I’ll definitely report back about them, but being honest I’m in the same camp as you TX stabs have been my go to since they came out. With them I feel like the softer plastic inside the slider makes a huge difference & the fact they still have a little play like Cherry clip ins is much more forgiving on PBT sets or any keys that might have a slight warp. I’m actually kinda worried about the new AP version since I heard they tightened up the tolerances. I personally have come to think stabs are much harder to work with & get them where you want them when they have tight tolerances. Look at Staebies, sure they sound & work good, but put a cap that isn’t perfectly straight with perfectly square cruciform mounts on it & it binds like nobody’s business LOL!
Thock thock thock! 2 packs of 0.7mm thockrings for less than 1 pack from Des. Unbeatable value!
So I’ve found there is an easy way to take these apart, but it’s a bit different than a typical stab.
If they’re fully-assembled, you’ll need to take the wire out first. Once the wire is out of the stem, there is a single small tab / protrusion at the front of the stem that keeps it in the housing. It nests into a rail in the front of the housing, and hits a small stop at the top. At first I needed small pliers to get them out but once I saw how they went together and got a little practice I was able to do it with just my hands: just pull up and wiggle a bit and that tab should clear the stop, releasing the stem.
Re-assembly is pretty normal and painless.
I decided to try mine dry - and I can’t say I recommend it more for QMX stabs than I would any other - which is to say not at all. Yes, they’re less rattly than the average set of bone-dry stabs - but they still rattle plenty without any lube. I think the real advantage these have is that they really cut-down on cap rotation, which is a pet peeve of mine.
I usually make and use my own designs, but:
- I wanted to see what a board from a reputable designer was like.
- I wanted a TKL.
- I wanted a Gondolindrim PCB
- I wanted a board that uses standard TKL PCB dimensions (the Frog is also compatible with Hiney PCB), so that I can play with my own designed PCB in the future.
OOh, I have this same setup. Very happy with it! I think you’ll like it a lot. It depends on the switches you use, but if you don’t have a plate fork, it can be a bit tricky with the PC plate. Not too difficult, but tricky.
I bought North Pole switches, wanted to try Oil Kings but none in stock …
No plate fork for me so I’ll have to be cautious with the PP plate, but I want to try the aluminum plate first to see how the board performs with all things metal in it
Today, I could no longer stand to type on the Filco in my ham shack with wobbly, soldered Cherry MX clears and MDA key caps.
So, I ordered a Keychron V3 knobless barebone in carbon black to replace it and give it my usual mod treatment. Luckily, I have SA keycaps on hand as well as plenty of Gazzew U4Tx switches. 
It’s amazing what this hobby does to one over the course of a couple months…
I now limit myself to 1 keyboard GB per year, and this year it’s the Derivative R1 silver hhkb. Recent VODs from Lightning and Alexotos heavily influenced my decision. Including extra pc plate and extra pcb.
Ordered nostyle’s Busy town R2 Deskmat and all 3 of Mascis Designs’ new Deskmat. Can never have too many.
I picked up an Ice Blue WK Ellipse.
@Rico I still don’t really understand how to order keyboards from Geon to the US.
There is no US or EU proxy, you have to directly order from Geon website in Korea, www.geon.works