I haven’t announced any finishes.
3 Likes
I guessed that aerospace would have been like aero grade alu with minimum coatings sort of like your veracity steel option for the norbaforces?
I’m really liking the rounded edges and how elegantly the PCB will be incorporated into the design.
Love that this has the slope from the Heavy 6! Will it also have the Norbauer stamp on the back side?
I mean… this is absolutely phenomenal and can not wait to throw down money for it. However, will it run an aftermarket controller? In the OP, you mention that the only thing transferred are sliders and domes which makes me think yes to an a different controller? Will this run QMK for us plebs who love the flexibility of our HASU controllers?
Love my Norbaforce and touch, can’t wait for this. Thank you for everything you do for the community 
1 Like
Mind blowing. I guess I need to buy a HHKB now.
I’m focused on textured powder coats right now, but I may also offer a Veracity Steel version if enough people are interested.
I don’t plan on adding a logo badge on these. I’ve kind of come to regard that characteristic side profile geometry that I use often as a kind of subtle branding in itself.
Hasu seems to make controllers in such a way that they just have the same profile and mounting points as their original breakout boards, so I would expect it should be an easy swap with this just as on the HHKB itself, unless it relies on accessibility of the USB hub ports. I’m blocking those for acoustic and visual-aesthetic reasons on my housing.
My housing will still rely on the main PCB and breakout PCB of your HHKB. That was sort of implied, but apologies for not calling it out explicitly.
You have to drill the 2u and larger housings to use MX caps, right? I’ve never done it, but I think I remember that correctly. Any thought on leaving holes there for people who wish to us MX sliders? I really just want you to elaborate on the cool Topre caps you’re designing 
Hoping for a retro fridge in this one, but I bet you have something else cool in store as well.
1 Like
1 Like
Your badge is the classiest branding I’ve seen on a board though.
1 Like
I decided not to, though I did consider it. But you can always manually drill it like the HHKB itself if you want to go that route.
I recently joined a team of awesome guys who have been working on this project for a year or so. I’ve been working with them on refining the technical aspects of their molds, and I believe I’ll be designing one of the first two sets we’ll be releasing.
Still a decent number of logistical things to work out, but much progress has been made already. Some other amazing options are in the works, but I probably shouldn’t say too much since I haven’t asked the other guys what they’re comfortable with me sharing. I’m hoping we’ll have something to offer before the end of the year. If everything comes out like we’ve planned, I’m pretty sure we’re going to blow everyone’s mind–even now just thinking about the possibility of it potentially working has that effect on me. 
8 Likes
Interesting. I honestly hadn’t thought too much about it on this board. I’ll meditate on it. 
1 Like
I want to be inside that club so very very much.
1 Like
IC filled out. This was the excuse I was looking for to get a HHKB! Cheers 
1 Like
This looks amazing. I’m just really sad that given the current situation I’ll probably just be able to enter an eventual R2. Will be looking forward to that moment. Amazing Work!
I second that!
What’s the difference between the Pro 2 / Pro 3 versions?
2 Likes
At least as far as my housing is concerned: just the size and positioning of the USB port, along with the locations of standoffs for the breakout PCB in the rear cover plate.
If you’re talking about the HHKBs themselves, the Pro 2 is the one that everybody owns and the Pro 3 is the one that you can currently buy. 
2 Likes
I am assuming by the HHKB Pro 3 Classic, that is just the Professional Classic with USB-C?
Thanks. I asked because I have a Pro 2 that I probably won’t want to put in (Hasu BT controller) and I’m trying to figure out the consequences of getting a 2/3 housing. I assume the 2 housing won’t fit a USB-C port if I were to mod one onto a Pro 2 daughterboard?
1 Like