Rekindled interest in Topre / EC boards - but limited by layout preferences

Hi Keebtalk - looking forward to engaging here as my urge to build keyboards was sparked again by the video with Adam Savage on the new Norbauer Seneca.

It reminded me of why I got into keyboards in the first place - the chase for something that feels and sounds satisfying and makes day-to-day tasks or hobbies just a tad more enjoyable.

I got into custom keyboards about 8 years ago, and was chasing the ultimate feel and sound, I was drawn to tactiles and thocky sound, and at the time went through all the big hits, Zealios first, then the Box Hakos, finally Holy Pandas when DROP made them obtainable, had a short dabble into the fun IKEA-inspired Linjärs, and after complaints from colleagues, finally settled on Boba U4s, which I have two almost identical boards with now. Along all this time chasing the ultimate tactile feel and sound, I kept seeing references to “this switch almost feels like Topre” and I was always wondering: Is Topre my end-game? Can I get the satisfying tactile feedback, the deep thock, and maybe even some of the smoothness of linears?

My challenge with getting my ultimate board was always the same: ISO. I tried ANSI, I tried classic 60% - I went through classic DZ60 tray mount boards, my beautiful Polaris with Holy pandas, but I ended up concluding that I need my arrow cluster, and I need my ISO layout - but I want it as small as possible.

So 65% ISO became my goal but also my main limiter. Over the years mainstream brands got into the space, and regardless of how much I preferred having something unique, something I modified, adjusted, configured, the practical choice was getting myself two Keychron Q2s. The boards are objectively great with my Boba U4s, stabs are tuned, switches lubed, it works - but it just felt too easy… I accepted it for years, always wondering what was out there.. until that video, which brought up that same old question: Is Topre my end-game? and is my ISO 65% dream possible now??

With new GenAI knowledge gathering options I tried to go back into research mode and figure out if it’s still only your HHKB, Leopold, Realforce stock boards, and exclusive Norbauer cases that allows one to experience those switches.

I learned that there are options, but that my layout wishes are still highly limiting factors. Namely my options seem to be:

Sho66, Cupilot plate, and the best domes I can find. Seems like the “proper” way, but also quite expensive.

Custom group buy boards - I’m hooked on trying the Kraze65 EC when it comes in, it seems to check all the boxes, and with that price, it’s definitely worth it for me to dip my toes in EC

And … something I had disregarded as pure hardcore gaming BS (I mainly play slower single-player games): Hall Effect switches, specifically the XVX Whisper, which seems to be quite hyped. So - I’m now on the lookout for a cheaper HE board where I can try these out, while waiting for the Kraze65. Again, my layout limitations are getting me to about half a handful of boards..

Now.. that was a long ass backstory and intro, so my questions in case anyone made it this far:

Am I missing any obvious paths that I just haven’t found because it’s hard to find info on sub-niches of niche hobbies?

Is there a consensus on modding, and what’s worth it? Part of me is considering just getting the full Unreal Keyboards kit, and follow his guides. Other part is thinking that I can probably use band aids instead of landing pads, BDZ for stabs rather than specifically the 206G2, maybe even the tribosys 3204 I already have instead of 205g0 :open_mouth: . But definitely the plate gasket seems tempting. Happy to heard your experiences

Have anyone here had hands on the Metapulse EC stuff to try out? It seems it hasn’t really hit the market yet, but that some people have been allowed to test.

Are the claims that the XVX Whisper HE/EC switches feel “almost” like Topre anywhere near true? People call it underrated, well kept secret, best of both worlds, etc - but I’m a bit skeptical. Nonetheless, it’s an interesting entry which also allows a cheaper wireless board for office use (even if it’s gaming minded)

What’s the deal with wireless/bluetooth? Is there some inherent technical limitation to EC and wireless connectivity? Or is it purely a matter of market size? It seems like a niche thing where you need to order specific daughterboards from China matching specific PCBs, e.g. the Leopold 660 layout. Is that true? Is it realistic to e.g. mod the Kraze65 to be wireless?

And a bonus question: Are the OG “real” Topre boards just plain better than aftermarket stuff? Or is it a bit like other hobbies where the vintage OG stuff just has a certain status?

TL;DR: I like thocky tactile switches, I wanna try EC boards, but I have a strict ISO requirement and a 65% or close-to-it preference, and wonder if Kraze65, XVX Whisper, or full on Leopold 660 replicas are the only ways to get that?

3 Likes

This was the first I’ve heard of these. It looks like they put a put a magnet in a Topre-to-MX slider, pierced the domes so the magnet can do its thing, and adjusted the housing to MX dimensions. I haven’t used them, but it’s an interesting idea that will utterly depend on the domes they used and whether the housings are compatible with aftermarket Topre-compatible domes. I also think that tactile switches of any type (dome or slider-bump) have limited use cases in HE/TMR boards, because apart from varying the primary actuation point to the user’s liking in a “set and forget” kind of way, every other advantage of them works better if the switch is linear. If you’ve got your analog multipress fine-tuned for two or three actions, you generally don’t want a dramatic physical tactile event right in the middle of it.

As to your last point, maybe I’m gaslighting myself, but I’ve enjoyed the “Pepper” aftermarket domes in my Realforce TKL quite a bit more than I did the stock domes, so like everything else, what’s “better” may generate more or less consensus, but it all still comes down to preference.

Thanks for the input!

I’m luckily not really after the HE functionality, but just trying that switch in a drop in board.

I’d probably just set it to actuate at bottoming out.

But I’ve seen people mention that when using these topre-inspired magnetic switches for fast paced games, they simply set the actuation point above the collapsing point.

I’ll check out those domes as well, and yes, it’s definitely all subjective- but when you can’t try everything, having some recommendations and consensus to lean on is nice!