Gearing up for building my Frog 8K, finally got the shipping notice for it today! Figured I’d grab a TX AP stab set to see if they are better than the last rev., also needed some springs & Geon’s are a fantastic value! Just wish they had 15mm ones, but I can deal with 18mm at lighter weights. Now I gotta figure out what switches to use with it. I’m tempted to use the rest of my new nixies, but I do have a really good batch of oil kings & a bunch of other switches I’ve been meaning on giving a try in a build. Thankfully I went with the 7u hotswap PCB for the 8K!
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mykeyboard.eu is doing a sale at the moment, 50% off on some items, to lower their inventory.
Ordered 100 8008 Ink blacks, 300 gateron whites, and 2 deskmats.
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I had a ton of stuff in my cart that I really want, but I just don’t need. There are so many upcoming group buys that I’m interested in. Grrr…
But I did think about GMK Watermelon and GMK Star and GMK Baltic. Had them in my cart. Never checked out.
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I am not a fan of Kickstarter, but on the very last day I could not resist to pledge for a Oshid Amber keycap set in OSA profile.
Being a bit of a night owl hacker, I like low lighting conditions to keep my melatonin levels up. I think I might get around with only the light of my monitor and an RGB-lit transparent keyboard. We will see (or not) 
…
There is also the lame excuse that electricity prices in Europe are going through the roof (~ 50 €c/kWh), but it will take a while to amortise the costs of the keycaps and possibly a new keyboard. 
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That is a pretty slick ideal to have the legends embedded in the key. Shame it doesn’t have support for tsangan bottom row though. If it did I would probably jump on too.
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Decided to give a JC Studios set a shot since they have Desko (has keys to fill in the nav cluster on the 8k) & the price is great (well if the quality is good it is a great price). Then grabbed some building & modding materials I need while I was at it. I’ll let you guys know how good or bad the dyesub work on the JC Studios set is when I get it later this week. I’m assuming the blanks are good because they are XMI blanks & the consensus seems to be they are good quality. Fingers crossed I didn’t waste money on them!
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They appear to be same keysets as Brother Leek keyset I recently ordered through Superbuy. If they’re using XMI blanks then you may need to polish top surface and edges like I had to before. While perfectly usable as is, I prefer smoother texture and rounded edges.
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As long as the dyesub work is good & there is no bunk caps (bent space bar, caps that sit crooked, etc. I’d be fine with a heavier texture, although I may do the same as I also prefer smoother keys with more rounded corners. Thanks for the heads up bud!
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What’s your plan for the 206g0?
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Stabs mostly, but I also want to try it on on some linear switches to see if there is any difference vs 205g0.
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I ordered an Iron180 from mykeyboard.eu for 50% off. This is going to be my first time soldering so I am a bit nervous but I plan on making this keyboard my endgame.
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Hopefully my keyboard.eu has cleaned up their act… 
When you get it in, feel free to hit up any number of folks on here for soldering tips. I would just say to make sure you go with a good quality 63/37 solder (I prefer Kester), heat your iron to 335 °C, and follow the “5 second” or “1-3-1” rule:
- Iron to pin for 1 second
- Apply solder to pin for 3 seconds
- Leave iron on soldered pin for 1 second and then remove
Also, remember to clean up the soldered side of your PCB after you are done with some Isopropyl alcohol and a soft bristled brush. You can dab it dry with a microfiber towel.
You’ll end up with results going from. something like this:
…to something like THIS!:
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I ordered SA Ramses… everything… light and dark from MKB.eu for 50% off. I couldn’t pass up the sale. I was able to resist GMK Star, but I really love the colors of Ramses.
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Applying solder for 3 THREE! Seconds!!? Are you crazy or are you using solder with the thickness of a spiderweb? 
This is the stuff I use and I have to say, I’ve never had an issue with it.
I’d also like to think that my results of the technique use speak for themselves, but every one is welcomed to their own opinions, of course…
I can’t seem to find the original tutorial I used when I started soldering switches, but it was similar to this:
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Perhaps the most common mistake with soldering is to use a (cheap) soldering iron of too low wattage, which results in too long soldering times.
I use a plain 60W Weller iron with piezo-magnetic bang-bang temperature regulation in the tip.
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I am pleased with my Pinecil smart soldering iron. Satisfactory performance from a 65W USB-C power supply, tho it helped to swap the default pointy tip for a chisel shaped tip to make it easier to get a decent thermal contact.
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It’s just the amount of time I got a issue with, and 3sec is a long time in this case, just saying 1,2,3 takes about 1sec.
Decided to jump in on the Monokei Kei V2 pre-order.
Went PC top and bottom and added the Singa Kohaku backplate so that I can build my Copium Kohaku, as I will likely never have the real thing.
They offer it in both 60% and 65% and have both MX and EC PCB options for both.
I already have the Class60 in EC on order, so I went 65% with both the EC and MX soldered plates.
Kind of excited for this build 
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Just finished the OG doubleshot collection I think. Not 100% sure if this has doubleshots or dye subs, but I’m heavily leaning towards doubleshots from the looks. I couldn’t read the full product code on the back sticker. If they are doubleshots though I’ll now have a ANSI 1800 set of them, a full ISO QWERTZ set of them, & a full ANSI set! Took me awhile to find them at reasonable pricing, but I managed it!
Edit: Almost forgot I ordered 2 of Archetypes logo blanks in their flash sale last night too!
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