Only red. Less is more. First Alice board that I see with sufficient keys for my needs.
3 Likes
I’d say only red or only blue. That board is lovely, but it makes a statement all its own and I don’t think mix & match is necessary.
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Agree with the others on less is more - only red or no accents and probably only blue would look good too if you’re up for it!
1 Like
Thanks! Only red it is 
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- Play Keyboard Iced Cora 60% case
- GMK MTNU Modern Dolch Light keycaps
- Lichicx Lucy v2 switches
Impressions of the Lucy switches is mixed. Posts and reviews I read said they don’t feel rubbery/mushy but tbh they feel like a strange linear/rubber dome hybrid. If one presses slowly on a single key it feels like a linear but when actually typing fast there’s a ‘lump’ feeling at the end of each depress (a handful of the switches have less of this feeling than others). Jarring coming from like 13 years of using regular linears (the last switches I used were KTT Mint).
However they’re so much quieter that I’m seeing how much I like them over a longer period. I feel all mechanical switches should be this low noise, it’s lovely.
The MTNU profile is curious. On the first day I was randomly hitting certain wrong keys since was used to fingers catching the sharper edges of Cherry caps. I think the R2 angle is less unusual than I was anticipating. I use WASD for arrow keys so wasn’t sure how much of an issue it’d be but so far it’s been okay.
One disappointing aspect of the keycaps is it seems to use a softer PBT plastic than a cheap set I bought like a decade ago, which caused some dents/marring of the corners of one of the grey keycaps when pulled with a wire keycap puller, which I’ve never experienced before.
Looking around here I read someone use dental floss to avoid this, which I’ll have to try.
9 Likes
Rebuilt my Graveyard TKL (9.5lbs!) in preparation to sell it.
CannonKeys early keycap sets used a font that’s a little too thick for my taste but the set complimented the board nicely.
Almost opened a new package of GMK Retrocast for it, but since I’m letting this one go I decided not to.
14 Likes
That’s some chonky bezels here !
1 Like
I always wanted a Jer 80. This will have to keep me content until one comes up for sale.
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Oh wow, that’s just another nail in the coffin for me then. That really would be just a joke for something expensive as GMK sells their stuff.
Hey you got a little extra bezel on your bezel there
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Here is my built F1-8X V2, typing on it at the moment
The side view of this board is gorgeous!
I may switch keycaps later, GMK Lunar will do for the moment.
It sounds quite a lot deeper than I thought it would originally, surprising but nice!
I guess it will depend on switches you’ll select for the build (mine are Gateron Inks 8008).
Another surprise the bounce due to the leaf springs is there but is contained, I mean by that is that it is not a trampoline but still you feel a tiny bit vibration and then feedback each time you press a key: the feel is solid and soft at the same time, a very nice balance !
As for the comparision with my Aquanaut (behind on the first shot):
The Aquanaut is higher pitched and a tad bouncier (still not a trampoline).
Also as they have more or less the same viton oring isolation type I was curious to see if there was similarities in term of unwanted case resonance, and they do !
This is a very intereresting property that the F1-8X and the Aquanaut share: not only the orings isolate the plate/PCB assembly to the case, it also deaden any resonance that usually come from the top case (and that you commonly eliminate by doing a force break).
Just tap with your fingernails everywhere on the top case (with the keyboard fully assembled) and you will hear absolutely no metallic resonance, it is just like you are tapping on hard wood !
This is THE reason the F1-8X is known to sound so good in my opinion; for people that will have their own board I beg you to do this simple test yourself, this is shoking!
This board is a banger !
12 Likes
Still got the F1 on my desk. Haven’t had a chance to make any changes to my initial build yet, but I did decide to see how some PBT caps sounded with the Keygeek Oats + alum. plate & man do they sound good! Definitely deepens the sound up considerably compared the ABS DCS set I had on it originally, but the Oats being a pole bottom out still gives it a nice & bright sound overall. The mix of creamy, deeper sounding mods with brighter alphas hits in a really cool way IMO. The more I use it the more I see why everyone has been raving about the F1-8X since it first came out! I’d like to get my hands on a OG F1-8X or 722 to see how the V2 differs from them, but nonetheless this one of the few boards I’ve ever gotten that actually lives up to the hype!
