Yeah! Norbatouch Aerospace + Modern D.
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Wow. It’s not often that everything works out like I planned. This was the rare exception
Blackout J-02 with GMK slasher. Such a good keycap set I paid for it twice 
Instagram link. Some cool details:
https://www.instagram.com/p/C4BdlEbPSxV/?igsh=bHZ4bjllcXJjeHM2
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Just got my QK60 in cream and epbt origami matches almost perfectly. Got some stock U4Ts in there, probably have to lube them as they sound a bit scratchy and dry.
I also only noticed after I took the pictures that -/+ are flipped
but super happy how milky this build looks.
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Origami looks great on the QK60. Does it have recessed stems like some of the newer ePBT sets or does it have the older OEM-style stem height?
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Finally got around to doing at least the MX build for my TKL One! Went with Gat Smoothies, Knight stabs (they are really nice!), the alum plate burger mounted, topped of with GMK Hineybeige to keep the theme going LOL! Over all I am very happy with this build, Hiney can design a mean keyboard for sure! Can’t wait to get the ALPS build done & in this!
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Just a small change from the last time I showed this one, but it turns out when you have 102 keys, there’s no real pressing need to minimize how much of R1 you devote to the space bar. This will help with jumping in WASD gaming, and it’s a tiny bit better for typing, though honestly that was not a major issue. It also brings the layout very nearly in line with the board I am using for work, so there’s minimal mental readjustment time.
I have no idea how long they will hold up, but after three weeks for one and a good three months for the other (with it being used frequently and for long stretches, but not quite daily), the hardboard plates on both are actually really nice. A bit of flex, but well within the “comfortable” zone. Box Jade are almost (but not quite) as nice as Box Navy, and Gateron Green are… fine.
EDIT: Forgot to mention that since I had a couple of oopsies on the laser, I was out of homing keycaps for down and num5. Bondic didn’t want to stick (and my tube was turning yellow anyway), so my automatic center punch came to the rescue.
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I just built my poly tlk one and it’s not burger mounted. 
Maybe because it’s plastic he didn’t feel the need? Maybe I screwed up?
Lovely build
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Thanks! Huh, not sure TBH. Mine came with a baggie of tiny o-rings & I assumed that’s what they were for. So I used them in between the plate & top housing. I’m pretty sure I have enough left over for another build or if I don’t I can get you more if want you want some for yours.
Hey, I bet I lost them! This has never happened before but I couldn’t find the feet for my board. And I bet they were in the same baggie! I actually ordered some feet that fit it. Mine seems fine without. Maybe I can find some spare ones somewhere 
Or I can try to ask what size they are in his discord and order some
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First handwired keyboard.
1990 vintage Fujitsu using (I think) ALPS keys. De-soldered from PCB and cleaned the keys, lots of grime after 35 years.
Still deciding on firmware,
This is the matrix layout I’ve come up with, 27 pins needed so it will just fit the Pi Pico I plan to use.
I’d start soldering but it’s a bit hot today for that sort of thing (35C)
EDIT: Change of plan, going to split up rows for 12 rows and loop the columns as shown (blue wires)
Be sure to tell me if this won’t work!
This will give 12 rows and 11 columns so I’ll have some pins spare for LED indicators
11 Likes
The ones that came with mine were black.
1 Like
Okay. I added the orings and took some photos
Better photos on my Instagram post here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/C4TPOuaO7wa/?igsh=MWo1b3h2M3R2N29wbw==
5 Likes
So you had 27 pins after all! Nice. The matrix is much easier when you can just have your rows be “clean.” I have found KMK to be super easy. I’ve been exposed to coding since I was kid using Atari BASIC, but it’s never been my profession or even a significant hobby, but I have been able to get a matrix wired up with a layer or two with no trouble at all. I haven’t played much with LED indicators, but they seem pretty straightforward.
Damn that is super clean bud! Makes me want to hit Hiney up for a polycarb One myself! I seen most of the colors & they all came out great, but there is just something extra to the clear PC IMHO. So does it feel or sound any better being burger mounted VS before? I’m quickly falling in love with my alum TKL One. The feel & sound are just phenomenal with it IMO. On the stiffer side, but super consistent across the whole board & the Smoothies pole bottom out give the sound that little bit of extra oomph that sounds perfect to me! Plus the spacebar absolutely smacks with the Knight stabs! So glad I took your advice & gave them a try. Small sample size for me but I’m about 90% sure I prefer these to TX AP. They actually remind me a lot of my favorite stabs TX rev.3, but with just a tiny bit tighter tolerances (what I think APs should’ve been being honest). I mean it finally got the Dolphin off my desk for more than a few hours which is no small feat cause I really love that build as well. The only gripe I could have with the TKL One is the typing angle is just slightly below what I prefer, but not low enough to really call it a negative for me.
Anyways, awesome build bud! Enjoy using that bad boy! 
Definitely look like SKCM/L ALPS or ALPS clones. Love the way you’re getting around converting it to work with modern PCs by just tossing the PCB out & going full handwired! Can’t wait to see how this turns out. Please post some pics of the wiring & a sound test if possible once you get it all finished up. Also if you can put a pic up of the front of the switches where we can see the slider color, we should be able to identify what the switches you have in there actually are. Anyways GL with the build, it’s gonna be a banger if all goes well with it!
Managed to prise a keycap off. Keyboard was made between 1988 and 1990, assembled by Fujistu Australia but actual source unknown.
I have a very similar keyboard that is used everyday via a PS/2 to USB adapter. If this build goes well, then it’s next for an upgrade!
4 Likes
With the timeframe it was built I’d say most likely the switches should be SKCM whites! While there was simplified ALPS clones floating around in the early 90’s, ALPS themselves didn’t stop making complicated ALPS till 96 so it would actually be rare to find simplified ALPS clones in a higher end keyboard of the time like this. Also that Model M clone is fire! What switches are in that? If they have a blue slider you might have a board full of what most regard as the best discrete clicky switches ALPS SKCM blues!
