What’s the consensus on these new 3305 sockets?
Never was able to purchase them 
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Mouser has over 15k in stock, but uh… the price! Have mercy!
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Got around to building my buddy’s Monarch. The board is pretty sick. Really enjoyed putting it together and how the board/switches ended up feeling. Here’s a typing test cut from the stream vod:
Monarch + Brass Plate + KineticLabs Salmon Tactiles Typing Test ASMR - YouTube
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Oof! That’s even more than the Holtites.
@Manofinterests I know this was a jest post but was your idea from a while back.
@Deadeye hooked me up with a Keebtalk decal I use on my tool holder. It could be made into a wrap but would be very small. For yours I would recommend a decal like your parts tray but each their own.
Wrap in heat shrink 1" or 3/4" if willing to stretch it out a little bit. (If someone needs the clear heat shrink let me know I have like 3 ft I will never use can send some in a regular envelope).
Other then looking cool it helps me to always know I am holding in the right orientation.
Last night did the Kailh one, thanks to @extra_fox for recommending using the hot air station for shrink wrap works like a charm. Much better then lighter which can char things.
https://www.keebtalk.com/t/hot-air-soldering-station-recommendations/14399/3?u=dave
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Hey, all!
I’ve been updating my website over the past week or so, including some new content and a bit more polishing. In addition to some refinement in the scaling behavior and some other minor style adjustments, I’ve added a few sound tests and three new frankenswitch recipes to the Switch Kitchen:
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Baby Wipe - An UHMWPE linear with plenty of cushion.
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Dragonfrog - A poppy tactile with a crisp, moderate top-bump.
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Unholy True - A specific variant of the Unholy Panda that’s a very bouncy, fast-curve, speed linear.
I’ll be adding these to the Funky Frankenswitches thread as well in the next day or so, but if you’d like to take a look now, you can follow the links above. Cheers!
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I didn’t know you had a site! There’s some great stuff going on there. I’ll look forward to some reading.
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Dude, those Unholy True’s are a for sure must try. I’m definitely going to give those a whirl.
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Thanks!
I think it’s only been live a couple months - I try to update it in some way at least once a week, and I have a few articles currently in the pipeline.
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I still need to build my “first” keyboard. I bought the tofu 65 to build as my first custom keyboard but I put off buying the case for so long I’ve built 5 other boards already >.>
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Testing out different ways to apply case foam. You know, for science!
I found this shelf liner at Target that has these tiny square perforations. After way too long, I now have hundreds of identical and super squishy foam niblets.
I had an aluminum low profile case lying around so thought that would be a good use case.
I added a non modded part of shelf liner in the battery cutout.
The tough part was finding the correct amount of foam niblets I needed so I didn’t overstuff the case. Surprisingly, I was able to add a lot more than I thought I’d be able to since the foam squeezes and can fill the gaps around the object it’s coming in contact with.
It’s a bit too muted now? Like you’re typing on a huge stack of folded towels or something. It almost turned my linears silent. I’m going to try experimenting with different foam material and niblet sizes, but overall super happy with how it turned out.
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Cool. Makes me wonder how a bed of PC or wood niblets may sound.
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wonderland in HR lubrigante in the wild! 
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This shelf liner is super interesting. I ordered one roll off the Seattle-based shopping site and they sent be 6 instead of one. So bank error in my favor!
I like this technique and I feel like it would do a good job of making some cheap plastic cases sound better. Do you think it’s better than using the same liner except in flat sheet form?
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Both have their use cases for sure. I put my thinking cap on and tried to discern what part of the overall “melody” is case noise actually contributing to and how.
- Reverb – sound generated from the keypress resonating down through the case and into the tying surface.
- Air Gap – the open air space inside the case that allows sound waves to concentrate and amplify it’s overall decibel level.
I’m thinking flat sheet foam is best for remediating reverb and reducing sound transfer between the PCB and case.
In contrast, I think these foam niblets do an amazing job in disrupting how the sound travels in open air by either absorbing the waves all together or deflecting them at right angles. I think the ideal material would be something with the density of sorbothane but cut into triangles.
This is what comes to mind …
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Was thinking about the nibblets and the tape mod. A while back didn’t you have these little silicone or rubber balls you but in switches? I wonder how a case full of those and the tape mod would sound
A modest but versatile workhorse keeb for my dad.
I sent him a tester with a dozen or so switches, mostly tactiles on the mild end since that’s what he was familiar with. Out of those, he picked TTC Gold Brown v3’s, which I happened to have a box of.
Stock, this unbranded oem equivalent of a Rakk Lam-Ang Pro sounds pretty rough with these switches, so it’s time for some acoustic modding. Unlike the branded one, these don’t come with any pre-installed.
Wew lawd, those are ping-y! Time to lube some springs.
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