Hyperfuse yes, but the DCX version
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DARN, I was so close lol. I kept going back and forth between DCX and GMK. I can differentiate the two cuz DCX has a thinner font compared to GMK but was hoping I could tell the difference between the two from your picture.
Ha, hard mode - only one alpha visible
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I completely missed that you got those snap-springs into a board! How do you like them?
I really like them a lot.
It was a bit of a hassle using them together with a plate, since their bottom housing is so much shallower, that the stabilizers don’t fit under the plate anymore.
That’s why I had to solder all the switches about 1mm “floating” above the PCB, with the stabilizers as some kind of “spacer” to define the distance.
But it worked out well in the end.
I think that Outemu should build standard size switches with that mechanism, keeping all the good properties their original low profile switches already have.
Because the so-called “improved” version, named GTMX (thought out by MKUltra, and built by Outemu as far as I know), is far inferior. It adresses the shallow bottom-housing challenge, but the sound and feel is really worse.
Another thing I realise while typing on them right now:
Well-made clicky switches are damn amazing and satisfying to type on!
I’m happy that I ordered 150 of them, so I have another 60% or 65% with them in the pipeline.
This time plateless.
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~Another~ KBD67L configuration
Most of the times I post one of these, it’s actually the same PCB & stabs with the case, switches, caps, and sometimes plate switched out. Today’s clothes:
- BredWorks FR4 plate
- Gateron Melodics
- NK_ Cherry Stone
- Orange case from R3
This photo really can’t do justice how loud this orange is. You might be able to see a very slight dye-sub goof around the Enter key legend; it’s subtle but it looks a bit like stencil bleed-over. That minor nitpick is the only not-nice thing I have to say about this keyset - among the best $15 I’ve spent. (I live for those NK_ clearance sales, baby)
The switches are Gateron’s new leaf-clickies. They’re a touch heavy for me, but when I can get into a grove with them they’re so satisfying.
Recording of and thoughts on the switches as they appear in this build here
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What’s that? Another KBD67L configuration?
You bet it is!
Today I’m giving Durock Sea Glass and NK’s PBT Cherry Sand keyset a try, along with my trusty POM plate and R1 black case.
Too soon to have any developed thoughts - but they’re smooth, and have a medium weighting and mellow sound that I like. It really is all about the aesthetics with these, but being legitimately good linears makes for a nice bonus, I think.
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I promise I’m not trying to monopolize this thread, I just have switch ADD:
Tecsee Blue Sky Sun tactiles*
These aren’t new, and I don’t think you can even buy them anymore - but I realized I’ve had them for two years and I’m not sure I’ve even tried them yet.
I think they’re on the better side of on-par for Tecsee two years ago; that is: I think they feel great and sound OK - at least stock.
If a clean sound doesn’t matter that much to you, I’d say these are ready to rock from the box. The big top-bump is satisfying, and I don’t feel any grain. I think pretty much any and all negative feelings I have about these revolve around the somewhat inconsistent wiggly metallic sounds they make - not unlike other Tecsees.
There’s a hint of dry-ish rattle to the impact, but this is well mitigated by the material choice alone and isn’t enough to bug me on its own, and certainly not enough to stop me from enjoying these switches.
*The name:
they are definitely Tecsee’s Blue Sky switches, which where sold outside of the Drop sale I got these in - however, this specific variant with the yellow UHMWPE stems isn’t one I’ve seen elsewhere.
I’ve only seen the white POM-stemmed versions, sold on the Drop page as the “Cloud” variant. But what are these? “Stars” or “Suns”? Going by the variant I bought on the page, Stars - but looking more closely, not everything lines-up on that page - including the color choice.
It’s certainly trivial given I’ve only ever seen this switch variant on one sales page with inconsistent info, but I’m a good 95% sure these yellow-stemmed switches (with 0.5mm longer poles than the rest) were intended as the “Sun” variant, with the pale-gold ones being the “Star” variants.
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After a rebuild, I’m pleased to have my June on the desk today and to actually enjoy using it. Previously, I only used it a day or two before putting it on the shelf.
I didn’t like the way the Black Sesame v2 switches felt in it. Which is strange because I have the v1 switches in another board and like them a lot. Maybe it was the difference in mounting method. I don’t recall the difference between v1 and v2 switches. Maybe they have a different spring?
I also fixed an annoying space bar stabilizer issue. Turns out it was another case of lube getting under the stabilizer stem. This lead to slightly sticking at the bottom. The result felt very much like a warped space bar. I’m rather pleased to find it was something I could just disassemble and wipe clean.
Rebuilt with nyogel on the stabilizer wire and CIY Naraka switches. I like this combo a lot. 100% improvement rebuild and a big success.
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Another successful rework of a board. This is the fourth time I’ve rebuilt my frog mini, and the first time I like the results.
This time I added plate foam (foam between PCB and plate) and lubed Gateron Slay type A linears. Topped off with HSA keycaps.
Very happy with the results. Another board that normally just sits in its case has become a pleasant typing experience
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Looks the same as past pics, except for stepped Caps, but I rebuilt my Salvation plateless with an H60 and TTC Aces. Been typing on it today and very pleased with the results.
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This one just moved from workbench to desk today. No stabilizers 98%. DIY as much as is practical for my “workshop.” Handwired, 3D printed case, bespoke 102-key layout, laser dye-sub XDA keycaps (more on that below), laser cut “Masonite” plate, Kailh Box Jade, KMK on an RP2040.
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It’s early obviously, but I’m optimistic about this one. It feels pretty nice, and the Jades are almost as nice as the Navies, just missing that slight “kerchunk!” that the Navies have. The Jades are a bit snappier, and I agree that they may be ever so slightly louder, but I don’t think they dethrone my dark blue fingerbreakers.
After my last set of keycaps came out with some fairly obvious alignment issues, I rethought my jig and made a new one that could support 26 1u keys, plus one of arbitrary width. I also went with corner legends instead of centered, as that punishes a lack of accuracy much less, if you can at least get your setup repeatable. Then, I did clusters together in batches (i.e. all alphas in one run, all F keys together, etc.). The result is a much less jarring alignment situation. It would be ideal, if the plastic itself had cooperated. This PBT recipe didn’t like the infusible ink nearly as much as the DSA keycaps on my other no-stabs build. Legends are not as crisp as I’d like, and the colors are pretty muted, but the improved alignment makes this a modest victory.
Overall, I like (though not quite love) the way they came out, and the overall effect for the board, between the layout, case, and font, is a bit “Apple meets Logitech circa 2004,” which may or may not be a good thing, but it’s always satisfying to wrap one of these up.
More pics:
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I keep a Tofu with pbt keycaps on my desk as my daily driver and pull my more expensive/GMK builds out for enjoyment only. Am I the only one who does this?
Tofu Redux + NK Taro + Oil Kings
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Oh that’s sick. How’d you reroute the trace? Got pics?
Cool mouse. 
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I definitely have daily drivers with less precious bits that get a lot more miles than my aesthetic favorites
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