amano spotted!!! @Kiko
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thx for pairing this so i dont have to lmaoooo. wasabi x anni green lookin delicious ngl
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The Dymo label is a fantastic touch. 
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Wowie that is a SPICY inside shot. The Cipulot DB with the (im assuming) copper plate and it’s roughed up.
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Haha thank you, its a sho copper plate with a TON of old fingerprints, its aged quite nicely : )
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Finished this modification the other day, loving the new color and have very very exciting things to come for this board in the future! 
Build:
Realforce RC1
Copper case (paint)
Blue RC1 Mods/R2 Beige Alphas
Resin Party Birdman Artisan
MetaKeebs 45g Domes
MetaKeebs 55g Domes (mods)
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Resin Party caps so fire! Also how you liking the RC1? I’ve been wanting to get back into Topre, but I am having a hard time deciding what form factor I want to go with. The 980C would be ideal, but we all know how hard those & 660Cs are to find at a decent price anymore. As it stands I’m leaning heavily towards a new R3S or RF R2 TKL (the R3S is cheaper, but I’ve always really liked the R2’s styling). Although the more I look at the RC1 the more I am warming up to the udeal of giving one a shot.
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I love the RC1. BUT, my big warning to those interested is: If you are a Right Shift user, this board will suck for you. If you use Left Shift, you’re golden.
The 1u right shift is criminal for those that use right shift mainly, but I luckily am not one of those people. It’s like a big HHKB in a good way.
R3S is also a great option which is basically a R2 with new PCB, they are almost identical in case design/internals. I’d keep an eye out on MechMarket or Conical Discord for sales on a 980, some are decently priced still!
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just gotta camp for the leopolds on aftermarket, they come thru here and there, and generally still hold their value.
R3 and R3S (the rebooted R2) are pretty decent out of the box. @techbeezin ‘s owned both models; i have an R3. i also got a chance to try the white RC1 courtesy of @Jucko, and the layout is surprisingly usable. i just would prefer if it was offered in unsilenced/rather, i like the black sliders’ shorter travel better. idk if arrows matter to you. on the RC1 they’re still pretty easy to “find” with just muscle memory.
however i’ll have to hand it to R2 for having dyesub keycaps as opposed to R3S which has laser printed. just something to keep in mind
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Hey @techbeezin , do you have a post or write-up of your process for painting your RFs? I have an HHKB I was thinking of trying it out on but I’m generally pretty awful at painting so I want to see what your process is for making this RF and other boards look so good.
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Why thank you for the compliment. All I typically do is prime the housings with some standard plastic primer and then paint with the color of choice and add a clear coat if needed/wanted. Honestly biggest advice is light coats and take your time. I’m impatient so I know this is a tough part when you’re excited to build it back up lol.
Here’s a recent board I’ve painted using the above methods.
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Thanks!
I’m not sure if I knew such thing as plastic primer existed but I see a few listings on Amazon, etc. Do you typically prepare the surface of the chassis with sanding or anything like that?
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Usually I don’t need to sand the housing. If it’s previously painted absolutely. But all I typically do is make sure to wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol and ensure the sliders (if hhkb) are taped up. Then I use gloves to make sure my oils don’t get on the case. The primer really does the heavy lifting of prepping the surface for the actual paint.
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