From my (admittedly cursory) research, you can actually get this board for a few bucks cheaper than the TADA, assuming you are OK with Cherry MX switches. I also fancy the idea of a split space bar (which the Cypher offers).
Granted, this is from a pre-built perspective; I’m not sure how the calculus changes if you are getting a kit and doing it yourself. My understanding is that the cost savings are relatively small (5-10%), so for my money, I would prefer to get something pre-built and save the time.
All of that to say: where are you ordering your TADAs from? To me, on paper at least, the Cypher looks like slightly better value…
But they’re neck to neck. Price for both the TADA and Cypher vary based on what switch you choose, but the TADA68 is programmable via TMK/(and I assume QMK as well) which definitely makes it a bit more favorable for a lot of people considering both.
Assuming Vortex is using the same keycaps they used for the Pok3r, I’d give the edge in keycaps to the TADA68 since those dye subs are pretty nice.
I like this. They noticed that floating keys is no longer the wave, and so this case is a higher profile than the poker, and I like how they went with single spacebar.
If I were in the market for another 65% (I have a pre-ordered Ducky/Varmilo Mac MIYA coming in already), would go for this one, stock, over the TADA, especially f it has programmabiility, since Ive learned that the angle on the TADA case is way too aggressive for me.
If I have any reservations about Vortex its their sometimes low-profile cases, and the fact that their stabilizers are really hit and miss in my experience typing on other peoples’ boards.
the original cypher i saw had a split space bar, which kind of turned me off. I used to own a core with ergo-clears and i couldnt get used to the split space bar and ended up selling it at a meet-up. i dont really see the purpose in having a split space bar on a 65% but I know some people are really into it.
Thank you for the link; that’s where I found them too. In your opinion, are the aluminum cases worth the price? I reflexively want aluminum, but I am hesitant as it nearly doubles the price of the board if I buy it.
Also, yeah, the ability to program the board seems like quite the enticement. The split space bar, for example, would be a lot less awesome if A: it wasn’t programmed to what I wanted, and B: couldn’t be changed to what I wanted.
As far as key caps, honestly, I wasn’t worried. I rarely leave the caps on my boards stock unless the ones that are included are really good. Still, having something good from the start is nothing to sneeze at.
do you prefer the floating profile to the slightly higher profile? im curious bc i always thought that one of the complains people have about the Race is the fact that the switches are so exposed (and the lack of keycap compatability)
Oh man. I couldn’t figure out why I didn’t like my Tada build. I have more keyboards than I know what to do with, but for some reason I kept avoiding using this one. Then I realized it was the angle. It’s helped save me money in the long run b/c I can avoid expensive group buys that have steep angle boards
I put some rubber feet on the bottom FRONT of the case and it helped a lot
The first time I extensively typed on a TADA was during a competition at a meetup. It was a loaner with zealios. I learned that 1) I cant use much more than a 5 degree angle, 2) I (surprisingly) dont like zealios much, either the feel or the sound, and 3) WOW cherry profile at a sharp angle is a completely different typing experience than at a flat angle. I dont know how people type on GMK on Duck boards because there is so much less keycap space on cherry profile caps when the angle is elevated, I kept missing presses.
I used to love the floating look, but I think I just prefer the idea that my switches are better protected in a high-pro. It never occurred to me until I started using a Magicforce as a travel board about a year ago and I had to be extra careful to make sure the keycaps didnt come off in-transit.
Also just to note, same with their other recent products; the SMD pads are on there for RGB switch lighting. You just have to solder them on yourself then work out the keys for it; it is pre flashed to work.