Preferred Build Process

Let me know if you can relate:

  1. Buy parts for build
    1.2 Let parts sit in drawer for 4 months

  2. Go back and forth about lubing switches for build or sticking to the factory lube.

  3. Lube a quarter of the switches
    3.1 decide it’s not worth it, count to make sure I have enough unmodified switches to continue

  4. Let project sit for two weeks while I start other projects

  5. Tune stab(s) to perfection then question whether id rather go with a different layout to avoid stabs altogether (40s club)
    5.1 decide to go with stabs

  6. Solder

  7. Try different keycaps, monkeytype

  8. Keep trying different keycaps

All the while other builds are happening between and behind the above build. Any other ADHDers out there? Lol. It’s fun, it’s just frustrating fun.

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Here is my process:

  1. Buy parts for the build

  2. Receive parts for the build (Wait until all parts have arrived before starting process)

  3. Test pcb on keyboard tester. I typically place the pcb on a box and go through each set of pads on the pcb and make sure that there are no issues.

  4. Change my mind on:
    - Which Keyset I will be using
    - Whether or not to powdercoat the board, paint the board or keep the factory color.

4.1. If I choose to change the color, I will either paint it myself, or drop it off to\at my local powdercoater. Then I traditionally need to wait a month or so to begin the build.

  1. Test lube a few switches if I have not used them before:
    - If I prefer them lubed, I will finish all of the switches in one go
    - If I prefer them unlubed, I will move on to the next step

  2. Lube all stabilizers thoroughly and install them on the pcb

  3. Test the stabilizers by installing switches. Check for creaks rattles etc. If there are issues, I return to step 6 until I get it right.

  4. Begin soldering switches (Rarely use hot-swap, I do NOT like using hot swap pcbs)

  5. Boot up keyboard tester once again and make sure everything is working still.

  6. Open up the keyboard programming software (Typically QMK configurator), and flash the keyboard.

  7. Assemble the keyboard.

  8. Enjoy my new board

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  1. buy topre
  2. type
  3. lube stabs when putting in aftermarket case

For mx it goes something like:

  1. join groupbuy
  2. source switches and stabs (potentially from GB)
  3. l/f switches before shipping notification
  4. test PCB
  5. tune stabs
  6. test board with stab keys only
  7. solder switches
  8. test board
  9. build and flash firmware
  10. type on topre instead
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For those who prefer soldering over hotswap, what’s the attraction there?

I totally get that soldering lets you rebuild and/or mod just about any board as well as pick your own key layout, but with PCB’s like the Cascade offering options like split backspace and the availability of top-shelf in stock hotswap kits, is there still a reasonable return on investment with soldering?

I’m only asking because I’d like to learn to solder, but continue convincing myself it’s not worth it. I’m sure I’m mistaken …

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You will end up having some south-facing and some north-facing switches with pcb like this no? With that being said, I prefer hotswap.

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Honestly, I view each build as a snapshot of my hobby at the time. I like the relative permanence of the build choices. I like that it feels like a more involved build. I like soldering. I also use it as an excuse to buy and mod fewer switches, as that is far and away my least favorite part.

But it’s all preference. Unless you have specialty use cases that necessitates solder vs hot swap (half plates and flexy builds for example), it just comes down to what you prefer.

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Cool. So there’s not a perceived “phoniness” to hotswap only builders? I just dig this hobby and don’t want to sell myself short.

Imo, if someone sees hotswap as phoney, that’s a “them problem” and not a “you problem.” I don’t appreciate that outlook, personally.

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So for me its a couple things.

First off, I love soldering. I find it super relaxing and I learned to solder when I was very young, so it just comes naturally to me. More importantly for me though, is the issues I often have with hotswap. When installing switches I frequently bend pins and sometimes have to remove / reinstall switches several times before getting them to work. I have never experienced this issue with a non-hotswap pcb.

The other reason has only happened to me a few times, but it is extremely frustrating. Sometimes if a plate is slightly warped or if the hotswap sockets are loose, the pcb will pull away from the switches after a short time of general use. This typically happens with switches on the outside of the board and I will often notice first that they occasionally disconnect before they just simply do not work at all. This means I need to open the keyboard up and re install everything.

Ultimately I would rather have something ridgid that I know will not come apart as opposed to switches randomly popping out / disconnecting when I do not intend for them to.

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That’s a terrific point and a pretty convincing point of view.

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Don’t get me wrong though, there have been times where I really wished I used a hotswap, especially when trying a unique switch. De-soldering is not fun. Even with a de-soldering gun I can’t stand taking switches out.

