Saw a post that said something about making a direct connection with solder. Is this board recoverable after both solder pads have been ripped off? I don’t know anything about this
I have no clue where to solder but it’s definitly recoverable, you just need solder iron and glue (to hold the socket).
Thank you. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction as far as where to make my solder connections
When that happened to mine (only on one side) I soldered the metal hotswap arm to the diode. Connected with a wire. Hotglue it in place and then determine which side of the diode (marked ND77) goes to which hotswap arm.
Thank you for the response. How would I determine which side to connect the arms to?
I would use two sets of tweezers to connect them at the same time. Open up via or switchhitter app and test to see if it registers. You won’t break anything by bridging the wrong connections.
Also, you might try superglue for the socket. Looks like a nice smooth surface that might hold well with superglue.
Typically the black stripe on the diode indicates the cathode (where the electricity comes out). On QMK boards the diodes usually have the anode (not the black striped end) of the diode attached to the row pin of the switch, I’m not sure how standard that is or if it applies to your keyboard. A multimeter with continuity tester mode is very helpful for determining where to add jumper wires. What you want to do is connect one side of your hotswap socket (the “row” side) to the anode of the diode that would normally have a trace connecting it to the pad that that side of the socket was connected to. The other side of the hotswap socket (the “column” side) should be connected to its column by a short segment of wire to the “column” side of the hotswap sockets of the switch on either side of it (above and below in the same column). And as others have mentioned, reinforce it with glue. Probably good to test it before you glue it in place.
A good habit to avoid that is to support the socket from behind, that way you minimize the risk of popping a socket off, it’s tedious, but it’s less tedious than jumping the sockets.
good lord. does it actually work?
surprisingly enough it does.
dont know if op’s board is as bad as mine but no amount of support was gonna ofset the horrible factory soldering. not to discount your advice which absolutely should be followed with any hotswap board. now i always add additional solder before any switches are inserted.