I bought some just in case. Sometimes you need these specific ones.
I bought 16 types for the collection.
HMX Aperol
HMX Puppy
HMX Cthulhu
HMX XinHai
XLLAB HMX Hydra
HMX Grape Soda
HMX Strawberry Soda
HMX Retro J
HMX LuLu
XLLAB HMX Tarot Ball
HMX Diorie
HMX Caramel Pudding V2
HMX Pine Moon
HMX Yamatake
XLLAB x HMX Yogurt R2
HMX FUYAO
I wanted to dress up the NEO98 so I got this Red anodized aluminum keycap from Capsmiths on Etsy to serve as my Escape key.
It looks pretty good, but I may keep looking for one thatâs brighter red.
DCS After School needed with the quickness
Wouldnât it be great if they released a standard-pole Pure Tea?
I donât need the loud âthock.â
BTW, HMX Yamatake is a pretty decent light-tactile.
Well, at the beginning of the hobby, about five years ago.
I also thought it would be cool and nice to have packaging.
Or that all the switches needed to be stored in a jar.
But now, thatâs it. No packaging or jars. Just bags.
I only save the packaging and boxes for keycaps. I also save the boxes from the stabilizers, since they come in either v1 or v3 versions.
Iâve bought quite a few plates from greendoor, but have had switch cutout tolerance issues with the last couple that I purchased. They were oversized enough that even my switches that are on the larger size would fall right out. The jobs were custom and the files were from the keyboard creators. Not sure if being adapted to being laser cut or even the files were at fault of course. Have you had any trouble?
I havenât had any issues. Iâve used them for my Argyle, two of Gehirn TKLs, two LW-67 boards, two Prophets, and 4 60% tray mounts. They were POM and IMA material.
Thatâs good to hear. Maybe mine were flukes.
Some switch manufacturers have smaller housings than those made by major players like Gateron or Kail.
This isnât just the wobble in the plate that sometimes causes it; itâs also the reason why you have an unpleasant typing sound. They simply wobble, shake, knock, or otherwise produce other noises.
Moreover, the switch housing itself is sturdy and fits securely, and doesnât require a spacer between the top and bottom.
Thereâs also this really nasty joke.
Itâs like pulling out a switch))))))
Everyone whoâs been in the hobby for a while has probably encountered this.
There are switches that are easy and straightforward to pull out.
And there are those where you can tear off the case, but the bottom of the switch will still be inside.
And not every puller can pull it out.
The project author could have made allowances for the hole either for this case or for loose ones. Or for the fact that there will be cherry switch, and they often insert a spacer between the top and bottom, which makes the case thicker, meaning the hole in the plate needs to be slightly larger.
Plastic sheets can be cut physically, mechanically, with a drill or milling cutter.
Thereâs also thermal cutting, like laser cutting.
They usually even warn that their cutting is laser-cut, which means itâs thermal, meaning the tolerances may be worse.
gulp I feel slightly threatened by the knife close up, but anyways nice Type-Rs B)
Just trying to tune his stabs.
Got my replacement plate from greendoorgeeks. No hassle at all to get the new plate and I think itâs a subtle but noticeable improvement in looks to not have a switch cutout below the PC blockers.
A gift from a friend for my large collection of switches that I donât have.
A family member gave me a beautiful mandolin for my birthday (it wasnât today but Iâm only just getting around to posting).
Although I wasnât involved in choosing the instrument, I couldnât have picked a better looking finish; it has a dark, not-too-saturated brown color that Iâve really been drawn to lately, a similar but lighter shade to the Commodore keycaps I love so much.
(Iâm only just noticing that I did not dust off the mandolin before taking these photos, please ignore ^^)
They look good together : )
