Best (Quietist, Wobble Free, Super Smooth) Stabilizers for the Neo80 Keyboard?

So… I decided to go with a custom built board instead of a Keychron. I figured, if I’m going to get one of these great mechanical keyboards, I might as well make it myself and get everything exactly how I want (well almost everything lol).

So I decided on the Neo80 from Qwertykeys, but I just realized I need to buy some Stabs for this thing. I knew I had to buy switches and caps, but forgot I need stabilizers. I think it might come with some “included” stabs, but I want to get the best. I thought this was going to be a super simple thing, just look up which ones are best, but it turns out it’s not so easy. That there are 3 ways they attack to the keyboard. They attach by Screw In, Plate Mounted or Clip in. Then there are all different ways to mod them. So, it’s not as simple as I thought.

I also realized, I don’t even know how the Neo80 stabilizers attach into the keyboard? Plate mount, screw in or clip in? So I need to now that first.

And then, the other thing is, I’m making this keyboard to be as silent as possible. Using tall MT3 retro keycaps to give the caps a lower/muted tone. Using what most people say are THE most silent linear switches on the marker with the TTC Frozen Silent V2 switches. Going to use all the muffling pads that come with the board, etc. So I want to make sure that the stabilizers I get first of all work with my board, but most importantly, want them to be silky smooth, wobble free and ultra quiet.

So does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks

3 Likes

The Neo boards use PCB mount stabilizers, which can be either clip-in or screw-in; both work. The ones that come with the board are clip-in and quite decent for included stabs, but there are better options.

My personal favorites are:

  • SwagKeys Knight
  • Designer Studio Adaptive
  • Wuque Stupid / Maiz

I’m very picky about my stabs and have been happy with all of these. They use various methods to silence noise and I think they all do a great job. The Knights might be the most premium in terms of construction. There are a few others I’ve heard are great but I haven’t tried those.

2 Likes

Oh wow! That’s cool, I didn’t know I could use screw in. I did some searching around google before I posted this yesterday and couldn’t really find any good/definitive answers about what are “the best” stabilizers and what kind do the Neo80 use. I found a few sites that mention that the Neo80 only uses clip-in’s on the plate? But it was the google AI response, nothing from actual people. And I couldn’t tell if that meant the POM plate or the PCB board? It never clarified.

And then I saw that most keyboard enthusiasts say that screw in are usually the best, have the fewest problems, don’t wobble and are all around better. So I was kind of disappointed that the Neo80 only used clip in. But now that I know I CAN use screw ins, I’ll keep that in my cap when the board comes in. I’ll try it out with the clip-in stabs that the board comes with. And if they are fine, great. If not, I’ll order some of those Swagkeys Knight V3’s or the Wuque Stupid stabs. I did some more reading and found out that both of those, plus the TX Rev3’s are usually considered the “best” ones. I’ve never heard of the Designer Studio Adaptive. I’ll have to research those as well. I’m also looking for “easiest” to setup and maintain. And I know someone told me not too long ago (somewhere else) that the Wuque Stupids are literally the easiest thing in the world to install with little to no experience, work well and usually have no problems. So good to see you mentioning those.

I’ve been bookmarking all sorts of “how to install/tune and lube” your stabilizers videos on YT, so when my board finally gets here, I’ll know how to do that well. Should be easy, I’m pretty mechanically inclined and usually able to figure most things out even without help. Really looking forward to feeling and hearing the difference of a good custom board vs a std mechanical. Everyone raves about how smooth they feel. How amazing the sound. That it’s just so much better all around and such a luxurious feeling experience to type on them. Plus, as I mentioned, I’m shooting for an as silent as possible board, so that should be cool to experience as well. I HATE hearing sounds when typing. If I could make or buy a completely dead silent board, I would be ALL over that. It makes me laugh that there are TONS of people trying to build keyboards to be loud, clacky and have tactile bumps in the key press. That just blows my mind that people want that. I guess they miss typewriters, hahaha? Who knows? Different strokes for different folks. It’s really neat that there are SO many options now for keyboards and that everyone can make custom boards with so many amazing options.

Anyways, thank you so much for the reply! That helps a lot.

1 Like

Yea screw-in and clip-in stabs both mount to the same holes/footprint so either of them can work. As Deadeye mentioned when something mentions PCB Mount stabs that means both screw-in and clip-in stabs can work in it and they mount directly onto the PCB (not the plate), and plate mount stabs seat themselves onto the plate and are basically held down using tolerances and a little tab to stay stuck onto the plate. Goes without saying that plate mount stabs can’t mount onto the PCB because there is physically no way for it to. Most boards support PCB mounted stabs and you rarely see plate mount stab support at least from what I see.

