Damn, it seems very hard top find a good manu.
The manu I used did a great job for the CNC but their anodisation was terrible.
I hoe you will have better luck for your next case.
Wow that honestly looks great! I hope you find a better manufacturer to meet your standards
Leopold FC660C Low Noise in a @norbauer Heavy-6 case with Hasu controller.
I don’t intend to keep these caps like they are, just wanted to use all the sets I had to see what I could come up with. I was lucky enough to find full sets of the all grey and the rarer WoB (or more like a slight gold on black) set. I find this much easier to type on than the basically blanks that the FC660C low noise comes with. I will probably go all WoB or just change out the reds to the greys.
Between when I ordered this thing and when I got it I thought I decided I didn’t want another 75% board, but the longer I kept meaning to sell it the longer the box kept looking back at me from the shelf and yesterday I finally broke down and lubed up some tangerine switches (the old milky tops, not the new ones everyone’s got now) and put it together tonight. I wasn’t going to do a build log but I ran into some interesting stuff along the way and I took some pics so I’ll probably put up a build log with some thoughts later in the week. This is a rad board!
Beautiful flipped spacebar. I find the placement of the fn key weird on that board, though– it’s the 1u by rshift, correct? Seems like you’d have to do some finger gymnastics to access layers.
Yeah, the 1u on the right of R_shift is the fn key. I’m pretty used to it in that position since that is the common location on the HHKB and other similar boards.
I don’t have large hands, but one handed, I can work the fn key pretty well.
My fn layer usually mirrors the HHKB’s fn layer which you can see here:
It’s one of those things where once I got used to it, I absolutely fell in love with it. For me the arrow placement and the nav keys placement is what I ALWAYS go with anytime I have an chilling over by that R_shift. One handed operation for arrows, page up page down, home and end. Ez Pz lemon squeezy!
I’m not crazy then! I never used a HHKB, but I use the same arrow pattern on all my 60%s LOL. Even when the Fn key is on the bottom row, granted the split R Shift is the perfect placement for Fn. I got used to that arrow placement from Hasu’s ALPS64 PCB & just kept using it since then.
Edit: Beautiful build BTW
What are the switches you’re using in this build? I do not recognize them!
This is really cool! Love the layout and form of the case.
I think I’ve finally got the 3D printer dialed in.
(This ivory PLA was difficult to keep on the bed for some reason. It kept warping. Glue stick to the rescue.)
Now that we can print 'em. I am invincible!
That ivory print looks amazing! Great job and great looking board!
DZ60 with ISO Canvas and inverted “less than”-keycap and stealios switches. The case is in walnut and made by Createboard.
TX60 cerakoted (tungsten)
Brass Plate
Zeal 60
Retooled MX Blacks with TX Films and 3204
Originative GMK BoW and Candykeys GMK BoW
Do you have other tray mount metal cases? If so, how would you compare the sound of the Raven case to them? I’ve always wanted to get one b/c I love the thick edges but I have way too many tray mount cases to justify it
I got the Raven and the Fjell. They are soundwise really hard to compare: Brass Plate & Holy Pandas vs Plateless & Zilents. In a direct comparison the Fjell sounds by far deeper, fuller, better. However, this is probably more of a comparison between Pandas and Zilents.
The Raven ist a great case. Many 60% cases look awfully similar, the raven does not without being too crazy. The only reason I want to sell it is that the pcb is proprietary and does not support ISO.
How is the quality on the TX? I just ordered a TX-66 and hoping it’s worth the coin!
I own 4 TX boards, and in addition, I just joined the group buy for a TX-66 and TX-66c. I’m in love with the quality of Kin’s products. Top notch finishes, thick and heavy cases. I’ve never had even a scratch on my boards.