I put MX Brown stems in YOK Panda housings [trash panda] using the stock spring [62 G?].
They were incredibly bouncy, and more tactile than regular MX Browns. Very fun, but the noise needed controlling.
I agree that the OUTEMU Sky 2.2 don’t make such a great sound in the Ergo-Clear-like setups, and I have tested them.
Currently, the parts I have most use for in the Skies are the Silent Sky stems. I have been extensively testing them in OUTEMU, MX Clear, and Boba housings.
They seem to have the best balance of smoothness and sound in the Cherry MX Clear housings. OUTEMU is scratchy unless you lube the leaf somehow. Boba is the most stable and good-sounding, but it is very tactile so you need a powerful spring for the Silent Sky stems to function optimally, something like 65 or 68 [manufacturer says 68 G.]
Just finished lubing and filming my set of t1 switches. I got most of the way through lubing and assembling the t1s before I noticed how much they needed films. loooots of housing wobble. so I had to open the 40 or so switches I had already lubed and film them and reclose them! frustrating. But now that they are all done they feel pretty decent but noticeably less poppy in tactility than the zealios v2 which is to be expected I guess. Both my zealios and t1 are in 67g weighting but the t1 feels lighter for some reason. Anyone got a possible reason for that? is it the less tactility? Anyways I like the sound of these switches quite a lot after filming and lubing but I might end up spring swapping these to be slightly heavier.
Fiddling with QMK to make a hybrid-layout for my new kbd67-build.
No pictures though… Could post a screenshot of the editor, but that’s just boring to look at
Just changed mounting style (gummyworm->burger) and sound dampening (thick KBDFans case form-> thin EVA foam) on my KBD 8x MKII (alpacas on full PC plate).
Not sure there’s much typing feel difference really, but I think the sound is somewhat worse (comparatively speaking, a minor but noticeable difference).
Will give it a few days, then possibly revert back as I think I actually preferred the previous sound a bit more (case being completely filled with thick foam to the point of compression).
Still waiting on doing that custom 60% ALPS build I’ve been talking about. I got everything together right now, but ended up grabbing one of Keebmeup’s Plain60 ALPS edition PCBs & want to build it with that over the XD ver.3 I have. Although the main keyboard chore I need to do is a deep clean & reorganization of my storage areas.
Got way too many boards wrapped in bubble wrap & boxed up right now. Planning on devoting another shelf on my bookcase to keeb display & putting up at least 2 - ‘3 to 4’ long shelves. One for storage the other for more keeb display real estate. Got all my tools out right now since I’m in the middle of replacing my kitchen floor. So I might as well get the shelving built before I put them all back away. If I’m feeling frisky I may even take a whack at building a stand for keeb storage/display!
Yeah I found that out the hard way myself LOL! It is an odd decision too, I guess they did it to accommodate for all the split spacebar configs it allows? Speaking of, that is one of the biggest reasons I opted against using it. The bottom rows are such a mess with all the possible switch placements!
So only tangentially related to keebs; my Ducky Secret M mouse had developed a squeaky wheel - a little bit of Krytox 106 in the right places and it’s whisper-quiet again.
Iron180 PC proto, could not get this to go into boot mode for flashing. Top reset switch was inaccessible on the proto plate (no cutout) so had to desolder the whole board to get it working. Also decided to switch out the brass plate with the CF one.
Swapped the Sakurios on the KFE CE with tealios from my hotswap Mode Eighty.
Soldered together this minivan today to discover the top mount RGB lights on the Ketch PCB are turned on by default? a surprise to be sure, but an unwelcome one
Finally got my modern layout ALPS build done! Pretty happy with it, but had a few issues lining up the bottom row. Even though the 1UP CF plate I used is ALPS compatible, the bottom row is cut for universal layouts & did not allow ALPS switches to latch in. Then the L win key footprint on the PCB is ever so slightly pushed to far to the right. The caps don’t interfere with each other I left it be at this.
The biggest disappointment with this build is the caps though. I was so happy to get a set of DCS ALPS Yuri, but after getting them on a board I’ve come to realize SP just shat this set out with pretty low QC. The stems are glued or melted on to the caps, definitely not shot with the cap. I had the stem rip right off one of my 1.5u ALT keys & it came off perfectly since it was only connected at two small points. Thankfully I was able to glue it back in & have it useable again, but that doesn’t give me hope this set will hold up to repeated changes. Then to top that off my S key actually has the wrong stem on it! It has a fricking R2 stem on it making it sit at a different angle then the rest of R3… Again I was able to mostly compensate for that by shaving down the support bars for the stem, but FFS SP!
I learned the hard way with SP DCS caps as well (MX caps to boot). Not only are all the notches very visible from the injection molding, but stems break incredibly easily compared to Cherry caps.
I developed a new technique when using DCS caps - lube them. They should still be tight enough to stay on, but it greatly enhances your chances of getting them off if you need to!
The build looks great. My Alps build is in limbo. I was going to have a custom plate cut for my QXP, but I just don’t have the time right now. I am focusing on easy, 40% builds until I have time for a serious one.
Again I was able to mostly compensate for that by shaving down the support bars for the stem, but FFS SP!