3 Likes

Yeah, those AI responses often can’t parse the terminology and get things wrong.

Plate-mount stabs attach to the plate and all “clip” into place. PCB-mount ones (unsurprisingly) attach to the PCB through a set of holes - some of them use clips on those holes and some use screws. IIRC the Wuque Stupids are clip-in, but I wouldn’t count it against them. The clips are plenty strong, and come with wedge inserts you can glue in if you really want them to stay - though I’ve never used them.

TX have a great reputation because when they came out they were the biggest leap forward, but I honestly wouldn’t recommend them for a silent build next to those other three - I’ve done a lot of builds with them and I haven’t had as good results with them.

IIRC Knight and Adaptive stabs are screw-in, with the difference being the silencing method.

Knight and Stupid (basically identical to Maiz but prelubed with oil) both use soft material inserts to dampen sound, while Adaptive use a small plastic leaf spring in the stem to do the same. Stupids have the thinnest plastic parts but also have dampening material on the wire clip that the other two don’t, so they could feasibly be the best choice for a silent build.

Adaptive are the best for mitigating rattle between the wire and the stem, but can add a little extra friction for the same reason. Knights seem the most premium with the thickest materials, but Stupids might actually be the best choice thanks to the wire-clip dampeners - I’d recommend wiping off the parts before lubing, though as they come with light oil on them already. Maiz are the same minus that oil but are harder to find. Cheap, though - at least before shipping. Can’t go wrong with any of them IMO.

For lubing any of these, avoid any tips that say to add material like pads or tape to the wires or inside the stems; all that advice is for more traditional stabs that don’t have dampening like these do - and at least for the Adaptive ones, such mods will interfere with their functioning. Basically these stabs have equivalent mods pre-installed.

For me, just 205g0 has been sufficient for all the parts, but I’ve seen some folks have great results with also using thicker grease like 206g2, dielectric, or even Nyogel on the wires where they go into the stems. If you do go for a second grease for the wires, I’d recommend dielectric - Nyogel is amazing as a dampener but very easy to over-do as a beginner, and dielectric is much easier to clean back-off if need-be.

My method has been painting a thin sheen of 205g0 on the inside of the housings, outside of the stems, and a bit thicker on the ends of the wires to just a bit past the bends for where they clip-in. If you go with a thicker dampening grease, it would just go on the wires - I’d recommend sticking with 205g0 for plastic-on-plastic lubing.

3 Likes

Awesome! Thank you so much! This is all helping a lot

1 Like

Dang, thank you so much for all this helpful info! Sounds like the Stupid or Knight are going to be the best for me and for a silent build.

Again, thank you very much for all this great info! I was a little worried about building my own keyboard, but you guys are really helping out and I’m sure this is going to go smoothly now. I’ll have to post some photos when I’m done with a shout out to you guys for the help!

Best

1 Like

Best of luck on your build :slight_smile:

2 Likes

Cheers and enjoy your build! Feel free to ask if any questions come up during the process - this is generally a very helpful and friendly forum. I look forward to seeing your keyboard when it’s all done. :keyboard:

1 Like

This is the hardest part right now… just sitting around waiting for the keyboard to show up from China. Qwertykeys fulfillment page shows a usual fulfillment time of around 3-5 week from your order date until it’s delivered. So I’ve got a while to go, hahaha. Probably around early to mid May is when it should be in.

But I already ordered my keycaps, because I didn’t want to miss out on these specific ones. They were one of only like 1-2 sets that I even liked. I’ve searched for months online at every single retailer and just looking through thousands upon thousands of keycap photos to try and find something that “spoke” to me. I’ve had the hardest time finding good looking, elegant, polished, adult looking keycaps with a unique profile for a silver board with a clean simplified look that goes with my computer room/desk/computer setup. EVERYTHING in my room or setups is either white or light grey or silver. So it was really hard to find anything I loved. My fallback were the Drop DCL Snow caps. But again, I don’t like the DCL profile. And I wanted to do something other than just plain white, even though I love the look of blank tops with side print legends.

I ended up grabbing the Drop+Matt3o Dev/TTY set. The Neo80 I ordered is a silver anodized board and wanted either all white or a set with white alphas and very light modifiers and either no accent colors or just one pop of color. They look really good for the most part online, but worried the “white” alpha keys are going to be too off-white and not clean or bright white. So we’ll see. Might have to return them and start all over.

