fully depressed I get a high pitched tick. If I hold it up to my ear while pressing quickly I can sometimes hear it in the keypress like a rattle. I canāt hear it from normal typing distance.
I experimented. Added films, removed the diffuser, lubed the spring. nothing seemed to help. Then I figured out what was happening. It was the section just above the legs (the box area of the stem below the cruciform) hitting against the contact leaf. I put a swipe of 205g0 on the stem there and it silenced the problem. Because of that, Iāll probably end up opening all of these and lubing that section while I spring swap.
4 Likes
Verses a cream launch edition stem
Iām working on getting some calipers for measurements, but they appear to be the same length as cream stems if not slightly longer.
They apparently modified the bottom housing to allow full travel
Iām guessing that they wonāt help to fix GMK interference with South facing switches because the travel isnāt shortened, but Iāll check that later, too.
3 Likes
My lotus will go to me at the time of two or three weeks.
I bought two kinds. 80 grams and 63.
1 Like
If you get yours and notice the chirp, hereās what I did
Iāve done it on 4 switches and it worked for all of them so far. I remember having a similar issue with my second batch of H1 switches. I had to desolder a board of those because it bothered me so much. I never tried to fix them.
5 Likes
I always lubricate so))) all switches. I wouldnāt have noticed.
2 Likes
