I’m trying to be so financially responsible, but the urge to colour-match my norbaforce and computer is strong …
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Can’t believe Y2K-era Apple was resurrected yesterday to body us like this.
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down for a motorsport norbaforce.
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I just dropped a batch of in-stock Norbaforces that I’ve been working on for months. All inspection, assembly, and fulfillment is now done in-house here at Norbauer & Co. in Los Angeles, so this should be the most rigorously quality-controlled batch of product we’ve shipped to date. I’m really happy with our new process.
Here is a little video to celebrate:
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Happy to see these in stock. I won’t be buying another just now, but I feel like I can sleep better at night knowing that there will be more Norbauer boards in the days to come 
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Loved the video. Reminds me of those artisan commercials and was just waiting for some suave narrator to narrate it over.
I’m not sure when the last run of the poly realforces was, but will they be ran again too?
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The last batch was this Christmas, and they’re actually just about to ship this week, so I wouldn’t expect another batch anytime soon (or at all, frankly). And, unfortunately, I don’t think we have any extras.
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do you have any plan for a WKL Tactical Black? I’m looking for a Norbaforce (and also a Heavy 6) of this colorway.
May the divines give me the strength to resist (or, inevitably, the capacity to forgive my weakness).
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Why am I so tempted to pick up another Norbaforce when there’s no logical reason for me to buy one?
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right? like i already have two and couldn’t possible need another one…
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I mean… I have 4 norbatouches, 1 norbaforce, 3 heavy 6s, and I’m awaiting a heavy 9 and heavy grail… yet, here I am… looking at that stock and having to convice myself not to buy.
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Good thing for my wallet that retro fridge isn’t an option this go around.
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I’m sorry to say that I won’t. The WKL usually only ever sold in very small numbers but the machine shop charges a lot to add an additional fixturing setup in order to produce it, so I didn’t make any in this batch. Additionally, anodizing has always been very prone to cosmetic rejects, so I’m always hesitant to run it again, especially since it’s so prevalent in other custom keyboards. I’ve been exploring some new options down here in SoCal for high-cosmetic anodizing, plating, and other coatings, but that process usually takes a while. (It’s hard to find shops here in the US that are willing to make things to the cosmetic standards of a high-end consumer product rather than for their usual medical and aerospace customers, where functionality is more important.)
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have you done a family photo? that sounds amazing
I haven’t but yes, I should! I think I’ll plan a series for instagram. A family photo week. Can do Norbauer, Noxary, TX, Rama, and Mekanisk. One each week day. Brilliant!
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Good thing for my wallet that retro fridge isn’t an option this go around.
Same here - that’s the one I’ve been lusting for. Hopefully the new US process lowers the bar for future re-issues.
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I’ve actually been doing powder coat in the US since the very beginning. (Figuring out how to get machining and other fabrications processes done took longer took me longer, around 2019 I think.) The high reject rate with Retro is just related to solid-color gloss powder coats themselves and not applicator skill or quality rigor. For most powder coat uses it’s fine, because most people aren’t as picky about small cosmetic aberrations on powder coated products as keyboard enthusiasts. But at the standard I want to keep, the reject rate on Retro Refrigerator is so high (>50% in some instances) that I would have to add like $200-300 to the price of each one just to account for the throw-aways. The pink Sunset Blvd finish on the Heavy Grail is similar; I have to charge slightly more for it because of it’s observed higher reject rate even though the application process is identical. While powder coat application is relatively straightforward and not too terribly expensive when done in large batches, non-destructively stripping and refinishing a part due to a cosmetic defect in the coat is relatively very expensive. But if one wants to hold really high cosmetic standards, refinishing is an inevitable part of the process. My failure to account for that and price it into the product is why I’ve mostly lost money on these projects in the past. I’m trying to get better about that. 
All of the above is why I think the only way I can make Retro come back is by trying to get someone to apply it as a urethane finish rather than a powder, which at least when done at its best allows for more uniform results on glossy solid colors. The color match shouldn’t be too hard, but finding a shop in the US that can do Class A spray finishes is a more daunting challenge for less than $500 a part (like an auto body shop might charge), but it’s one I’m working on. As a result, Norbaforce likely won’t see a return in Retro, but perhaps future projects currently in the works.
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Ryan, you are ever the gentleman. Thanks so much for your response. The allure of the fridge coating is much like drinking Mexican Cokes or the scene in Ratatouille with the eponymous dish - it’s an instant transport back to childhood. It’s a shame the ingredients are so fiddly, but I understand.
Your auto-shop idea sounds like it might have merit - perhaps a motorcycle shop that does custom work might be a good source for batch work?
I’m hoping the NorCal meetup will happen again this year - I briefly met you at the 2019 one and hope you can make it again.
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I’m very intrigued. I have a Heavy Grail on the way, but been looking for a TKL. On the Fujitsu website, I see that there are 3 different TKLs. I’ve never owned a Realforce, so is there a notable difference between the 45gs and 55gs? Currently using a HHKB Pro Classic 3, so I have a feel for the 45g. Also, I see that the RGB version of the Realforce is MX compatible. Are the black/ivory versions MX-compatible as well, or are they only Topre caps?
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