I did see some really cool darker and or nicely colored keycap sets if I had a totally different computer room setup. If I had a black or dark setup in my room, desk, computer, I’d have more options for sure. The Drop MT3 Dasher’s look incredible and I almost got those! Then the Domikey Atlantis set, the Single Chip set, the Blue wave set and possibly my favorite the Calm Depths all are about the same, just slightly different, but all amazing looking. Then Keychron has a fantastic dark KSA Dark Gray and Grayish Blue set that looks amazing (although I’ve read that some keyboard people think Keychron keycaps are garbage and don’t last long. I have no idea. But they sure look good). We’ll see. Maybe later down the road, when I build another computer, I’ll do a more subdued, simple case in a dark color or that has some wood in it, and then a new darker desk matt and one of those keycap sets. I LOVE them, but they just don’t go well with my overall aesthetic. And I’m a stickler for cohesive, simple, elegant design. So I just couldn’t bring myself to step away from the white, silver, light grey aesthetic I have going on. I’m really going for a very unified look with my setup. It makes the OCD/Perfectionist part of my brain feel sooo good, haha.

I’m not a fan of the Cherry/OEM style at all. They look too sharp and generic. I find the more rounded/sculpted keycap sets to have a more luxurious, mature, classic look that will never go out of style. They look like keycaps adults would use, haha. So that limits what I can get severely, since the large majority of keycaps are either Cherry or OEM style. So then I’ve been searching for only SA, KSA, MT3, XDA, OSA, etc. And there’s nowhere near as many sets in those unique styles. Plus I have very discerning taste, and to me, most keycaps look like they were made by a 15 yr old HS kid who watches Anime and plays video games all day. There is a severe lack of simple, classy, luxury looking keycaps and colorways. I wish I was in a position to be able to make keycaps, I could make so many amazing styles and colors if I had the money to do so.

But… it’s amazing that there are SO many options these days and it’s been so fun thinking about what I would build. Then researching, then finally sorting through all the options I had narrowed it down too and then finally making a decision. It was the same way with my first computer build I did a few years ago. Took 10x as long to decide what I wanted it to look like, then to actually buy it all and put it together, haha. And now that I’ve built this computer, I’m already wishing I had gone another route. A more subdued, classy, simple look. Something like the Fractal Design Mood, North or Terra or something along those lines. No RGB. My setup is super clean and classy, with only clean white RGB that is only at 25% brightness. But after seeing all these other classier cases, I feel like that’s the route I should have gone. But oh well. I’ll need another computer in 5-10 years and I’ll get to do this all over again. Or, I may just gift this computer to one of my Nephews in a few years when they’re old enough to be allowed to have a gaming computer and build a new one for myself at that time. This sure is a fun hobby and I’ve had a great time so far building my computer, finding the perfect desk, lighting, desk matt, mouse and now this keyboard. And even though it’s not “cheap” per say, it’s FAR cheaper to build everything yourself then to buy something prebuilt. Plus custom built looks 100x better and you have the satisfaction of knowing you built it yourself.

Thanks again guys, I’ll be posting photos for sure. And if I need anymore help, I’ll be back here. You guys have helped tremendously.

Best

3 Likes

I very much respect the amount of research you went ahead and did yourself to try and figure out everything you can about keyboards (I do alot of the same things when I am trying something new lol). MT3 Dev/TTY is a great set and hopefully you like them enough to stick with it for the build.

1 Like

If you haven’t been looking at them already, another keycap profile you might like is MTNU, from the same designer who did MT3. Similar shape but not as tall and with a more fine texture. Color choices are currently pretty limited but they are nice caps that might go well with one of your future builds.

Yeah, that was the other style I was looking at as well, just forgot to include them in that list I shared. I saw all of them. Again, didn’t find anything I liked or that was in stock. The only MTNU set I find that I really liked is the out of stock MTNU Modern Dolce set. The only place that even has them anymore is in Europe, Obloztky Industries. Looks like it’s a group buy and I’m not that crazy about keyboards to get involved in all that crap. If they’re not stock somewhere for a reasonable price, then I’m not getting them.

I love the light and the dark set equally. So clean, unique looking and I love how soft and subtle the accent colors are. But they’re $120ish US dollars (converted from Euros) and I’m not about to spend that kind of money on plastic keycaps! That’s IN SANE, haha. I reluctantly spent $70 on these Drop ones and thought that was crazy. We’ll see though. Those were the only ones I really thought looked amazing of ALL the sets I looked at to keep a white, silver, grey color scheme going.

Since you are looking for silencing, PBT MT3 might be adequate.

I have found that many tall keycaps actually accentuate sound, as they give more ‘room’ for echo.

