good video. I have Zial stabilizers. there are no problems with them.
only that friction is at the top.
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that looks to be your answer about the stabs.Not trying to spam this thread, I just happen to be working on one of these right now - one more note about the OA stabs and MT3:
They will stress your cap stems. 
None appear broken but you can see the stress marks at the corners and even shavings inside the stem.
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Hmm, MT3 or OA stab problem you think?
Damn, does this mean that the Aurora doesn’t play nice with the MT3 profile? I literally bought a BoW set just for this keeb lmao
Yes.
That is, a little bit of both - at least with the clearance stuff. MT3 is a little larger at the bottom than most caps, and OA stabs allow for what appears to me to be a bit more than average twist.
As for the stressed cap-stems, I think that’s more just an OA stab issue - they feel really tight in caps.
@inter unfortunately I think the answer there is yes, but that doesn’t mean they won’t work at all - you just might have to do some sanding like I am to address any contact. I’m looking to finish this over the weekend, and I’ll post results when it’s done.
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Sorry if I’m asking for too much, but have you tried different profiles to check if the issue is persistent?
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When I get the board put together I’ll let you know about other profiles. I ended up with a different space bar getting cracked, but it looks like that may have been down to my shaky hands during removal and not purely from any stems, as all three including the center switch one cracked. The OA stabs do seem pretty tight on other caps so far either way.
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I’m actually rebuilding the whole board again so I haven’t tried different caps yet, but I can confirm a method that worked for me to resolve the issue:
Aside from burnishing the small amount of flash on the bottom edges of the caps (flattening the thin ridge of plastic that sticks out), I made sure to gently pull the bezel outwards when tightening the two middle screws.
I did this on both long-edge bezels, being sure to only tighten the screws enough so they won’t back-out - they don’t need to be very tight at all thanks to the many threads and gaskets adding tension.
I did take a comparison photo of an MT3 cap vs a Cherry profile IFK one, and they are a hair taller from front to back:
All edges are flush aside from what’s sticking out there - between that fraction of a mm and the natural warping of polycarb, these caps rub on that case until you take a step or two to prevent it.
Edit: as for the stab rotation issue, I have some info on that in the MT3 ‘rubbing’ thread.
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For the R2, what is the difference between the flex-cut plates? This will be my first flexy board, and I’m not sure what I’m looking at.
I can’t speak to those exact plates but I can give you some general info to work with.
Softer material tends to mean more flex and a deeper sound, with harder materials being at the opposite end. From soft to hard:
POM > PC (polycarbonate) > FR4 (circuit board stuff) > carbon fiber > aluminum > brass
POM is super soft, brass is rock hard, and the rest is on the spectrum in-between.
Flex cuts will make plates and PCBs more flexible (surprise!), but probably won’t change the sound pitch at all - they might cut down on clack sharpness.
The Ikki68 is actually a great platform to experiment with this stuff because of all the options; 5 pcbs including 2 thinner ones and one with flex cuts, and then what, 6 plate materials? If you’re really curious I’d suggest picking a couple plates and messing around.
Hard plates unsurprisingly feel hard; this means they can be satisfyingly solid but potentially fatiguing. Very soft plates can take all the edge off and add to comfort, but too soft and you might loose some speed to the soft bounciness. My two personal favorites are PC and FR4.
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I picked up an extra Ikki68 the other day and had a question. Did anyone use a wireless PCB with the silicon plate pad? It seems to be incompatible because the switch for the wireless mode is on the face of the PCB and there isn’t a cutout on the pad for it. Do people just cut the pad?
EDIT- just read the build guide, and yes, you do cut it. 
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