Worth trying for sure if you like that sort of thing, very fun
Oh cool, yeah just need to pick up another pcb
And noted, thanks for the link, didn’t know those were a thing! That would help with some of the other boards I have too lol
This is the only one I found like it, so it’s barely a thing! It seems mostly for a certain kind of rugged phone with a thick case. I think it’s better suited for keyboard that doesn’t move around as much as a phone.
The Salvation’s USB hole seems plenty wide, but I guess where other PCBs sit in the case can vary just slightly but enough. A daughterboard would eliminate the issue, but I understand the design goal to make it drop-in compatible with GH60-like PCBs.
It’s not, like, bad with a regular cable…maybe not too noticeably different…see what you think…
Georen at Dispatch Cables told me he could also probably make something with a long connector but nicer, which I would like some day.
1 Like
Since I mentioned using a USB cable with a long plug for the Salvation with the Hiney H60 to keep the cable from hitting, since the port sticks out just slightly less than the Wilba PCBs.
I picked up a few USB cables at Ikea because I liked the colors and the price. The rubber ends look eeeever so slightly flatter than others I’ve tried. Turns out, these don’t seem to hit any more than the ugly ones I got with the long plug.
So that’s another kind of random option and suggestion that ymmv depending on what plugs you happen to have.
3 Likes
Cool that there’s more options out there lol. I still haven’t really got around to doing a plateless salvation build yet, just been focusing on some other stuff lately, I will get to it eventually lol.
I guess for an update for the thread, I’ve tried some more 60s and pulled out some of the older ones I had too, and really I think I’m just done with 60s, the hhkb is just what I feel most at home with, and the other mx 60s I’ve got fill the roles I’d want them to quite well. Only thing I’m still eying would be a leviatán since another plateless 60 would be nice to have (want to try a plateless brown build), and also another oring 60 with a unique plate like pp or nylon, outside of that think I’m really done looking for 60%.
I’ve also spent some more time going back to TKL and that’s just been a nice reminder of how nice top mount tkl is, shame top mount 60s just don’t really hit the same
3 Likes
Agree. Not enough area and mass to really get that same feel as a TKL
3 Likes
Thinking about it, has anyone tried any top mount 60s that weren’t overly stiff to where they didn’t feel great, but didn’t rely on extreme amounts of flex cuts in the pcb and plate? Considering some options, but debating on if it’s worth trying just because I don’t see too many that seem designed specifically for top mount
Have a few more 60s coming, but lately have been instead focusing my efforts on tuning my tkls which I’ve found more rewarding lately (also think I’ve kinda found “the ones” there as well which I’m happy about)
1 Like
I hear you. You can leave out mounting points, especially with a stiff plate like aluminum or carbon fiber.
It’s very common to leave off any mounting point beneath the spacebar. My Ellipse was designed with six mounting points - the corners and right in the middle. This was done to also accommodate gaskets, since the board has three mounting styles, but they make it too stiff. I recently built it with only the corners, since the aluminum plate is stiff enough that it doesn’t bow too much - much better.
3 Likes
True, that’s one of the things I did with the CLS, made it a surprisingly comfy feeling board (and I liked the spacebar sound more too that way). I like jane mounting points generally for top mount tkl boards, doesn’t really seem to fail lol. From what I see there seems to be less consistency for 60% mounting points
2 Likes