+1 for watching a bunch of YouTube videos, there are so many out there now you can probably get a general idea of how things will sounds with at least similar components to what you’re looking at
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I have a lot of the same preferences as you stated when it comes to MX switches (although I do like them heavy) and so I would second any of the click bar switches mentioned above.
I would also highly recommend ruling out Topre, as well as some of the after market runner domes that are available now. Much harder to find “testing” solutions for but if you want to really feel the activation its hard to beat the oneness with cup rubber.
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As far as lubing clicky switches goes you only want to lube the springs, either with the donut dip method or the bag lube method. As far as screwing up the lubing on other parts of a switch, definitely err on the side of less. Reopening switches is annoying, but its way easier to add more lube than it is to remove too much.
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I can’t argue with any of the advice above; it’s all good, but I wanted to add two bits of info that took me a year to learn.
The first is that it is super easy and cheap (under $10 for the whole keyboard) to swap out the springs in MX switches to give the switch an entirely different feeling.
The second is that with a hotswap board, it’s easy and fun to try out new switches and a LOT cheaper than buying new keycaps or keyboards. With the exception of a few switches (your Holy Pandas, Zealios, etc), you can swap all the switches on a 60% or 65% keyboard for about $50-60 (edit: or less if you go with common switches like Gateron Yellow).
Basically, don’t sweat the switches. It’s a lot less stressful to pick switches that you think you’ll enjoy for a few months rather than choosing switches you plan to use for life.
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Hoo boi did you give me some goodies to dissect and soak in! I really appreciate this a ton! Had a ton to do today and just now getting a chance to fully go through all of this. (Also about to get to your PM I glanced and holy <3 )
See this is exactly why I wanted some opinions lol. I figured there was going to be some sort of difference in how the switches are made up anatomically too and that explains it. I saw another comment below about changing out springs for different feels even in cheap switches so this gives me some ideas for sure.
So this sounds like something I would like, and if I gather from what you’re saying with the whole comment, it would be really solid for what I want if I lube the springs on the click-bar switches?
Originally I was planning to build a TKL style because that’s what I currently use and am comfortable with, but I realize how much I don’t use the rest of the keys. Literally only the delete key and arrow keys lol. My only concern is having a keeb with a weight to it. I’m really liking the thought of having one of the 60% cases with the plate underneath that seems to add some weight to it in my opinion, but I may be wrong.
This actually pushes me to another thing is I was really wanting to build a macro pad anyways so that would be really dope to go ahead and get one and use it as my switch tester so I’m going to look into that and also the others you recommended for a possibly less expensive and quicker option!
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Thanks for this! I’ll definitely be doing some deep dive on videos for lubing before I try to do it myself on this build. Is it hard to get the lube off? For some reason I expected you would just need to use some water lol.
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After I made this post I saw some peoples benches and man do I plan on collecting switches and doing swaps/builds! If this build goes ok I really want to do a build for a work keyboard and will probably use some quieter linear switches for that. I’ll be testing them on my main keyboard for a bit just to make sure I really enjoy what I get.
I imagine it depends on the type of lube, but I used isopropyl and a cotton swab to remove krytox 205g0. Hot water and soap would probably work, but then you have to wait for things to dry. Taeha Types has a good video on lubing mx switches, that was kind of my starting point for switch lubing info.
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He’s what brought me to this site lol. I started his lube video yesterday but got caught up with something at work so I need to go back and actually watch it to learn what needs to be done.
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Yes. Agreed with @huhsh that pretty much just the springs need lube in clickies, though that’s less of a hard rule with the click bar switches as opposed to the jackets - getting lube on those stops them from clicking, and can also make them feel weird.
As @ListlessLlama pointed out, springs alone can change the whole feel of a keyboard, and different springs will be more or less prone to ping and/or rattle - though most if not all of that can be taken care of with lube.
This is definitely a thing - a very popular thing, in fact. Just about every new custom in the past few years has had an option for a weight, usually brass. Even cheaper keebs will use steel or lead weights inside to keep it planted on the desk.
If you use the delete and arrow keys a lot, the myriad of layouts in the 60% - 65% range are worth a look. A handful of 60% keebs have the option of an arrow cluster squeezed in:
GK64
Then there’s this layout, mostly associated with one or two keebs; it’s a 60% plus arrows, Ins, and Del:
Leopold FC660 series
With another two to three keys is the “standard” 65% layout:
KBD67 lite
65% are pretty much my personal fave, and are really popular right now - which means there are a bunch to choose from. There are more variations on the theme than those three above, but that’s a general look at what’s available in the size range.
I totally encourage you to do this! There are a nice handful of macro pad kits out there, as well as a few different ways of making them hot-swappable if they aren’t otherwise designed for it.
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When you say jackets are you referring to the casings or is that a whole other switch?
I think 65% after some research and with what you said is what I’m going to go for! I don’t use the arrows a ton but I do coding and that’s when I tend to use the arrows and delete key. The only keys it’s really missing that I use are the tilda and the F12 key (dev tools shortcut) but that’s programmable on the right side or I can just use a macro pad.
Yeah I think with what I’m wanting to do this is 100% going to have to happen. Also want to build a num pad at some point, but that’s not necessary for the moment, it would barely get used lol.
