What did you get in the mail today? (Part 1)

Top left (green) - Moss Switch:

  • Polycarbonate Top
  • Nylon Bottom
  • POM Stem
  • Gold plated spring (67g)
  • No factory pre-lube (crazy, right? Because they are super smooth. I sent this to you because I’m a fan)
    These moss switches with some 205g0 or 3204 might win for my favorite linear at the moment.

Top right - Gazzew U4 Thock:

  • Same idea as the silent boba just not silent! A big bump but rounded out.
    Definitely my favorite of the crazy tactile breed.

Bottom Right - JWK Snow White:

  • Polycarbonate top
  • Polyamide bottom
  • POM stem
  • Custom 64g spring
  • Thin lubricant applied, improved method.
    I was impressed with these for a stock, oil lubed switch and I don’t think they even need films.
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Awesome! I have been schooled :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

Koalas sound great with an acrylic build!


Got a super nice haul of ALPS stuff in from @rpiguy9907 in today. Got 40 really nice SKCM oranges, 69 really nice SKCM salmons, almost a full set of SGI Granite caps, almost a full set of thin DCS ALPS mount caps, some misc Apple ALPS caps, a cream locking ALPS switch, 2 SKBM white ALPS, & a MX locking switch! Thanks again for the bundle bud, I’ll definitely put this stuff to good use!

Then I also got in 3 sets of V2 C3 Equalz stabs in from TKC to give them a try. I got two sets of N9 housings, 1 set of cream housings, 2 sets of black wires, & 1 set of emerald green wires (oh lala! :rofl:). Thinking about using the cream housings with the emerald green wires on my Ouro Jules with GMK Dandy once I get all of that in!

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I personally love the v2 C3 stabs. To me they are just as smooth as durock stabs (or really damn close) and they have a deeper sound. Not as big of an issue with v2 durocks, but the wire is nice and secure on the C3’s.

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Nice to hear cause I highly prefer the color options with C3 stabs & they are cheaper than Durock screw ins also!

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Did you try the V1 c3 stabs/know how the compare to the durock ones?

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I did try out the V1s & overall I really liked them. PBT caps with even slight warp will make them bind though as the housings & stems fit very tightly together on them. Although they never gave me any issues with my GMK sets. In fact other than the issue with PBT caps (which should be fixed with these V2 ones) I’d put them on par with Durock screw ins.

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Oh, cool, thanks for the quick response, I knew about the pbt thing but wasn’t sure otherwise. I got like eight sets of the V1s and have been using those for everything, wasn’t sure if I was missing out on the durock ones. I didn’t even have issues with sanctuary rebirth on the c3 ones

Edit: oh wait never mind the space bar didn’t work I used a jtk black one I had

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LOL, I did the same thing with my Sanctuary set, I use the black JTK space out of my Toxic kit with it. Honestly though if the V1s are working for you, you are not missing anything by not having tried Durock stabs. They’re just as nice as each other other than with PBT IMHO. I’ll probably throw a set of these V2s on my HS board tomorrow night & test them out with PBT, will definitely let you know how that goes!

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:joy: that’s exactly the one I used

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Got some orange Dusk Pandas in from Alphakeys:

Didn’t take a bunch of photos (DST stealing my morning) but I did take one of these apart and, in the context of my last teardown these are somewhat interesting:

  1. The stem is almost the same as the EVIL Miami stem (same bump shape, rail tapering, injection marks, same “F” mold marker), but does not feature the extended pole present in either of the other two switches
  2. The bottom housing is extremely similar to the Ethereal Panda bottom housing (same smooth internal rails, injection marks, mold marker placement) but the mold marker is “10” whereas the Ethereal Panda’s was “4”
  3. The top housing is also extremely similar to the Ethereal Panda top housing (same injection marks and internal ridge on the E/W side rails, but no nameplate), but features a small “lip” on the bottom LED slot side:
  4. Same springs as Ethereal Pandas? (Ethereal Panda spring on left, Dusk Panda spring on right)

The Ethereal Pandas are listed as having a 63.5g bottom-out while the Dusk Pandas are listed as having a 67g bottom-out. If the springs aren’t different, that may simply be due to the latter having a longer travel than the former.

EDIT: Definitely film these things if you open them, we’re talking old JWK levels of housing wobble post-opening. And you should definitely open them because they’re a bit pingy stock.

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The difference may be the spring wire diameter, could be determined with a caliper.

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Yeah I really need to get some calipers. If anybody’s got recs for good ones I’d appreciate it.

I use these - probably overkill for keeb things, but no complaints so far:

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Funny thing - I had my very first wire pop out during a build the other day. It happened a couple times, and it was with Durock V2’s. I think it had at least something to do with my attempt to use heat shrink on the wires, which I’ve had very mixed results with so far.

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This has never worked for me either. It kept my gmk pcb stabs from operating at all.

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Dad sent me some cool stuff again; this toolkit and a build kit for an LED voltage tester to facilitate switching LEDs in keyboards - namely the eyeball-destroying blue ones on my brown Filco - but any others that might come up, too.

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I use old ones from my father, they are probably more than 50 years old, so can’t help you find good references.

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Big mail day here, slowly starting to get into frankenswitches, so got a few Creams for harvesting the stems (Still deciding between Black Cherry Pies or Creamerons)

Got a few Black Inks for the Vega (Which i hope shall arrive by June-ish) as well. A couple of Hiney H87Cs from 1up for the Freyr build and possibly Geons Frog TKL whenever it arrives, a TS80P so i can start soldering myself, and a couple of Dixie Skull Deskmats as well as the KWKxGAF one

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