Interesting Finds & Heads-Ups

I was well aware that I would get less popular switches when I bought my mystery switches. However… I was not aware that I would get switches that NK never sold on their site, in non-branded bags from China. LOL

I guess I can’t complain. I never would have tried Tecsee Jadites and they are quite nice. Best Tecsee I’ve tried to date.

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Ha, same - I haven’t always gotten switches I’d have chosen, but I did always end up paying less for them than if I had. This meant I either got switches I wanted for cheap, or bits for budget builds at a nice discount.

Least interesting NK_ mystery switch for me so far was Kailh Reds with the flat-bottom stems, most interesing would be Blueberries long after they’d stopped being made. I also got both of the RandomFrankP collab switches, the 5-pin Midnight Jades and the Silk Emeralds (Silk Yellow recolor).

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Big batch of Kailh Black v2 switches I got also have ‘flat-bottom’ long pole stems. Others have praised the stem as cheap alternative to NK Cream stems for making BCPs. But I found them not hitting bottom squarely on many switches, most notably Cherry Blacks, resulting in awkward feel.

My current hypothesis is that the stem tip’s cylindrical edges are hitting the slightly curved sides at the bottom. When bowl-shaped grinder Dremel bits I ordered arrives, I’ll be able to make flat-bottom stem more pointy to see if my theory is on point (sorry).

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It’s just for fun. They’re $15. I’d take some TTC switches!

Also, new keycaps on CannonKeys include this lovely design.

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NK Cream+ inserts are back in stock (yes, even the copper ones)

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Question for anyone who has used NK Cream+ for a while now:

Has anyone else had inserts stuck to the inside of the housing instead of in the stem? I’ve purchased several cream+, but I’ve only ever fully fitted 60 of them with the titanium inserts. I had a few that sounded different. I opened them up to inspect, and I thought that I had forgotten to put the insert in b/c the stem hole was empty. However, I realized what had actually happened was the titanium insert had fallen out and of the stem and was in the bottom of the switch. I used different inserts on those, and the problem seems fixed. But I’m not sure how that would go down in a soldered board. Also, this is without any lubrication at all. I would bet that adding any lubrication to that area would exacerbate the problem since most lubricants can be slightly sticky.

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If anyone else shares the weird feeling that for some reason the A seems smaller than the rest of the letters, upon checking it’s quite accurate in terms of size, maybe the A should be a bit thicker but they’re almost the same length and width.

Fairly close, from what I can tell. I imagine most of the things that look off are because of stem rotation and lens distortion. That F does seem a bit sus though… Maybe something to do with being a Homing key? I think the J also appears off.

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This might actually be a pretty good use case for a dry lube like RO-59. :thinking:

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Yah, the “F” looks off there. Good photo. I think it’s within quality standards, but I haven’t noticed anything like that on my sets from them. I’ll be surprised if it ends up being too much of an issue.

I also can’t spend the money right now anyway :laughing: It’s on my list, though!

Yes.

I actually noticed it when I was experimenting with C+ stems in other housings - I could see the occasional insert resting on the tube floor as the stem moved without it. With the small group of samples I was testing, I only saw this on a couple silicone ones - but it also seems like the difference in tolerance between that happening and not is quite tiny.

Something I think would work to be sure and avoid this, at least with the metal inserts; good ol’ PTFE tape. Just a little bit of that soft, non-adhesive Teflon strip on the end of the insert should hold it in-place. I haven’t tested it in this exact application, but it does wonders for loose keycaps.

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These look like a nice combo: full travel, 57g bottom out, ink bottom, nylon top, UHMWPE stem supposedly redesigned for this in particular.

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After reading their blurb, I’m tempted to be an early adopter on these. Though I am a little hesitant because I’ve never had a UHMWPE stem crucifix that wasn’t undersize. I realize that was something Gat said that were addressing in particular, but it’s also something every manu with a similar switch prior to this has said as well.

I was just about to post the same. Looks interesting. Divinikey wrote a bit more about the process and listed a few other videos in their Discord announcement.

Sound test, for those looking for one…

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I’m tapped out at the moment but may pick some up later this year. So I’ll welcome any Guinea pigs :yum:

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Why do I feel like ya’ll are looking at me?

My Keyboard Sponsor has told that I have to pump the brakes on buying any more switches…

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They are out of stock anyway. Will get them later if they restock…

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This looks like a visually intriguing keyboard - one that’s all fun at the front and top!

The G-Square Vintage 60s

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Sadly from the side it just llooks like a variation of the Cybernoard.