Drop Alt Barebone

I thought this keyboard is pretty nice - Drop’s ALT keyboard

Pre order for $140.

However, they are also selling this other keyboard:

It goes for $180 and MX Blue switch is an additional $200.

Does anybody know why there is a $40 price differences? I see them as the same barebone keyboard. Very confusing price positioning.

The full keyboard comes with switches and keycaps, while the barebones has no keycaps or switches. They both have an option to get some XDA Canvas custom caps, but these are separate from the ones included with the full keyboard. At least this is my understanding.

Also, I hope it’s not really an additional $200 for Cherry MX Blues. :smiley:

1 Like

No it does not come with key cap and switches. You add those upon checkout.

So, it’s puzzling why it is $180 vs $140 (Barebone)

edit: ha ha … it was additional $20 for MX Blues, not $200.

Look at it again. The full keyboard comes with Halo True switches (which can be upgraded to Cherry MX blues for $20). It also comes with the gray keycaps they show in the photos. You can get XDA Canvas in addition for $65 (that’s a different keyset, which you can see in some of the later photos).

1 Like

I think you are right! It didn’t occur to me that the key caps in the picture is included… somehow, this lockdown is making me go crazy. But $40 for the PBT keycaps seems expensive. I forgot how much keycaps are these days.

Drop’s pricing can be very confusing to be sure. They are supposedly going to be rolling out some kind of upgrade to fix that

They also have had the high profile Alt on sale recently too.

“(formerly known as MassDrop)”

Ok, how much time needs to pass before this company realizes their name change was super dumb, a decision of some narcissistic schmuck with a gargantuan outsized ego who schmoozed his big hair and perfect suit to a nice payday?

If the name change was right, they wouldn’t be apologizing for it still.

Nobody I know refers to Drop as Drop. It’s still MassDrop and the company itself totally acknowledges this. Dance with the one who came with you, you dumb as shit hypetards.

I hope that VC money chokes you.

Been drinking, sorry. It’s off my chest now. Thanks for listening.


I hear ya. Changing their well-known trademarked name to a common word is one of the dumbest moves I’ve seen in the Valley. Things went downhill since the name change.


Or, on the other side, ok ok we got it, now stop reminding us :slight_smile:


It’s not just the keycaps, it’s the keycaps plus the switches for the added 40 which becomes 60 if you change the halo for the MX because Cherry are more expensive. My personal suggestion would be, unless you like the overall look of the fully built keyboard just go for barebone and use the saved money to buy better stabs and to hunt for switch deals online elsewhere; that’s what I’m considering doing myself although I’m not sure if I want to but from them anymore yet.

That is what I am considering too but one guy in Drop’s discussion forum said that he bought 3 ALTs and all 3 display some keys not registering. I think the PCB is not mature yet. That stopped me cold.

I’d say just faulty unit/unlucky people, the current drop SHIFT, CTRL, ALT have been through few iterations already at least two since the CTRL is the successor of the original K-TYPE by input club. I have the latter and it was iteration one, not a single issue with it and I have it for quite few years and I flashed it several times. Of course things gets slightly more complicated if like me you aren’t in the States so that possible returns might be more difficult.

I might have mentioned this already, but with my CTRL I have to use USB 3.0 if I want to have the lights on and not flicker to some degree. No extension cables I have tried have prevented it, either. Everything else works reliably - just the lighting is a little weird on 2.0.

1 Like

I wonder if the k-type has the same issue… after all, although low consumption, it’s still a lot of leds :slight_smile:

No clue - it is a different pcb, so hard to say. I haven’t heard anything about it with the Ktype.

The USB 3 spec allows for more current than USB 2. No cable is going to make a difference, it sounds like you simply can’t get enough power out of a USB 2 port. It might work if you plugged it into a powered hub.

Indeed - I should have been more specific. Even when using a USB 3.0 connection, adding any kind of extension cable (even one labeled for 3.0) gives the same result as using 2.0 - on the other hand, using a super long single cable is just fine on 3.0.

*Edit - when I say any, I mean any I have tried. My ext. cables might suck.