Hi All,
I’ve gotten a little enthusiastic about swapping the PCBs I have housed in my teal 5 degree case and have stripped the threads in one of the mounting holes.
This is a real issue for my XD75, as it is one of the two anchoring points you can reach around that particular board.
Any advice? Ideally avoiding anything permanent like glue, resin etc.
Maybe use a dab of hot glue? It’s easy to peel off again, yet sturdy.
Teflon tape around the screw?
Ha. Two useful tricks of the hobby there. Thx.
Awesome, thanks everyone, I’ll try these out!
Hi Everyone,
Just wanted to give an update on how I went with the board.
After asking around with some friends, I heard about a tool called a ‘tap’.
The idea is, you screw it into something and it adds threads. I bought a really cheap one off Aliexpress and screwed in an m3 head (standard screws are m2). Then, I tried out an m3 screw and it worked perfectly.
The image below is the tool and an m2 screw to the left of an m3 for comparison.
Hope this helps someone out there!
This is great! I also stripped a couple of mounting holes in my 5 degree case. Do you have a link to the tap you bought on aliexpress? I’d definitely like to give this a try.
M2 should be banned! But in all seriousness, I had the small screws that held the USB port of my Norbatouch strip after powder coating and stripping the finish so many times. I think the acid bath wore down the small threads so I might just tap some of the bigger threads that match the rest of the screws instead of hot gluing the striped ones
Hi guys,
Glad I’m not the only one that’s run into the problem!
Here’s the link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/11pcs-set-M1-M1-2-M1-4-M1-6-M1-7-M1-8-M2-M2-5/32874218293.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7caf4c4dWYnTMv
Just remember to unscrew the tap counterclockwise when you’re done, rather than pull straight up and undo your great work.
And here’s another pic, the m3 screw did make contact with a neighbouring switch, but not in a way that caused any problems.
Nice, thanks for sharing! I’ll definitely pick one of these tap sets up and fix my case. With the stripped holes, the board was pretty rattly to type on
Hmm. I think if this happens to me, I’d take a dremel and dremel out the post and instead replace it with an m2 brass standoff. Not sure how well that’d work, but probably doable.
Bump this up just to add that I have a similar problem with Kbdfans’ D60 alum case. Not sure why they would think using these flimsy m2 screws to hold the top and bottom case together is a good idea. Like @Kurisu said M2 should be banned.