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Soldering is easy peasy and one of the quickest steps in the build process. I’ll find the KT thread with old PACE training videos: More than you need for keyboard soldering, but enjoyable and educational.

Soldering is satisfying, a useful skill generally, and personally it feels good when I make clean joints and the board looks 10/10 on the pinside :smiling_face:.

So, as far as picking up soldering goes…do it!

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Preferred Build Process:

Getting it Right

Reality:

  • Accidentally soldering on switches for win key on a WKL board
  • not realizing a stab isn’t fully in after clipping in switches (but thankfully before soldering)
  • Wondering why your plate won’t fit over your stabs then realizing your stabs are facing the wrong way on the PCB :man_facepalming:
  • spilling RO-59 lube
  • realizing 3/4 through lubing your switches you don’t have enough to build the board with the switches you are currently lubing
  • Getting the Dremel out because… you know
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Nice. I appreciate the words of encouragement and info. I think I’ll give it a go.

The other day I chuckled when I realized how much I value L/F my own switches, but don’t have the same view in soldering them myself. Maybe I should …

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Holy $#@!, you too? Lol.

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Most of the pros are covered but soldering gives you the feeling of ‘I built this’ instead of ‘I assembled this’

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Can you solder switches into a PCB with mill-max sockets? Apologies in advance if that’s a stupid question. Lol.

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I wouldn’t say that’s a stupid question, and the short answer is yes.

Caveats might be that de-soldering would be significantly more difficult, or if they aren’t the lower-profile ones, you might end up with a PCB of switches sitting a fraction of a mm too high. If everything fits and you don’t plan on changing things later, there’s no reason why the joints wouldn’t be solid and functional.


Soldering in general:

Agreed with @sarvopari; if you can lube stabs, you absolutely possess the manual dexterity, visual acuity, and common sense necessary to solder. I have a feeling you’ll find it shockingly easy, and have a chuckle to yourself about it. Find something to practice with, arrange some good ventilation, and have a little fun picking up a new skill.

Now, de-soldering… well. With that I’m in agreement with @blackriver - that activity is disproportionately not fun in comparison. A motorized gun (brrr) helps a lot - like… a lot… but it still kinda sucks. (D’oh - no pun intended) Definitely one of those disciplines that takes genuine patience and a fair bit of care.

I’m 100% confident you could become proficient at it in an evening; it just tends to be a slog. :stuck_out_tongue:


Soldering in context of personal keeb builds:

I love my hot-swap boards and use them the vast majority of the time, but there is something satisfying about a build with a sort of “bow on it” - when some switches and a chassis come together right, it’s nice to lock-in that gestalt with a little solder.

I think of the hot-swap boards as platforms; my [ keyboard ] with [ today’s switches ]. For a personal build, once I find some things that I really like or that I think work well together, that’s when I might move to a soldered version of the same PCB, or to an otherwise similar soldered keeb to edify a favored configuration. Instead of being filed in my head as my [ x model ] with [ x case ] and [ x switches today ], it’s more like my [ numerically unique, individual keyboard ].

With some platforms (including a couple of my favorites), both hot-swap and soldered PCBs are available - and for the KBD67L, I picked up one of the latter for myself with a particular plan. When I’ve tried all the plates and padding configurations I care to try, and when I’ve tried enough switches to find at least one I’d love to always have in a build, I’ll take that configuration and put it together as a permanent build to have alongside my constantly-changing hot-swap daily-drivers.


As for my build process, I’m gonna say it sounds a whole lot like @pixelpusher’s :upside_down_face:

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Uh, so here it goes:

Buy parts for build

Test PCB

Wait for a bit (Dunno, I just wait. Like just shivering with excitement for a few hours)

Lube switches (All at once, usually at weekends)

Lube/tune stabs for the spacebar

Redo stab for spacebar (I have a feeling that for every build, I need to get one stab wrong to know what I did wrong and do it better on the other keys, 65% do be clutch there)

Do rest of stabs

Put it all together

Look for switches that sound weird or just different and relube them

Search for that one Franken switch for the spacebar

Realize that I need to replace the spring with the same one as all the others

Fine tune (again)

spam spacebar for tick (I am ruthless :slight_smile: )

EDIT: Put dampening pads on only the spacebar (am I the only one that does this? It feels good ONLY on the spacebar for some reason)

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Actually one of the boards that I mentioned having some issues did have mill maxed sockets. I soldered that board because the switches and pcb were cheap and to @Deadeye 's point, I probably won’t ever disassemble it. Not a bad question at all.

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