However, this is not always the case. I find that PBT is often quieter than ABS, it can be thicker as well. The MT3 PBT keycaps can be pretty substantial.

The quietest keycaps for silent builds are often those cheap, thick PBT from AliExpress. Just PBT slabs, usually dye-subbed. But since you aren’t a big fan of Cherry-profile, then the MT3 dev/tty is probably the next best thing.

You will want to really stuff that Neo80 with whatever recommended dampening materials are available. Because I have found it to be somewhat of an echoey case.

The Neo80 is really good at bringing out the sound of the switches. Since it is a roomy case, you can probably dampen it pretty effectively, though.


Custom boards often feel ‘smoother’ than factory boards for the following reasons:

-hand-tuned (lubricated) switches
-aftermarket high-quality switch springs
-high-quality aftermarket lubed, hand-tuned stabilizers

Of these, the switch-lubing and stabilizer lubing are probably the most important.

You are likely going to have some difficulty getting the stabilizers right the first time. Fortunately, the Neo80 is the easiest board to disassemble and reassemble that I have ever seen. So it is a great board for a first-build.

Things that help in silencing are:
-hand-lubing the switches
-using bag-lubed aftermarket springs
-well-tuned stabilizers
-dampening materials.

You can see that there is overlap in what makes for smoothness, and what makes for silencing. Also, heavy dampening tends to go pretty well with gasket-mounts.

1 Like

Thank you for all of this! More great info and things to think about and to do once I get my keyboard.

Best

1 Like

Thanks, haha. I’ve always been like that. Research stuff to death instead of just jumping in. Usually it’s better, but sometimes it’s a hinderance to just doing something or having fun. I just didn’t want to spend all this money and ruin it or not know what I’m doing. If I’m going to do something, I almost always want to do it to the max or perfect.

So… um, haha. I got the keycaps in and they are NOT at all what Drop shows them as. They show bright white alphas, with very light grey almost silver modifiers and a bright, lighter colored red that’s almost salmon like.

In reality, they are vastly different and I’m returning them right away. VERY upset and disappointed in what I received vs what they show on their website. In reality, the alphas are a dirty almost brown tinged light grey, not even in the realm of white! The modifiers are just a straight up grey (and again, with a dirty almost brown tinge). And the accent color keys (esc and enter) are a darker dirty red. So I’m returning these and now have to start all over. I’m so pissed. And of course I’m out shipping both ways! They’re so different I almost want to call them out on false advertising. I’m out 15-20 bucks now for shipping both ways because they put false photos on their site to entice people to buy those keys. It’s really disappointing.

So now I don’t know what I’m going to do. I really want those GMK Modern Dolce Light keys, but they’re like 120-150 to the US. Or I could just get one of those amazing colored Domikey sets I mentioned. The Dasher, Atlantis, Single Chip, Blue Wave or Calm Depths. They would still work with my overall theme, but not as well as the MODO Light set. Ugghhhh, don’t know what to do now. Soooo pissed. Modern 1st world problems, huh, hahaha.

How unusual. I wonder what they sent you instead of dev/tty.

Domikey keycaps should work ok, I have a set. They can get discounted during sales.

I think that there are clones of MODO Light on AliExpress and elsewhere. While they lack the consistency and colour accuracy of the GMK originals, they tend to be a fairly thick PBT that is good for silencing.

2 Likes

Here is what they show on their website:

This is what I got (this is not my photo, it’s from someone else’s board, as I was not about to install all the keys just to show how bad the color is when this photo does it justice).

Not even close. The red accent Esc button is shown as a bright, light, almost salmon red. What they sent is a dull, darker, dirty red.

Then it shows bright white alpha keys. What they sent me was a dirty, brownish tinged light grey.

And then it shows a very clean light grey or silver for the modifiers. What they sent was just straight up regular grey (almost veering into dark grey), with again, a dirty tinge of brown.

I’m leaning either towards one of those Domikey sets I mentioned or now I’m back onto a clean solid color. Clean, simple, all black with white legends and a unique profile. I found some amazing looking Canon keycaps. Their a profile called CXA that looks right up my alley and I love how thin an less noticeable the legends are on the caps. So that from a distance they almost look like blank black. Very stylish and clean. They profile “looks” like one of the sculpted profiles ala SA, KSA, MTNU, etc. But it’s like a Cherry x SA combo. The key tops are a bit wider like a cherry, but then they’re dished out a bit like a sculpted set, and without being super tall. I think I’m leaning towards those the most now. Plus they’re reasonably priced and look really solid and classic on a silver board.

