NCR 80 plastic kit

Looks like the in stock ones sold out quickly, but you can pre-order for the next batch. Good price on a classic look.

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It’s like a TKL TKC1800 but hotswap.

This tempted me last night since I missed out on the JER-80 raffle last year.

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I kind of dig it. It seems pretty limited to beige sets though. That green is kind of a hard one to match.

Interesting that it is WKL, but forces stepped CAPS. Most people would put CTRL here…
Also strange that you either have to go plateless or hot swap with carbon fiber plate. Or can you get the soldered PCB and an extra CF plate and be ok?

Also that is a big forehead… almost a five head.

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I’ve got a few stepped Control keycaps in my collection, so it’s not unheard of. As far as plate goes, I think this originated as a plateless solder kit, but some people asked for Hotswap. If you go hotswap, you obviously need a plate. I don’t see why you couldn’t add a plate to the solder kit, but it’s not going to add a lot. I think the top is meant to be “industrial gray.” So anything neutral should go. I’d be interested to see what keycaps might look good on it.

I was bored and playing around.

I think anything beige CRP would be good. Good thing I have tulip and arabic coming.

I was also contemplating epbt 9009 or maybe EPBT x Donutcat Royal Alpha Keycaps set – KBDfans® Mechanical Keyboards Store

Possibly ENJOYPBT Purple Korean KEYCAPS SET – KBDfans® Mechanical Keyboards Store but I would have to wait for them to come back in stock… if they ever do.

This is really tempting… but as an Apple user, I rely on having an option key

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Agreed. Winkey version would make this an easy buy.

put option or windows on the right alt. That’s what I do. It’s VIA so easy to program

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wow thanks for this! I like this classic retro look! Gonna check it out! :smiley:

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Extracted the PCB from BlackSimon’s stream (Thanks @fatalruin & @Rico).

The product page doesn’t mention what the compatibility of the solder PCB is. It appears to have split back space, ISO & Split Right shift. Not sure going on with the bottom row. There are many different locations on the PCB but the case looks like it would only support a single layer.
I understand they likely reused the PCB design, which is understandable given the price point.

For the hotswap version, I have seen photos with regular caps lock but the product site shows stepped caps lock support. I have not been able to find a photo of that PCB yet.

I still think this fills a niche for good board with that old school look. With a few mods I think it could sound great.

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Pity that the solder PCB does not have Alps support. Alps sound pretty great in a hollow case.

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I got one recently and I’m definitely excited to build mine up. Unfortunately there isn’t alps support, but I’ll live.

I’m thinking maybe Gat Ink Blacks or Reds :thinking:
TBD; I still have some POM Holy Pandas too

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I was pretty interested in this board as well. I know the green is the original look, but I would love beige or slate grey. Pretty fun looking build for the price!

At least you don’t have to feel too bad about attempting a paint job, lol.

That is a good point! I didn’t really think of that. Hmm that might be another fun project…

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Anyone know how the light button shield on the top is constructed? Is it clear plastic with like green paper behind it? Or is it all one unit?

Just curious if you we to paint the top case, could you adapt the numlock display to match?

How did I miss this? It’s like a budget JER-A06!

I am very curious about details. How is the typing experience, and how does it compare to the old Cherry keyboards?

Aside from better build quality, how is the JER custom better than this? How does the typing experience and sound compare?

Videos of this thing are popping up all over Youtube, and I am consumed with curiosity. Is it better to go with PCB-mount or the CF plate? Are both hotswap? Wow! Share your experiences!

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So no experience with this kit, but I do have some experience with OG Cherry boards. IMO the fact they are plateless & in just a plastic case is kinda what makes them special. The plateless factor makes for a nice soft typing feel, think some give but not really flex. Then the cases make for pretty decent acoustics depending on your tastes. The best setup I have found with OG cherry boards is to use a piece of shelf liner behind the PCB to wedge it a little tighter in the case than it’s fit stock. Not only does this make the board feel tighter & sturdier, it also gives a little more to the soft cushiony feel. It also improves the acoustics of the cases by taking a bite out of the higher frequencies. I can’t 100% confirm, but also can’t see any reason this case would be any different than the OG Cherry ones.

BTW, I’m feeling the same way about this board LOL!

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I’m working on a video, trying to have it out before the end of the month, but my life is a void where time gets absorbed. Kinda like a black hole. So :crossed_fingers: all my ducks are in a row

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Thanks, guys.

When reading up on MX Browns, I saw suggestions that MX Browns were meant to be used plateless/PCB Mount originally. That may have been the case for a number of early Cherry MX tactile boards.

I’m getting the sense that the NCR80 and boards like it would be ideal mounts for Vintage Browns, which may exist in modern guise in something like the Durock Light Tactile.

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