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The “jacket” is a kind of plastic sleeve that gets slammed into the bottom housing to make the click; here’s a .gif that shows one in action - it’s the white part in the middle:
The bendy part on the left is the “leaf” - its main function is as one of the pair of contacts that make the switch function, but it also plays a role in the tactile character of the switch.
The sloped bits of the stem (in this case the sloped bits of the jacket) that interact with the leaf are generally referred to as “legs” or “tactile legs” for non-linears. The shape of that slope also plays a large role in the feeling of an MX-style switch.
Edit: Heh, what that .gif doesn’t show is how the jacket ricochets and rattles on the down-stroke. The animation shows what actually happens when you lube a jacketed stem; the jacket moves downward more slowly, and just comes to rest at the bottom on a cushion of lube, making little to no noise.
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all good advice.
- definitely suggest the Kailh click bar switches
- do you like heavier or lighter switches? 50-65gr on the lighter side 80ish on the heavier/stiffer side (more effort)
- if you DON’T want to assemble your 1st board the GK boards are decent hotswap off the shelf boards. drop.com also has a handful of hotswap boards but are a bit more pricey.
- if you want LOUD, steel plate. (period). no flex but very “pingy” (spring “ring”) which, lubing the spring would dampen.
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Alright what’s everyone’s opinions on KP Republic? I’ve been looking at different vendors and I found a DNA 65% case I like a good bit for a cheaper first build. I haven’t decided on switches yet until @Deadeye hits me with the testers he’s sending my way, and my test kit comes in Friday with 63 other switches as well, but from recommendations from him, most likely I’m going something click-bar. The case also seems to come with a brass plate I think which I was wanting to go with on my first build.
Is there anything crucial I’m missing out getting this kit, or something that’s going to handicap me heavily?
Also I’m sure I think I know the answer, but if I’m ordering keycaps, I assume order from Drop unless the deal is much better elsewhere so I can get points on the site? I’m looking at getting the Matcha Japanese Plus set even if I don’t use them on this build (most likely will at first at least), and just wanted to double check.
The only thing I can think of is the “North-facing” LED positioning; this has the chunkier part of the switch towards you, which can interfere with some shorter caps including GMK’s. Not all switches will interfere with said caps; stuff with a “long pole” or shorter travel won’t, and neither will any of the Kailh BOX switches with the circular stem shroud, for example. If you use medium to tall caps it’s not a concern at all, but it is a potential limitation to be aware of.
As for Drop (whom we sometimes affectionately call Dorp), they are indeed a fine place to get keycaps, and they do have that new loyalty program thing going on - but if I can get the same set or dodad from a smaller vendor, I tend to opt for that.
As a side note - it’s been exactly one year today since I threw a little DORP sticker giveaway.
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Lmao this is fantastic x,D
If I understand correctly, I can use any switch, but if I use standard stem switches, I have to use higher profile caps or ones with the stem shrouds to not have those problems?
Gotcha on the drop vs others! That settles that then.
Any MX-based switch will fit the board, yes. Taller caps will be sure to not interfere.
It’s mostly about the housing shape with the switches; it’s just those circular stem shrouds that are easy to identify by sight. Those switches have a more tapered housing that avoids the issue. Examples include Silent Box Brown and Box Cream.
The ones with the square stem shrouds will still interfere, though, like Box White or Box Navy.
“Long pole” and other shorter travel switches are ones where the inside part of the stem is longer, so it doesn’t go down as far - that also avoids the interference but is less obvious by sight. If you push the stem all the way down and the top of it sits slightly above the housing, it’s a short travel switch and won’t interfere. Examples include Holy Pandas, Ink Yellows, and all of Gazzew’s switches.
They are kind of hard to find but there are spacing washers you can use if you get stuck with a set of switches and caps that interfere.
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I’m real happy I looked up reviews for that kit and didn’t order it then because the Box Navy’s are what I’m thinking I may like from what you described in your message lol. Also the kit was actual shit with poor build quality overall and I would have screwed myself.
I’m thinking of this IDOBAO ID80 CRYSTAL GASKET BAREBONES KEYBOARD since I’m kind of digging the transparent look.
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There we go - shouldn’t be any issues with that one. Great looking board, too.
When buying a keyset, you’ll want to make sure it’s one with compatibility for 75% layouts, including a shorter right shift. That support is more and more common these days, but some sets still only support “traditional” layouts.
“104 key” sets will not include the short shift, for example - lots of sets on Drop do, though. If in doubt post or send a link of a set you’re considering and I or someone else will let you know if it will cover the ID80.
A few examples; GMK, MT3, IFK, and newer Akko sets are ones that pretty reliably have compatibility; Tai-Hao is hit and miss, Ducky makes good caps but no 1.75u shift keys.
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Awesome! Glad to know this one isn’t a dud lmao. I think I actually plan on ordering an artisan style anyways for that right shift so that shouldn’t be too big a deal. I don’t use the right shift so figured I’d decorate it instead xD I need to watch some videos on sizing too. I kind of understand what you mean by the u sizing but not enough to know what goes with what style layout, but that’ll come in time with learning for sure.
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