It’s probably gonna be super expensive, but that Matrix Faukwaa TKL is pretty slick IMO. Although I am a big sucker for Cherry lips on boards! 
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Same! It looks like the Matrix is $620 and the Tohsi is $650 with the wristrest and $530 w/o it…ugh, I’ll probably close all my tabs and forget about it haha
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Ordered F12/F13 combo hotswap Bastion TKL PCB from CannonKeys. F12 version was out so I had to spend the extra dollar for combo version.
AFAIK it’s a drop in replacement for Hiney’s h87 or h88 PCBs but 
.
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Ordered Sally Hansen “Good Kind Pure” clear nail polish to see if it can tighten loose keycaps and contact leaves. PTFE tape works but it’s tedious to apply.
My wife tells me all nail polishes will chip sooner or later. So the risk of chips slipping into switches is real but I wanted to find out first-hand.
Another solution is to use grease but don’t want to risk them leaking out on hot days. Not yet anyway.
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Besides durability concerns (the possibility of chipping that you mention), another issue with nail polish may be that it could be tricky (and/or tedious) to consistently apply with the same level of thickness each time.
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Could be but I like to try things when cost of trying is cheap. For $8 and a few unused keycaps, I’ll learn something.
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Thinking about chipping, I wonder how a tiny dab of rubber cement would do, maybe applied with a syringe / pipette?
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I think a long metal pin or needle should work well. Just dip to get a drop at the tip and touch to transfer.
It’s been 5 days and no sign of chipping but ‘nail-polished’ keycaps have started feeling loose again, not as much as before though.
Not sure about rubber cement. Crazy glue should work though.
UPDATE: Searched for ‘best glue for rubber to plastic’ turned up quite a few options that I wasn’t aware of before. More research fodder.
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Thinking about trying this next. Safe against plastic. Could get tedious though if it needs multiple coats each time keycaps are displaced.
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Ordered some more 58g Super Long 2-stage springs from CannonKeys. Perfect activation/bottom weights for me, very chewy top weight, reasonable pricing, and Korean steel quality is at top of the spring game.
Spring Math: With Cream Soda on space bar, each Tsangan board just needs 61 springs (I use the heavy copper-tinted Nixie spring on spacebar). 61 x 9 = 549 so I just need 5 bags of springs (110 each) to fill 9 60% boards with just one spring leftover. Not really worth fussing over but feels good doing it.
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Don, I’ve become curious about the Korean 2-stage springs.
58 G 18-22mm springs already proved great for Zealio V1R spacebars.
But I’m interested in something a little more mild.
Some websites list the SP Meteor Orange spring as a 57 G 2-stage “long” spring. Others list it as a regular 57 G 14mm spring. It might be Korean, given SP Star’s manufacture.
Do you happen to know what kind of spring the Meteor Orange uses, and could you recommend a 2-stage spring for similar switches? I find that Meteor Orange has a pleasant weight, better than any aftermarket spring I’ve tried in an MX Brown.
I don’t have that switch so, other than vendor specs, no idea, but I’d be careful about using long springs with tactiles, particularly those with bump at the top bc longer spring will also add to the top. With light tactiles, I prefer single-stage unless one of the multi-stage feels better.
Some notes on tactiles (that I can think of before lunch):
- Using long springs (18~23mm) with tactiles is complicated due to the bump. Light tactiles don’t need much bounce since they don’t need much force to get over the bump.
- Tactile bump effectively lengthens key travel. Not by much but enough to notice.
And a parting quip:
Extending what we know or have is a lot easier than exploring new areas.
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Its… Perfect… (For me)
My only gripe is that there isn’t no colon key, or option for one, the enter key can be shrunk for one (but thats not an option for this one :c ).
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How could I have done this? I’m not even intoxicated!
Another “hide from the wife” box. Man, my closet is already full of those.
And that shipping hurts 
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Nice, the 70F is a really sweet board, I’m super happy with mine. I haven’t tried the sandwich mount, but I don’t see it being all that different in feel or sound from the PCB gasket mount. It’s a non traditional type of gasketing (gasket blocks that go on tabs of the PCB) which actually makes for a pretty stiff feel on it. It’s nice though, feels like a good OG top mount IMO. Then being able to run it in southpaw or normal layout is very cool too. I think grabbing one at $99 offsets the shipping enough to be worth it. Let us know what you think once you get it in bud!
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That’s the exact one I went for. It’s not even my Christmas keyboard… I planned for one new keyboard a year. T now three are coming in the next few months. Man this hobby…. (I mean me really).
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I ordered a 110 milky yellows because I saw them for ten bucks on Amazon resale…
then almost immediately canceled because I’m a kaiju who can’t abide light linears.
Otherwise, I’ve just been trawling for interesting value-priced vintage on eBay, which generally means wading through piles of Chicony and Keytronic membrane OEM boards, researching every substantial-looking no-name, and reminding myself I don’t want to mess around with retrobright. I also haven’t been motivated to pull the trigger on anything full size since I already have my Model M’s floating around.
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Got in on the cheap Space Cables caps at Omintype! I was going back & forth between ordering these at full price from Space before they hit this rough patch they’re in, so getting all that for $54 (excluding the lube & stabs) is steal! I figure this stuff isn’t gonna get any cheaper during BF/CM so I figured order now before they’re gone LOL!
Also I am grabbing a new, never built black Rd.2 FLX Virgo from a guy on r/mm for $500. I’ve always wanted one, but the almost $800 after shipping & taxes for a A stock one new from Antipode is a tough pill to swallow. All the pics look good, no flaws to be seen on the case or weight. It comes with the matching wrist rest, 2 unused solder PCBs, a alum plate, & the hard shell case too. I know $500 to $450 is going rate for 2nd hand Virgos, but that’s usually ones that have been built & used. So the deal feels solid to me for a board I have always really liked & wanted.
Edit:
I also ordered some HMX Snow crash & BSUN waves from Unikeys. Curious as to how a rail bottom out HMX switch will do & curious of the stem material in the waves.
Man I’m spending too much, but its always tough to stop once you get going! Figured I might as get my order in for @Piperaceae’s awesome set DCS Smrt while I have the extra cash also.
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