I don’t see a PCB image on the Tet page, but it’s safe to assume you need PCB mount stabilizers instead of the plate mount ones you have specced. That’s usually the case with customs. Cherry PCB mount clip-ins will work, as you mention. You could also try TX stabs; I’ve had good luck with them (rev 3). If you’re up for it, I’m sure you could clip and/or lube yourself. I’ve found TX to be forgiving.
I’d second the recommendation for TX stabilizers - rev 3 is great, and I think the latest one “AP” is even better - same theory, just developed a little more and with softer inserts. I’m pretty bad at tuning stabs and I’ve found the TX AP ones plenty forgiving. TX are one of a few brands that don’t need “clipping” - they just omit the little bits that most people clip-off these days.
TX does offer stabs for 1.2mm PCBs - alternatively you could get 1.6mm ones compatible with standard PCBs and use the shims d3L7r0n mentioned; here’s an example of those.
I use just a brushing of 205g0 inside the housings and then dielectric dip the wire and brush around the bend. Syringe of dielectric to add a little in the housings after installation if there is any ticking. It’s basically Alex Otos method, I believe, though he may no longer use dielectric. Krytox on the wires is too thick for me, and it can get messy, but it’s basically teflon and can’t be washed off without a crazy solvent. You can deal with a tiny bit on you but it requires a large amount of caution. Both aspects lead to my dielectric preference. Someone recommended that Loctite’s dielectric doesn’t separate like Permatex’s does. That would be my recommendation.
You should also take a look at the wire and make sure it’s straight. Mostly matters for the spacebar. There are tools to help bend if not, or people use pliers. I have the Geonworks tool, but I actually haven’t had to use it yet. The vid explains this too.
That said, the APs may not need much of anything. Maybe someone who’s used them can comment. The Rev 3 TX (the previous model) only need minimal amounts; I think some do less than I do to them.
Already lots of great advice here about stab tuning - I don’t think I’d have anything to add that isn’t trivial. I use a thicker grease called Nyogel on my wires, but dielectric is more forgiving - both to your wallet and the responsiveness of your stabs.
I use nothing but superlube only for stabs, especially with the TX. Everything else is just not long-term sufficient. While not as critical in a Hotswap board, it just avoids a lot of frustration potential, especially if you’re starting out.
What I noticed works wonders for me is using a syringe with a 1mm diameter needle and getting the stabilizers lubed after install. Keeps your fingers clean and is works good to dose the lube. And absolutely skip anything like the bs Holeee Mod stuff. Extremely annoying to do and it doesn’t hold up long either. Another reason for superlube over Krytox, just holds up way more consistently.