9 Likes
Divinikey × Modokeys Tess65
- MTNU Rascals
- Gateron Type-R tactiles*
- Designer Studio Adaptive stabilizers
- Polypropylene plate
- Tadpole-style gaskets & all foams
@ThereminGoat since you asked a while back what I planned on mounting Rascals to; not the most premium chassis out there, but punches way above its weight in terms of price, and I think the creamy beige looks gorgeous with these keys.
A few more photos
I love this. Really vibing with the color combination.
I also really appreciate a nice, intentional-looking seam - but you want to know something funny? It’s purely decorative! The actual seam is hidden on the bottom.
The badge, with matching weight on the underside (not shown).
The PP plate, Type-Rs, and Designer Studio Adaptive stabilizers in all their glory.
Build notes
Generally speaking the build was quite easy, though it was a little challenging getting the final screws in-place, if only because they kept falling off of the tool, down into the case. It’s a pretty smart and straightforward construction with two mounting options; gasket (tadpole style) and top (with optional pads). There are plenty of layout options with the PCB and nothing was too complicated. It was a little fiddly getting the case foam in place with the ribbon cable, but not bad.
*So far my only real complaint about this build is that the Gateron Type-Rs seem to be chattering fairly often. 
I’m otherwise loving typing on them (and love the sound they make in this build), but I don’t think I’ll keep using them because of all the double inputs. (I had to edit lots of them out of this post, and there still might be some.) 
I’ll report back if it ends up being this keyboard, but in my experience it’s pretty much always the switches when this happens.
Since the Type-Rs aren’t full 4mm travel switches, I used some of UPKB’s spacers (as usual) to prevent any potential teetering on the stabilizers:
I’m currently using the tadpole-style gaskets, but decided to go ahead and apply the top-mount pads just in case:
A few minor complaints;
A.) The plate foam sticks out at the bottom where the stabs screw-in, so I just tucked it in there. It makes a slight bow in the super-soft polypropylene plate, but that’s only visible from the side like this:
B.) I’m not a big fan of sideways switches, usually done to accommodate both ISO and ANSI enter keys on the same PCB, but it actually seems to work fine here:
Edit: the pipe key does sit a little tilted; I might try swapping-in a Roller switch and see if that helps.
C.) Also not the biggest fan of flipped switches vs the rest of the row, usually done to accommodate both Tsangan and standard bottom rows on the same PCB - but again, it seems to work fine here:
D.) I had an issue when installing the Designer Studio Adaptive stabilizers, in that the left side of both the Backspace and Left Shift didn’t want to seat-in. It turns out that these slots are close enough to some hot-swap sockets to interfere (bottom-left corner of photo below). This might not happen with every model of stab, and it was also easy enough to fix in this case; I simply took a utility knife and sliced a bit off of the hooked stud that interfered with the socket, shown below - modded version closer to the camera:
Modded stab in-place; I probably could have gotten away with shaving-off less than I did, but it works great:
Un-modded stab in-place; here you can see the rounded side sitting flush with the circular slot:
Crusty utility knife with the two + test shaving bits still on it:
Overall a fun build that I’m really satisfied with, especially considering the price of the kit; $75 as-configured. Just gonna need to find some more suitable switches…
8 Likes
Silver/Orange Luminkey LX60
Lumberjack PCB /w Gateron Pro Yellow
GMK Yuri
After a little fun and games, I’ve managed to fit the Lumberjack into the LX60. I’m using a custom plate to enable the gasket mount, and a FFC connector daughterboard to bridge between the LX60s daugherboard and the Lumberjack’s JST connector.
I got the silver/orange specifically to go with GMK Yuri and I’m pretty pleased with the combination.
10 Likes
Unicomp? And some of those keycaps have seen some stuff, man. 
Love it.
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H’yes. I stole them from my grandma’s house after she died–for free. It’s almost as though I’m typing on her dead skin cells! :DDD
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You’re gonna catch a whopping in the here after… 
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Everyone’s grieving process is different. This is different.
4 Likes