Moving back to a much more sane and normal style of review, I couldn’t help but finally get around to covering at least one of the switches that up and coming switch designer PuNkShoO has put out over the last few years. Not straying away from the cutting edge, either, this week I take a look into the tactile frankenswitch-inspired Gateron Root Beer Floats. Are these really the tactile sibling to his successful Gateron Cream Soda switches?
Article: Gateron Root Beer Float Switch Review — ThereminGoat's Switches
Scorecard Repository: GitHub - ThereminGoat/switch-scores: PDF Repository of switch score sheets.
Force Curve Repository: GitHub - ThereminGoat/force-curves: PDF and Data Repository of switch force curves.
As always, thank you all for the continued support both in readership and on my various social media platforms. While regular readers do come around every now and then to check the website, it’s the posts where you’re reading this now that people often find their way to the reviews for the first time and (hopefully) become regular readers in the process. The likes, comments, replies, etc. are all a big part in what has helped grow the website and my ability to hoard switches over the past few years!
Darn it… why can’t Gateron solve the wobble issue??!
As always, I appreciate the review
I think my favorite thing about your reviews alongside the useful comparisons of visual data are all the contextual background details. On that note, this is one of my favorite reviews yet. As a switch nerd especially interested in that sort of thing, I feel like a kid at a dessert buffet.
As someone with a background in visual art and printing with training in color theory, I think you’re absolutely right about the more yellowish tint to the top housings. No trick, you’re totally seeing that. Also, fantastic photos as usual - you capture a wealth of detail with them.
Re: the weird crunch on a small but significant portion of the switches that goes away after opening to check;
I’ve run into something that sounds like this, and my theory is that it’s the end of a spring coil that hasn’t completely settled / seated for whatever reason.
Aside from opening the switch (effectively re-setting the seating of the spring), another thing that got rid of the crunch for me is quickly releasing the stem from a fully-depressed state - say, sliding a tool or fingernail off the edge - allowing it to snap-up. I’ve found that doing this a few times can also re-seat the spring (or accomplish something else if my guess is wrong) and sometimes address the crunch - especially in cases where it exists as an outlier in a larger group of switches.