Thank you for your help and tips.
I afraid that I don’t feel confident enough yet to mess with the switches (open them, change springs, etc) and honestly, I don’t think I will ever do. I will go with a stock option or if you know someone (online store or something) that mods switches for customers, please, let me know.
Just to be clear, the Clickiez are a 3-in-1 switch; by default they are clicky, but they can also be tactile or linear, and they are by far most tactile in “tactile mode.”
But I’m sure you’re right that other options might be better for you, especially if you’d rather not be opening switches.
Sure. There are probably switch-modding services in the EU. Most “lubing services” will easily be able to lube/change springs.
[Changing springs is much easier than other aspects of switch modding, all you really need is a switch opener.]
For your specific needs, it might be a good idea to consult Discord. The various mechanical keyboard channels on there are home to some very esoteric knowledge. There will be people who know immediately what the most top-heavy, resistant tactile switches are.
I’m sure if you ask nice, there are even folks on here that will take care of this kind of stuff as well (likely for cheap or just the price of shipping)…
I have two break-in machines, Geon films, and more Krytox GPL205g0 & GPL105 than is practical. I also have Kenitic Labs x Chemours Carbon GS1 and GS2 lubes which also work well in linear and tactile switches
I also have dry lube options as well, such as RO-59 (requires additional cure time per layer), DuPont Ceramic Boron Nitride, and 100% Pure PTFE powder.
I am in located in USA though, so shipping prices could be awful…
Guys, thank you so much. All this is really helpful, because I am completely “green” in the hobby and I am just starting learning the ropes.
Discord is the big unknown for me. I do not even know where from to start 
so, I will not venture that path (for the moment).
I am currently refursbishing my Keychron Q2 preparing for a new professional project that will demand hours upon hours of typing. So, I installed the acoustic upgrade kit (two of my stabilizers broke in the process, and need to replace them ASAP), waiting for an MT3 keycap kit to arrive from Drop, and I feel like I am in need of new switches. Thus, the current thread
Would you guys recommend the Cherry MX Clears? On paper, they seem to be the heaviest switches of all.
@d3L7r0n Thank you for the offer, pal. Shipping is not that bad, custom fees can get ugly, but when it comes to non-commercial parcels, custom fees don’t apply.
The WS x Haimu Heavy Tactiles are available on Amazon (Wuque Studios is also Meletrix)
which I know you also mentioned about being a selling feature. Amazon’s specs look off, so here are the specs from Divinikey’s site:
I am not sure if Cherry MX Clears would be the ideal choice for you.
If I understand correctly, one of your goals is to avoid accidental key-presses. You say that you are an extremely heavy typist, and are likely to accidentally actuate keys.
Cherry MX Clear has a heavy spring, but most of that weight is at the very bottom. It is some kind of non-linear spring, I believe. That means that the weight at the top is lower [perhaps around 50 - 60 G on actuation], whereas the weight near the bottom is much higher [perhaps up to 80 G or beyond.]
The purpose of this weight curve was to improve tactile ergonomics. Cherry seemed to believe that people would be less likely to bottom-out the switch, if a lot of weight and pushback was concentrated at the bottom. While the top weight was not too unreasonable.
What this means for you is that the top-weight might not be that high. MX Clear is only a ‘medium-bump’ tactile, at most, by today’s standards. With the Cherry pre-travel, reasonable weight at the top, and a medium bump, it won’t be too resistant to accidental keypresses. At least in your case.
I think it would be better to have a switch that is more resistant at the top, which doesn’t instantly dip into pre-travel. This would be something like the Holy Panda, Holy Boba, or better yet, the Zealio V2. Much of the ‘resistance’ of the MX Clear comes from spring weight, and that resistance could be better for you in a top-heavy switch. So Zealio V2 or Kangaroo Ink should be better in this regard than MX Clear.
[MX Clear may be ‘heavy’ compared with MX Brown, but it is still a relatively gentle switch. That being said, it’s worth buying a sample package of 10 to see if they work for you.]
And yes, I think someone here could probably put some huge springs into a Holy Panda or something, for you. U4T doesn’t even need lube, so bag-lubed 80 G springs or some monster 22mm springs in a U4T might work.
Otherwise, US-based professional lubing outfits can probably ship to Europe, although they may be overshooting your needs somewhat since you won’t need much lubing.
@HungerMechanic thank you for your very insightful comments. So, your suggested solution to my “problem” would be Bobas U4T with 80 G springs?
