What Lube/Lubes Does Everyone?

Looks like Nyogel comes in a few varieties - which do you use for stabs? The description of the product in general does make it sound suitable.

I’d go with 767A. This is the exact product I bought from Amazon. When applying, less is most definitely more.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084H9CDLJ

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So would you say that Nyogel does a good job at mitigating tick?

The XHT-BDZ is interesting, at least. I used a pretty thin coat, much less than I normally would with dielectric grease but more than I would use on something like a switch stem. I did get some ticking back in a few keys, but it definitely helped.

I wonder if the “t” stands for titanium - that stuff is very white.

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Oh totally. It’s like tacky, maybe even sticky 205g2. It’s really weird. Anything it comes in contact with, it’ll leave a tacky residue on it. Since it’s best to apply it with a syringe, you can make sure it gets exactly where you need it to go, and more importantly, stay there. Also, this stuff won’t drip onto your PCB since you apply so little.

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Awesome! That sounds pretty ideal - I went ahead and picked up a tube.

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I bought a ton of 3204 a long time ago so I just use that for everything (except stabsand springs) because I have so much. I use christolube for stabs and tri-flow for springs because I always have tri-flow around for my bike

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Subject lines that make sense to Hobbyists but might land the board in strange google search queries…

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I’ve been using the XHT-BDZ for a week or two now, and it’s definitely worn-off a fair bit. It’s definitely better than nothing, but at least the way I applied it, not sufficient to defeat the ticking.

That other stuff I ordered is supposed to be in tomorrow - looking forward to trying that.

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Any update on the “sticky 205g0” lube stuff? Kinda raising the dead here, but thought I’d ask.

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I’ve used a little so far, and “sticky” is a pretty good description in terms of it clinging to surfaces.

With 100 series oils, they sit in a pool at the bottom of the tub with maybe a sheen on the walls. If you wipe your brush on the rim it will flow down to the pool.

200 series grease more or less stays where you put it with flow observable over time rather in the moment; if you glom some on the side it will pretty much stay there, maybe eventually make its way down while more or less retaining its shape.

The mix behaves like one; it maintains a smooth pool that immediately responds to gravity like 100 oil, but it’s more viscous and moves more slowly.

There’s an even, smooth, and fairly thick coating of the stuff on the walls of the tub - it definitely has flow and responds to gravity, but it seems like when it gets down to a certain thickness / mass / whatever it has enough viscosity to stay put until otherwise acted-on.

Wiping your brush on the rim will make a smooth blob that eventually homogenizes into what’s stuck to the walls.

If what I’m seeing there translates to behavior in switches, well - I think I can see why :3ildcat has been using a 100 / 200 mix for all these years.


So far I’ve only used it to smoothen-up some stabs, but I do intend to do my next batch of switches with it, so I’ll definitely let you know how that goes.

It did a fine job of making the stabs smooth but isn’t thick enough to stand up to stab rattle like thick greases are. It does seem like it would be great for switch springs and rails though.

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Thank you! Gonna experiment with mixes now.

The mixes do work well & feel great IME, the big drawback is though, that mixes will separate over time if the board is left unused for any decent period of time.

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