Are you sure about that? I was pretty sure that the breakout PCB footprint was identical and they just have different components soldered on depending on whether it’s a hybrid or classic.
1 Like
Right. I looked over the earlier posts, I think. But, like methol, I wonder if a clear, and recent confirmation before purchase is possible.
I guess I’m trying to figure out a solution - the programmability the yang usb-c offers is pretty essential for me (the usb-c compatibility less so, but still nice).
I fit the usb-c yang controller in the pro2 case with some sanding. Not much, but a bit. Basically I’m trying to ascertain if the Norbauer pro 2 heavy grail case will have a just slightly wider usb port for than the native pro 2 case’s usb-mini port cutout. This difference wouldn’t even have to be intentional, but simply be a side-effect of the production process (metal instead of plastic, the powder coat finishing, etc.). Being somewhat familiar with powder coating, for instance, I might guess, if anything, that the fit would be tighter.
Thus if there really is no chance the heavy grail pro 2 case would accommodate a usb-c port, then I would have 2 options (it seems, let me know if there are more!)
- desolder the ubs-c port from yang controller, replace with usb-mini, use yang controller in heavy grail pro 2
- buy a new, mini-usb controller (hasu or yang) for heavy grail pro 2
- I would note that afaik though pro 3 series is programmable, it is not fully programmable, from what I have read/seen. Please correct me if I’m mistaken!
Right now it seems if one wants full programmability + heavy grail, the only option is: heavy grail pro 2 case, min-usb hasu or yang controller. Full programmability + heavy grail + usb-c is not possible. Is this correct?
I would simply hope to know in advance in order to have an estimate of what else I would have to order, and thus total expected cost involved in getting the heavy grail to fit my (admittedly narrow!) preferences.
My bad, I was unaware of the pro 3/classic version!
I mean you could sand/dremel a heavy grail…
For real though I’ve recently thought about drilling a case to fit two 4 pin lemo jacks. One input and one out for my numpad. And then using some sort of liquid rubber to protect and make sure the case is well sealed where I drill.
Would be too late in the piece for this round but any possibility of a yellow colourway if you run these again, as an ode how most white hhkbs end up?
2 Likes
has anyone pointed out the crooked keys on the bottom picture? Is this an issue you have resolved?
Is that really natural colour change? Looks so uniform
The Veracity photo was taken with an early plate iteration that was actually 3D printed. I’m not seeing that issue on my latest injection molded plates, which was I used in photographing the other housings.
3 Likes
+1 for yellow!
Thanks for clarifying. Following from that:
-
does it imply that one could keep the stock bluetooth/mapping controller functionality of HHKB Hybrid?
-
is there a solid lithium battery mod that could be utilised in that setup as a replacement for AAs?
I don’t know if this has already been asked about this because I cannot find anything that would say otherwise, but what is the angle on this expected to be?
I really love that Norbauer cases come in very shallow angles because its something that has always been quite nice to use for me with topre, and this seems to have a rather high angle compared to the rest of the Norbauer lineup.
Like the Heavy-6 and FC660C, the Heavy Grail is the same as the angle as the keyboard itself (the HHKB in this case) without its flip-out feet deployed. I’ll provide a technical drawing in the GB page with specific numbers. It’s on my list of things to do today. 
3 Likes
Ah that makes sense, I kinda forgot that the HHKB has such a high angle compared to that of the Leopold and Realforce series’
We gotta stop adding to the to-do list so we can get the GB sooner D: lol
8 Likes
Haha. Yesprz.
6 Likes
nice
1 Like
I’m probably not the only one who’s going to buy a new HHKB just for this. Is there any advantage of the Pro Classic/HHKB 3 to the HHKB Pro 2? I have the Hybrid right now so I know all the advantages you get in build quality with the newer HHKBs, but obviously with a replacement housing that’s unnecessary. So, it sounds like it would be cost efficient to just buy a HHKB Pro 2 for this, unless there are advantages that I can’t think of. Can anyone think of anything?
I think cost might depend on where you are. A Classic in the US is $211 + tax directly from Fujitsu. You’d have to find someone selling their used Pro 2, which is a cost in time, especially if there is anything wrong with it. Unless you can find a Pro 2 for cheap, I don’t think it is worth the effort over the Classic. Since you’re used to the Hybrid, I actually suggest the Classic if only because it will be more familiar to you. Pro 2 domes are older and thus feel different than fresh new domes.
1 Like
Thanks, good point. It’s just a bit annoying that there’s no HHKB Classic Type S. I don’t actually care about sound, I just prefer the feel with the dampeners, as funny as that might sound. So I’m leaning towards getting a Pro 2 Type S, even if it costs me more than a Classic.
I’m up in the air myself honestly, the advantage of USB-C is pretty awesome. I own both a Pro 2 and a Hybrid Type-S, and using mini USB on my Pro 2 is always a bummer (and another cable to have on the desk).
I’m currently using a Yang controller in my HHKB Pro 2 literally just to get Windows media controls, but I know from my Hybrid you can remap that on the function layer for Windows with the reprogram utility. And knowing that you can achieve the same on the classic with a little bit of tuning, i’m tempted myself to opt for the Pro Classic version of the case and get a new board 
1 Like