I thought there weren’t going to be any more runs of the heavy grail?
That is correct. We do have some parts left around the workshop, however, and will be able to offer some more R2 Grails after we assemble the existing orders and have a better sense of the final numbers.
Depends on your goal. I’m sure we have some reject housings from the original runs that could be stripped of powder coat.
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In for an enigma black to match my original norbaforce, was so tempted to get a K2 as well to match my heavy grail but pricing put it a little out of reach.
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Teach me.
That “any” key is so good. Is it topre stemmed or are you using an MX-compatible slider?
I believe it’s MT3 Susuwatari
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The top row do look an awful lot like Susuwatari, but the numpad keycaps themselves look like Topre High Profile.
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Ended up prepping my 23u to a 21u to make it more aligned with a fullsize keyboard layout numpad. Super easy job, just need to dremel the plate, the pcb already has contact points for the 2u’s.
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Could you explain a little more? I haven’t opened up a 23U in a couple years. Are you just aligning the domes in between the 2 white circles on the pcb?
I opened one a few weeks ago, and my 23U has 3 white green circles occupying that space, the outer two of which each have their own conical spring and dome. So you could simply remove one of each spring and dome, and move the other to occupy the central white green circle. This configuration would allow you to use a 2u 0 keycap, provided that you have one.
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do you mind posting a photo of the plate-- both sides? i would very much like to get a plate made that has native 2u 0 cut for it instead of butchering my stock one
Do you know which inputs the split enter would be?
Simpler that it may seem.
Its just removing the part of the plate between the 1u’s.
I ended up using 2u housings that i harvested from a realforce, but you can also just use 1u housings.
With the 2u housings it will align your dome and spring nicely that you dont have to worry about alignment on the pcb. If youre using a 1u you may need to spend more time making sure its all alinged. Let me know if that answers all your questions!
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swapped in Novatouch sliders for the top row and use MT3 Susuwatari for it.
@Frost you’ll need a HiPro board to donate the housing and keycaps, plus cutting the 23u plate to fit 2u housing on the 0/Ins and + key
for those interested, pls refer to this oldie but goodie of the thread from GH Realforce 23U Internals. There are clear shots (both sides) of the PCB and daughterboard.
I can confirm the following key output after my own modification - “Before” → “After”
- “0/Ins” (17A) AND “00/000” (18) → “0/Ins” (17B)
- “+” (12A) AND “-” (8) → “+” (12B)
Which means my mod and @pohpoh are now missing the “-” key output, can confirm or have you found a workaround?
this is a fantastic question. I haven’t found any literature on this and have not tested it myself. Given the logic observed above my guess would be:
- “Enter” (16B) → “???” (20) AND “Enter” (16A)
The 23u can becomes all 1u, i.e. 24u - that would be great for a MX-stem swap
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I actually looked at that thread and saw that the top portion of the enter would be enter but 20 no idea WTF 20 is lol.
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I’m currently away from home so can’t test myself but told a friend about it and he will try out this 24u config. will report back once I get info from him 
Hey mate, can confirm you do lose the - functionality by default.
There are a few potential work around that could work.
One being the use of a drop in pcb thst would make the numpad via or qmk compat. I’ve heard a few whispers of folks in the community working on this.
Another option would be using a hasu usb to usb controller. My findings with this have been mixed as PFU use macros for many of the numpad outputs. For example the = sign outputs a macro of the previously inputted numbers instead of a standard = sign. This makes it difficult to reprogram, but others may have had more luck than I.
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