What did you order or think about ordering?

Gearing up for building my Frog 8K, finally got the shipping notice for it today! Figured I’d grab a TX AP stab set to see if they are better than the last rev., also needed some springs & Geon’s are a fantastic value! Just wish they had 15mm ones, but I can deal with 18mm at lighter weights. Now I gotta figure out what switches to use with it. I’m tempted to use the rest of my new nixies, but I do have a really good batch of oil kings & a bunch of other switches I’ve been meaning on giving a try in a build. Thankfully I went with the 7u hotswap PCB for the 8K!


mykeyboard.eu is doing a sale at the moment, 50% off on some items, to lower their inventory.

Ordered 100 8008 Ink blacks, 300 gateron whites, and 2 deskmats.


I had a ton of stuff in my cart that I really want, but I just don’t need. There are so many upcoming group buys that I’m interested in. Grrr…

But I did think about GMK Watermelon and GMK Star and GMK Baltic. Had them in my cart. Never checked out.


I am not a fan of Kickstarter, but on the very last day I could not resist to pledge for a Oshid Amber keycap set in OSA profile.

Being a bit of a night owl hacker, I like low lighting conditions to keep my melatonin levels up. I think I might get around with only the light of my monitor and an RGB-lit transparent keyboard. We will see (or not) :see_no_evil:


There is also the lame excuse that electricity prices in Europe are going through the roof (~ 50 €c/kWh), but it will take a while to amortise the costs of the keycaps and possibly a new keyboard. :rofl:


That is a pretty slick ideal to have the legends embedded in the key. Shame it doesn’t have support for tsangan bottom row though. If it did I would probably jump on too.

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Decided to give a JC Studios set a shot since they have Desko (has keys to fill in the nav cluster on the 8k) & the price is great (well if the quality is good it is a great price). Then grabbed some building & modding materials I need while I was at it. I’ll let you guys know how good or bad the dyesub work on the JC Studios set is when I get it later this week. I’m assuming the blanks are good because they are XMI blanks & the consensus seems to be they are good quality. Fingers crossed I didn’t waste money on them!


They appear to be same keysets as Brother Leek keyset I recently ordered through Superbuy. If they’re using XMI blanks then you may need to polish top surface and edges like I had to before. While perfectly usable as is, I prefer smoother texture and rounded edges.


As long as the dyesub work is good & there is no bunk caps (bent space bar, caps that sit crooked, etc. I’d be fine with a heavier texture, although I may do the same as I also prefer smoother keys with more rounded corners. Thanks for the heads up bud!

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What’s your plan for the 206g0?


Stabs mostly, but I also want to try it on on some linear switches to see if there is any difference vs 205g0.

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I ordered an Iron180 from mykeyboard.eu for 50% off. This is going to be my first time soldering so I am a bit nervous but I plan on making this keyboard my endgame.


Hopefully my keyboard.eu has cleaned up their act… :grimacing:

When you get it in, feel free to hit up any number of folks on here for soldering tips. I would just say to make sure you go with a good quality 63/37 solder (I prefer Kester), heat your iron to 335 °C, and follow the “5 second” or “1-3-1” rule:

  • Iron to pin for 1 second
  • Apply solder to pin for 3 seconds
  • Leave iron on soldered pin for 1 second and then remove

Also, remember to clean up the soldered side of your PCB after you are done with some Isopropyl alcohol and a soft bristled brush. You can dab it dry with a microfiber towel.

You’ll end up with results going from. something like this:

…to something like THIS!:


I ordered SA Ramses… everything… light and dark from MKB.eu for 50% off. I couldn’t pass up the sale. I was able to resist GMK Star, but I really love the colors of Ramses.

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Applying solder for 3 THREE! Seconds!!? Are you crazy or are you using solder with the thickness of a spiderweb? :upside_down_face::thinking::smirk:

This is the stuff I use and I have to say, I’ve never had an issue with it. :thinking:

I’d also like to think that my results of the technique use speak for themselves, but every one is welcomed to their own opinions, of course…

I can’t seem to find the original tutorial I used when I started soldering switches, but it was similar to this:


Perhaps the most common mistake with soldering is to use a (cheap) soldering iron of too low wattage, which results in too long soldering times.

I use a plain 60W Weller iron with piezo-magnetic bang-bang temperature regulation in the tip.

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I am pleased with my Pinecil smart soldering iron. Satisfactory performance from a 65W USB-C power supply, tho it helped to swap the default pointy tip for a chisel shaped tip to make it easier to get a decent thermal contact.


It’s just the amount of time I got a issue with, and 3sec is a long time in this case, just saying 1,2,3 takes about 1sec.

Decided to jump in on the Monokei Kei V2 pre-order.

Went PC top and bottom and added the Singa Kohaku backplate so that I can build my Copium Kohaku, as I will likely never have the real thing.

They offer it in both 60% and 65% and have both MX and EC PCB options for both.

I already have the Class60 in EC on order, so I went 65% with both the EC and MX soldered plates.

Kind of excited for this build :grin::+1:


Just finished the OG doubleshot collection I think. Not 100% sure if this has doubleshots or dye subs, but I’m heavily leaning towards doubleshots from the looks. I couldn’t read the full product code on the back sticker. If they are doubleshots though I’ll now have a ANSI 1800 set of them, a full ISO QWERTZ set of them, & a full ANSI set! Took me awhile to find them at reasonable pricing, but I managed it!

Edit: Almost forgot I ordered 2 of Archetypes logo blanks in their flash sale last night too!
Archetype caps

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