So I’ve decided I want to make my first custom keyboard! I’ve used a corsair k70 for many years now with MX brown switches. I’ve been researching for the past few weeks on making a keyboard and what I need in order to make it. I wanted to ask and see and make sure I was getting the right things and to make sure I wasn’t missing anything. I also wanted to see if you guys recommended anything different from what I have currently. For my keyboard I want an overall smooth, balanced sounding, not too loud (or too muted), maybe a little bit more on the deeper thockier side sounding keyboard. So here’s my list so far:
Case: KBDfans 65% Wooden Case
PCB: KBDfans DZ65 RGB V3 HOT-SWAP RGB PCB
Plate: KBDfans polycarbonate 65% plate
Stabilizers: I was going with KBDfans recommended cherry stabilizers or durock v2 stabilizers as they were recommended online
Switches: I was planning on going with gateron ink V2 switches and also buying tx springs (long) because the force seemed a bit too high since I’m used to MX browns for years. But I was also thinking about alpacas and lavender switches since they seem very recommended and are a bit lighter, however it seems they may be a bit more clacky and less deep than the gateron ink V2s. I do plan to lube and film all my switches as well (using deskeys switch films I saw on KBDfans).
Lube: Krytox 205g0 on Keebsforall
Keycaps: I was thinking either world tour tokyo or wano country by akko. World tour comes in cherry or osa switches, while wano country is just cherry profile.
So this is what I’ve come up with for a build. Since I am new please let me know if I have something here that I shouldn’t, or if you recommend something better.
Thank you everyone, I appreciate everyone who took the time to read this!
Sure seems like you’re on the right track to me. I suppose just make sure to get PCB mount stabs. I personally prefer Cherry over Durock, but I think most people would say the opposite - both are generally solid options.
Inks are a good choice for deep linears - pretty hard to go wrong with those. Cobalts might also be worth a look, and they’re on sale right now. They’re prelubed bud the springs need some anyway.
Akko caps are well made - can’t really find anything negative to say about them aside their occasional copying of popular colorways.
Enjoy the build and hit us with any questions along the way!
Maybe pcb/case foam? StupidFish has a full set for the DZ65RGB V2, I don’t know how different that is from the V3 but it could work. KBDFans also has pcb foam for the V3, which is convenient if you’re already purchasing the rest of the parts from them. Personally I would just purchase pcb foam as hand-cutting it would be tedious. Case foam is much easier to diy from packing materials or shelf liner as you just have to cut it to fit and make some holes for standoffs, so that could be added later after you’ve done the initial build.
I would maybe recommend to consider kbd67lite which is available at the same price point as the case, pcb and plate combined.
Good Luck with your first build!
I would also recommend the KBD67Lite, from what I hear it’s a nice budget board and already includes stabs, polycarb plate, and plate foam. Did I mention it was gasket mount?
Yup, that’s gasket mounting for you.
As for switches it’s basically preference, but I have a cobalt (just one lol) right now and it’s a solid switch from what I can hear. It’s a long pole linear so the bottom out is a bit louder than some other switches but not that huge of a difference. If you want muted thocc than Inks all the way.
GL with your build and post us some pictures when your done!
First off, Thank you everyone to replied to my post here! I really appreciate the kind and help replies and overall welcoming messages you all left!
So I was actually thinking of the kbd67 lite since it looks like a really good deal. The only thing I was a bit worried about was that many people said it was very light, which had me concerned that it may slide around when it’s on my desk while I’m using it. I was trying to find an actual weight value but I couldn’t find that anywhere. If you have one, does it slide for you or is it pretty weighted once you add all the other components to it?
I tried to do some research on the cobalts, but unfortunately they aren’t very documented online or have many reviews, so it’s a bit hard to get an idea of how their are. I’d rather not buy a bunch of 10 packs of switches and lube and try each one out if I can help it, since that just seems like a small waste of money and time for me. It’s definitely the smartest way to do it, but I’d rather just go with something that looks to be good overall (which I do understand can be hard since switches are largely preference). I do like that the cobalts are much cheaper than the black inks, but it’s just hard to see a comparison in both smoothness and sound with them. The main reason I gravitated to the black inks is because they seem to have an overall balanced, smooth, but slightly deeper thockier sound and they are very widely recommended. But still the cobalts did seem interesting from what I saw reading online. Switches have definitely been my hardest, and most researched, part of the keyboard. I’ve looked over so many, from black inks, to lavenders, alpacas, tangerines, tealios, pom durock, and a whole bunch more. It’s all just very difficult and hard to figure out.
I’ve never had an issue with my KBD67 lite sliding around, except that one time I got a blob of lube on my desk. If you’d like an especially planted feel, you can get an optional silicone filler for the bottom that adds to the weight - though there’s a chance that could take away from the overall sound’s deep character. Another alternative is to put some straight up weights in the bottom - like the adhesive flat ones you might see on the inside of a car wheel. There’s also an aluminum case and brass plate available, and those will definitely add weight - they’ll also completely change the character of the board, generally towards being higher pitched.
It’s like trying to pick a wine just based on the reviews. TF is a tannin? I think I heard a Brit talking about currants once. How is liquid even dry?!
Picking one’s first switch has never been easy - though it was a lot easier like 6 or 7 years ago when the choices were basically “Blue, Red, or Brown”. Especially in the past two years, the selection of switches has absolutely exploded.
Cobalts and Inks are both on the deeper side. I’d say between them Inks might be a bit deeper, with Cobalts making a louder, sharper sound. The Cobalts are also shorter travel.
Both are pretty smooth from the bag. Cobalts might be more-so before tuning, but Inks might have a hair more smoothness potential there when it comes to hand lubing. In my personal opinion, Cobalts take a little less work to reach the “happy to use this all the time” level of clean sound I like - basically just pop out all the springs, bag lube them, and put them back. With Inks I’d want to re-lube all the plastic bits and put in films as well - though at that point you’ve got a real top-shelf switch on your hands.
Alright so after a bit more research, I’ve decided I’m going with the kbd67 lite r3 with black ink v2 switches. I do have a question about the lube part. Will Krytox 205G0 work for both the plastic switch piece as well as the springs, or do I need different lube for the springs themselves? I am also thinking of getting some tx or durock springs for a lighter experience since I’m used to using MX brown switches. I will be getting some deskeys films for the black inks as well. Another thing I’m not sure about is the stabilizers, first, are the stock stabs in the kbd67 lite r3 bad and need to be replaced for a better one? Also do I need to lube stabs, and if so, can I use Krytox 205G0 for those or do I need a different lube for the stabs?
205g0 will work on the plastic parts of the stabs, thin coat where the different parts contact each other. You can put a fairly heavy amount on the ends of the wire (similar to dielectric grease). For springs with 205g0 you’ll want to do the ‘donut dip’ method, with GPL105 ( or other oil lubes) you’ll want to ‘bag lube’. I’ve only done donut dip myself but from what I’ve seen online the bag lube method is faster, so if you can afford an oil lube I would recommend going the bag lube route as it will save you time.