One thing I wish keycaps did differently was put smaller, thinner, more in the background legends on the caps. I feel that most legends distract you from the beauty of the shapes of the sculpted keycaps and the color scheme. We already know what key were pressing, there’s no need to shout it out. But at the same time, it is nice to be able to look down and see. I hate how they’re all so thick, large and obtrusive to the keycaps look. Plus lots of sets have SO many other legends on the key, making it cluttered and complicated looking. I’d make keycaps with small little legends with thin design fonts in the center or upper left corner. Or front/side printed.

1 Like

Yes, dev/tty is more of a warm beige + cream hard colours, as opposed to the more bright + desaturated + cool colour of something like MoDo Light.

If the keycaps were being advertised as looking more like Modo Light, that is misleading.

I first saw dev/tty in-person, so I always knew what I would be getting.

If looking for a non-Cherry MoDo Light, perhaps you would better enjoy MTNU MoDo Light:

As you’ve noticed, there are CX SA / AF SA keycaps available, which are very inexpensive. I find the keycap angle to be a bit odd, but many type on them just fine.

Regarding legends, I agree that they are often large. I wouldn’t mind something like a Tandy 1000 keyboard, but with smaller legends:

In any case, things could be worse. I remember when dev/tty R1 was selling aftermarket for 50-100% markup. Or higher. You were able to buy it complete, from a retailer, at retail price. So I think you should be able to return it if Drop’s photos were inaccurate.

There is enough diversity in CX SA / AF SA / fake SA keycaps on AliExpress that you may be able to find something you like, perhaps here:

https: //www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006903912894.html
https: //www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008777792391.html
https: //www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007862743401.html
https: //www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005540694282.html

(remove spaces)

You can search for other examples. However, most of them tend to be in ‘hard’ solid colours, which is why I mentioned MTNU MoDo Light, above. MTNU tends to run a lot of the high-end sought-after colourways.

2 Likes

Yeah, I’d love to order and see how amazing the MODO Light set looks like in person. Online, they both look fantastic and I’d love the dark or light set. But I’m not about to spend $150 or so on keycaps, that’s ridiculous. $80-90 is my absolute max I’ll spend. Even that feels silly. This is plastic keycaps we’re talking about. Not metal or titanium or carbon fiber like they’re priced, hahaha. These companies just make up prices and make people dance for it. I’m not into that To be real honest, I’d bet you I could barely tell a difference in feel and sound from a cheap Keychron set to a GMK or Signature Plastics set. Maybe a TINY difference, but not much. I feel like some of the keyboard people are crazy about trying to find such EXACT specific sounds and feels that it’s just silly and way over the top. But then again, I’ve never tried a cheap set compared to a top end set. I just feel like in other hobbies or sports, the difference between the top end and decent is much closer these days than 10, 20, 30 years ago.

As for CX SA caps and AF SA caps, I actually don’t know what you’re referring too. I tried looking it up and didn’t find anything.

And what is up with those Aliexpress keycaps? Why so cheap? Are they garbage, decent, good or great? And as someone who has never used Aliexpress and has preconceived notions of what it may or may not be, can you explain it to me? I feel like it’s a cheap possibly shady Chinese version of amazon or ebay? Is that correct, not correct, somewhat correct? I’m a curious person and love to learn, even if I’m wrong about something. Is it super safe, fairly safe, kind of shady, super shady? What are returns like with most of the sellers? Are you suggesting I look at some of the keycaps off of Aliexpress or more just showing them as an example?

And one other thing I was going to mention and then ask about was the MT3 keycaps size vs SA vs Cherry/OEM. So I’ve only ever used or seen in person; Cherry/OEM style mechanical keycaps. While I didn’t install the entire Drop set, I did take a few out and put them on my keyboard and look at them and finger them to see how they felt. One thing that JUMPS out to me right away is how small the tops of the keycaps are. Like really small compared to Cherry/OEM. The top, where your finger tips go. I do love the curved/scooped feeling, but they feel significantly smaller in surface area compared to a Cherry/OEM profile keycap. Oddly enough, I didn’t notice the height as much.

So do SA caps have a similar small top size or are they larger on top? KSA? MTNU?

And how close in surface area are they to a Cherry/OEM keycap top?

And if you know about any other keycaps, I’d love to hear a bit more about how they feel and how they compare in height, top surface area, etc.

These Canonkeys CXA profile caps look right up my alley. The top key square surface like a Cherry/OEM, but with the sculpting and curves of an SA. With a lower height. I also see some XDA profiles that “look” nice, but no idea how they feel or type? Anything you can add about profiles that would help me is much appreciated.

Thanks

2 Likes