@d3L7r0n thank you for the suggestion. I had no idea these switches existed
The thing that makes the Cherry MX Clear have a “progressive” force curve is that its spring is short and stiff. You can see it is the shortest of Cherry’s springs:
There’s no need for any nonlinearity: it’s just Hooke’s law. The overall steepness of the force curve comes from the stiffness of the spring; Clears have a stiff spring so their curve is steep, i.e. the bottom out force is a lot more than the activation force. The initial force to start pressing the key comes from how much the spring is compressed (preloaded) inside the switch. If the spring is not compressed at all the initial force would be zero, says Hooke. Preloading the spring moves the whole force curve higher, so greater force throughout the travel. Clears have short springs, so relatively little preload, and lower starting force.
Well, I haven’t experimented with heavy-tactiles too much. Especially super-heavy tactiles.
But I have used Zealio V2, and I have assembled Holy Bobas and U4T.
I know from experience that you can use different spring weights in the Boba housing [which is used for U4T and Holy Boba]. The Holy Boba [Halo True stem in Boba] has hefty tactility. So does Zealio V2, and to a lesser extent U4T.
U4T is a fairly tactile switch, not the most tactile though. But it is easy to acquire and modify. I am conjecturing that you can run heavy springs in them.
Whether it is Zealio V2, U4T, or a similar switch like Holy Boba, Chosfox Voyager, or MMD Princess, any of them should be harder to depress than a regular MX tactile, if outfitted with a heavy spring.
I earlier mentioned the Haimu WS Heavy Tactile.
They are more resistant at the top than the average MX switch. So I similarly conjecture that with some heavy springs, it should be more resistant for you. [Quite frankly, a simple Durock T1 with a heavy 22mm spring should be a beast to depress.]
So if you can get ahold of a few Haimu WS Heavy Tactiles affordably, you should try them out in stock form. If they are not punchy enough for you, it may be possible at that point to substitute even heavier 22mm springs for the stock ones. That should create a very high level of initial resistance.
Okay, I checked on switchmodders, and they suggest using heavy 18, 20, or 22mm springs.
They said the Haimu WS Heavy Tactile already uses heavy springs. So it might be possible to use an even-heavier single-stage 22mm spring, say 80 G, in this switch.
Long springs [like 16 - 22mm] have a higher weight at the top than regular 15mm springs. So a heavy tactile bump and long springs may be the best you can do, as in an enhanced Haimu WS Heavy Tactile. There may be some exotic ‘franken-switch’ out there that is super-hard to depress, but I do not know of it yet.
UPDATE:
The WS Heavy tactile are apparently good candidates.
You can get springs in EU from keygem.com
Alexotos above has a listing of spring vendors, as well.
Since the OP has been typing on Glorious Pandas, which have a 67 G bottom-out, then 18 - 22mm replacement springs in the range of 80-85 G might be a good place to start.
Guys, I am at loss for words for your kindness and huge help! This must be the best online community I 've ever been part of. Thank you so much!
@HungerMechanic I will do as you suggested. I will get the Haimu WS Heavy Tactile and work my way from there. Do you suggest to try them first or switch their spring from the beginning? Also, would you suggest lubing the switches and the springs too?
I definitely suggest trying the Haimu WS Heavy Tactile first, before any modifications.
It is likely to be a little heavier at the top than the GPs you are accustomed to.
However, if the stock Haimu is not strong enough at the top, this warrants installation of a heavier aftermarket (e.g. 22mm) spring.
It is definitely worthwhile and important to lube the springs. No matter what the switch, I would almost never go without lubing the springs. Fortunately, this can be done easily through the practice of ‘bag-lubing.’ Although, if you are sure you are going to use a particular switch, you can put the time in and lube ‘donuts’ with a paintbrush manually at the ends of each spring, which works well. Or other manual methods.
As for lubing the switch itself, this will have the benefit of giving a deeper sound [if using 3204 or 205g0]. From a functional perspective, however, it is not necessary. The Haimu WS Heavy Tactile is already a strong switch, so it doesn’t need lube to function. Especially if you use a heavier 80-85 G spring, it will not need any help functioning.
Opening switches and inserting springs is easy, as is bag-lubing. You can find tutorials on Youtube, or advice here. You just want to make sure that you are at least putting lubed springs inside the final switches you are using. [You do not need to lube springs if you are just testing, although it helps.]
BTW, I recently also learned that the Ajazz Kiwi switches are also very top-heavy.
See the review here for more details:
They may be candidates as well, although the WS Heavy Tactile may be cheaper and more available in some localities.
Following all the great advice I got in this thread, I went on and bought the Haimu WS Heavy Tactiles, 85g springs and a switch opener -and lube of course. Well… I ended up re-springing my original Glorious Pandas, since I found Haimu WS’s tactility and bump less to my liking when compared to the GPs, and I have to say that now my keyboard feels exactly -ok almost- how it should. And the sound -though it was not a priority for me- is also a deep, full bodied thock -I use the a Keychron Q2 with the sound upgrade kit and some extra foam, and PBT MT3 keycaps, in particular the Serika set.
Thank you all guys for helping me build it.
