It is complicated. Originally, I wanted to add the toggle just for the lolz, and also because I have a fetish for electronics that have this main power switch (mainly, because a lot of things nowadays do not have a simple way to turn the off without unplugging them from a power source).
Surprisingly, this toggle has been useful for me, since I could tinker with the keycaps without unplugging the keyboard (remember this is leopold and unplugging it from the keyboard side is not very convenient).
Household with cats, small children, clumsy owner who spills drink every week over the keyboard…
Yup, this is big brain ingenuity then. Very cool.
That’s a really good idea when you can’t just unplug the keyboard easily. I ususally end up opening switchhitter or via when I wanna swap caps and switches to avoid keypress. But I’m liking this toggle. Cool
My keyboard chores took a good shot in the arm today! Got my KBD8X MkII in today, so I’ll probably be building that tomorrow. Then I stumbled across an amazing deal on r/mm of all places!? I was able to the grab the Yuri DCS ALPS set for $110! I’ve been saving a XD60 ver. 3.0 PCB, a universal 60% CF plate, a universal 60% brass plate for their ALPS compatibility, & a bunch of SKCM/L ALPS switches for a modern layout 60% ALPS build. Now I’ll finally be able to do it! Super pumped about both of these as they’re builds I’ve wanted to do for a long time now!
Today, revitalizing the stabs on this KBParadise V80 that I’ve been modding for my sister’s husband.
The board originally had MX Silent Blacks and pretty darn bad stabs. I removed those switches quickly and easily with the FR-301, and replaced them with a mixture of those and Halo housings with leftover YOK Panda stems. 205g0 made them pretty decent, and the thin caps I’m using with them sound nice.
The ESC and ScrLk keys get BOX whites, the Spacebar gets a Silent BOX Brown (partially for its dampening, partially for its tapered housing), and Caps Lock gets a BOX Navy.
After I snug-up the stabs with cloth tape and lube them with some more 205g0 and with a little modding, I’ll be installing this into a Filco Camo case.
No - bad KBParadise:
Ah, much better:
Edit:
Had to do a little modding -
Remove a post here:
Shorten one here:
Drill a hole in the PCB here:
And bam! The Filco case fits perfectly thanks to using a similar template.
I’ve been working on this one a little here and there when I had time over the past couple weeks - feels good to have it done.
the beige/grayscale surprisingly works out with the camo case! i hope the recipient gives you feedback on how the mod experience is.
Well you win some & lose some I guess. Got around to cleaning up the batch of SKCL greens I scored a few months ago & I came to find out I got my head beat in on that transaction. The switches looked a little dirty from the outside, but nothing I haven’t seen with SKCM/L ALPS that I have successfully restored before. When I got inside them though the story changed very quickly, they had must’ve had water get in them & were never cleaned out. A good 30 to 40 of them had switchplates that were completely smoked with corrosion. Basically overpaid for spare SKCL green parts there… 
Thankfully I coaxed myself to check over the classifieds in the community tonight & ended up getting a 2nd decent deal on r/mm in less than a week (maybe there is some hope for that platform?)! Ended up finding someone selling the guts of an old Zenith with what looks to be pretty clean SKCL greens on it for $100 shipped! Admittedly a little pricey for 84 SKCL greens & I gotta desolder them, but if they are as clean as I think they are finding that on super short notice will make it more than worth it to me. Fingers crossed this doesn’t jinx me, but this 60% ALPS Yuri build I’m chasing here seems to be falling into place just right!
Just finished making holy (and poli 
) bobas for my “try to make a Drop SHIFT sound good” project and met my old nemesis
Ah, frick, right, Drop loves those PCBs without leg holes. Time to break out the flush cutters again 
Bring out the drill instead 
Nice, I have been thoroughly enjoying my 8X MkII. Hope you feel the same about yours & can’t wait to see the finished product!
Trying my hand at making plate foam for my drop alt while I wait for my module foam to show up from kbdfans. My expectations from this are low but I’ll be pleasantly surprised if it works recently. (Or if it’ll even all close back together at the end)
Unfortunately on further inspection and trying to reassemble the case, this foam is too thick and I will have to wait.
I spent some time making some Sky Pandas the other day. Outemu V2.2 stem in a Panda housing of your choosing. I chose to go with a 68g Sprit spring.
I am really liking the tactile bump. However I am a little disappointed with the other aspects of the switch. Sound is just ok, there is some stem wobble. I don’t have any Cherry Clears to try, but I think either Outemu stems are kind of crap or the nature of the bump kind of leads these switches to sounding scratchy no matter what. I wish I had some 3203, I would have tossed some on the legs when I had them open.
I think I made slightly modified ergo clears, and these days there are a lot of new switches coming out that are in that space already. The nice thing is that with these housings, I can always turn around and make HPs. I don’t think I am going to be doing that for a while though, I am a little burnt out on cracking switches open now.
Cheers!
Thanks for showing it with Chalk. I’ve wavered back and forth on getting that set, but it does look good on the KDB8X.
I’ve had those new domes and my novatouch sitting on the table for quite a while, one of these days I gotta actually do the swap
