Yes, I knew it! There are built structures on the Moon 
HHKB Professional 1 from 2003. This board has a nice yellowing to it, and feels great. I’ve lubed the stabs, and silenced it with #7 rings on mods, and #5 for alphas. It has a gold URSA artisan from my good friend Andreas, and beige Hangul caps from an 86u. I’ve had a few Pro 1s but none of them have felt nearly as good as this one.
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GEON W1-AT with GMK Nuclear Data R2, lubed, filmed and spring swapped Cherry MX2A Browns and a 1.2mm PCB.
IMO one of the best layouts out in the wild.
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Little bit to add since yesterday: switched the brown stems with Geon Lavender Tactile sliders. The sliders make up for a really good push feel.
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Finally built my Mode Eighty (2022) with HMX Purple Dawn’s topped with HSA Blush. The case is a darker shade of navy IRL.
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Saw some HSA in person in Tokyo. The shine is real. So glossy and eye-catching.
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I really love the Model M. I enjoy my 1994 Model M when I am home alone 
Some time ago I built something that comes close in loudness: a custom version of the Bolt by LAZYDESIGNERS. Got the plates custom cut in stainless steel instead of acrylic for my spare PCB. A layered steel case, alu plate and Kailh Box Navies with MT3 keycaps. It feels like a little typewriter!
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Box navies on a dense little board are a ton of fun. I also want to know more about your (custom?) trackball there.
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That is the ball:
The case is the plate case with laser cut stainless steel plates. It is a really nice trackball, especially since I got high quality bearings. Only downside is, that the sensor is not sold anymore. With drag scroll is support in QMK, It is my dedicated scrolling device now.
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Another long awaited keeb that I was able to build after hoarding parts for over a year:
Smith + Rune PC Iron165 R2
I had a Midnight Teal Limited Edition PCB from them that was originally going to go into my R1 Iron165, but didn’t have the right plate for it. Then, they announced the R2 PC versions dropping. R2 fixed just about every issue I had with the R1 (except for the unbelievably dense foam gaskets…) and I do love me some PC keebs 
I went with a matching PC half-plate, even though the PCB is hotswap, because the switches fit quite snug, and the Kailh hotswap sockets seem to hold the Plum Gazzew U4Tx switches in quite nicely.
Since the Iron165 is a bit of a classic design updated to try to keep up with modern keebs, I went with a modern take on classic stabs and used Durock V3’s lubed with Carbon GS3.
Topped it all off with GMK Bordeaux and was even able to source the matching artisan from the now defunct THOK (while they may still have a site, do NOT order from them as you likely will never receive anything…)
All in all, a really nice build. If you don’t mind the wait time, and can justify the cost, the PC Iron165 R2 is a great keeb where the devil is in the details.
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why are the keys SO GLOSSY
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Because glossy finished ABS is amazing, the set is JTK HSA Rouge not Blush actually. Although part of the inspiration is makeup/blush.
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Ha, yup Rouge. I recently saw when the PbtFans Blush set was announced and it must have stuck in my brain.
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Got Skidata Neo on a black case. I think the HMKB industrial aesthetic works well with these caps.
This HIBI artisan might be my favorite to date. I really wish I could figure out how to take better photos. I probably can’t do much more with an iPhone. It’s frustrating to try and get keyboard photos with my phone because the colors are always so inaccurate. I spent at least 30 minutes and this is the only photo I got that I like. Grrr
Instagram post Here
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Yushakobo Primer79 is done, more or less. I went HAM with the dremel on the inside of the 3D printed shroud-spacers, and I cut a new blocker-plate. As mentioned elsewhere, I kept to the original design and soldered the switches PCB-mount. All clearance issues are now resolved, perhaps with a bit of overkill, and the spacebar now sounds more garden-variety hollow. Something about the original assembly made it extra awful. I’ll still add some foam, but I’m less concerned than I was. I also managed to get the MCU cover mounted just a bit lower, which helps with accessibility to the F12 encoder. At last, a board with linears added to my collection of almost-but-not-quite-TKLs.
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Finally finished my green Argyle.
This one is built with a green prototype PCB, polycarbonate plate, and gateron beer tactiles.
Lots more pics on Instagram
https://www.instagram.com/p/DFI6H1fP4Dm/?igsh=MXAwbXdwanU3ZXhubQ==
This one took a while. Had to wait on some replacement RGB LEDs and a chip. Annoyingly, the microchip that Microchip sent me was the wrong one. That took me a bit to figure out. But I have spare parts from the original build, so donor chip it is!
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I’ve actually been sitting on this one for a bit as I was trying out a few boards that all came in within days of each other. Also, I as well as for waiting for keycaps and/or artisans to complete the build theme.
I think it turned out pretty nice!
Specs:
- Anodized Black Top Case
- Copper Bottom
- Solder PCB
- CF PCB
- Copper Badge
- “Golden Orbit” Rear Badge
- KBDFans Roller Switches
- Key Kobo Skidata Neo Keycaps (Base + Alert Kit)
- HIBI Skidata Neo Artisan
- SLUDGEKIDD “Dead Fuse” Fughoul Artisan
- Copper Cable w/Copper Anodized LEMO connector from Dispatch Cables
- KrakenKap “Trio” in Neon Deskmat
Chonk
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Very nice, Skidata Neo looks great on it! Also love the Fughoul, it’s a great match to caps! Surprised DCX is that different from it too. While KKB don’t match GMK’s N9 either, it is a lot closer than DCX for sure. It was hard to capture the difference in a photo, while in your comparison pic I can clearly see DCX is much darker.
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The Fughoul was a complete surprise on the color match!
The DCX keycaps were definitely darker by a few shades, but I like the feel and the sound of the KKB keycaps so much more.
The Alert Kit is what absolutely makes it for me. 
Definitely a great board for the price, and the build was ridiculously simple as well. Neo/QK just keeps moving the bar up for astounding boards at “entry level” pricing!
3 Likes