SP Star Meteor Orange

[M0narch]

Hi there! I’m a relatively newcomer to this whole custom keyboard community. A little background of me is I have been gaming with mechanical keyboards for years now but I only bought prebuilt ones mostly with linear switches; Tecware Phantom TKL( Outemu Reds), Ajazz k620t (Ajazz Pink switch), GK61 (Gateron Reds). This year I started to go with a custom keyboard. I bought a Pulsar PCMK TKL and decided to order some SP Star Meteor Orange switches coz of how stunning they looked haha.

So my questions are:

1. Is it good out of the box?
2. Should I lube it? or re-apply lube on it?
3. Are films necessary?
4. Would it have interference with my PCMK TKL considering it’s north facing? I’m thinking of getting some Akko Keycap Sets or Yongqiu ones.

I also order some JWK Lagoons and Huano Holytoms for comparison. I would really appreciate any help or insight, thank you!

[HungerMechanic]

Hi,

Welcome to the board! I’m glad you posted about this.

I think people are sleeping on the Meteor Orange, which are a great light tactile. They are a legitimate alternative to MX Brown.

Basically, they have a stem shape similar to MX Brown or Gateron Brown [probably Gateron Brown, I think it actuates around the same place], but the stem and housings are obviously fresher than Cherry. So it’s a smoother, less-scratchy Brown.

Tactility-wise, it may be on the low-end of light-tactile. It’s almost linear. But there’s just enough of a bump to tell your subconscious mind that you actuated the key, and the bump is less nebulous than Cherry’s.

Anyway, to answer your questions:

1. The Meteor Orange is perfectly usable out-of-the-box, but I find it improves dramatically with lubing and filming. Out-of-the-box it has some annoyances, namely a pretty loud slapping sound when you bottom-out, and it’s pretty plasticy-sounding. The factory lube is watery and kind of gives you a slippery experience.

2. I am going to answer 2 and 3 together. Yes, films are necessary for the optimum experience. These switches are so important to me that I sent some to a professional builder to test four different concepts for building Meteor Orange.

Here is what I proposed, and the builders’ response:

1. Film the stock switch and lube only the area surrounding the leaf, probably with 3203. The factory lube on the stem is already sufficient. Create 2x of these. Lube stock spring.

Filmed with TX 0.15mm films. Stem lubed with 3204 (top of switch (L/R rails) and bottom of L/R rails and bottom of pole. Very minimal points lubed. Stock spring lubed with GPL 106.

2. Film the stock switch and replace the top housing with a Cherry housing, lube the area surrounding the leaf with 3203. And maybe lightly-lube parts of the top-housing. Create 2x of these. Lube stock spring.

Filmed with TX 0.15mm films. Stem lubed with 3204 (top of switch (L/R rails) and bottom of L/R rails and bottom of pole + front of switch (area above the legs). Stock spring lubed with GPL 106.

3. Film the stock switch and replace the top housing with a Cherry housing, lube the area surrounding the leaf with 3203. And maybe lightly-lube parts of the top-housing. Create 2x of these. Replace spring with lubed 55 G 14mm TX spring.

Filmed with TX 0.15mm films. Stem lubed with 3204 (top of switch (L/R rails) and bottom of L/R rails and bottom of pole + front of switch (area above the legs). TX 55G spring lubed with GPL 106.

4. I am going to leave the remaining 2 switches at your discretion.

Filmed with TX 0.15mm films. Area surrounding the leaf lubed with 3204 (sides, pole, top and bottom) and lube cleaned off the front legs. 60G TX long spring lubed with GPL 106. One switch has a Cherry top

Essentially, I thought that the second build concept worked best for me. This was basically:

Don’t do the bare, most-minimal possible lubing, but also don’t be generous. Lube where you think there are shortcomings in the factory lube, while otherwise preserving it. A careful use of 3204.
You can see from the second build concept where those areas are.

The Cherry top-housing was important to the sound and feel of this build. I think the Cherry top was taken from an MX Brown, but I don’t think that matters. I’m using MX Silent Red for the build.

The stock spring feels fine to me, weight-wise. Sure, it needs to be lubed and all, but I like the weight.

You’ll noticed I tried 55 G 14mm TX springs in some others. They work fine but they feel a bit more ‘harsh’ somehow. Stiffer. I don’t know. They may indeed be more rounded, but the stock Meteor springs just felt more relaxed. This is a very mellow tactile.

The films improve the switch, because I feel that the housings are not as tight as they could be. And because I want to use Cherry tops, films could be an important asset here. They do seem to improve the sound somewhat, which is very much-needed.

Using TX 0.15mm films for the testing, but Deskey films are going to be tried soon.

So yes, lube it, film it, and maybe use Cherry tops if you can.

4. It’s shaped like a regular Cherry switch, so there could be interference with Cherry-profile keycaps with north-facing LEDs. If you’re buying an Akko profile like ASA, it should be no problem, but if you’re using their Cherry clones, then yes, that could be a problem.

It’s worth getting a correct-facing TKL like even a MK870 so you don’t have to deal with this issue. My Meteor Orange are set to be mounted on an HMKB TKL.

[M0narch]

Wow man this was very extensive and helpful! I really appreciate it. But me being a newbie, I only got my hands on some Krytox 205g0 and Krytox GPL 105, I did nail the 0.15mm TX Films. I think the most I could replicate with the stuff was the first one.

So basically I need to lube the springs with the GPL 105 and use the 205g0 for the bottom housing and apply the film afterwards right?

The thing that really gravitated me towards the Meteor Orange is exactly because it is slept on. It’s my first blind buy for a switch haha.

As for the north facing matter, I think it’s not gonna be a problem for the PCMK since the LEDs are under the switch and not at the same plane with it?

Photo not mine and grabbed it from reddit, CTTO

[HungerMechanic]

The TX films are a big part of it, so you’re already half-way there.

GPL 105 should be fine for the springs. However, I think that 205g0 may be overkill for the switch. Keep in mind that it is very easy to accidentally turn a Brown into a linear. 205g0 is a relatively thick lube that will kill tactility if it gets on the legs.

So if you are going to use 205g0, I advise being very strict with it, and only lubing certain parts (deffo not the legs).

I am not aware of the finer points of how switch orientation works, but the housing is an issue, not just the LED placement. So a backwards housing could still interfere with Cherry profile. But it’s best to ask elsewhere, on another thread, as there are people here who know lots more about that.

I think for your switches, you should start by lubing the springs, since that always helps. If you are brush-lubing them, just take a tiny amount [after wiping off the excess lube] and start by focusing on the base of the spring, get that lubed. But not so much that you can see the lube. And brush the lube into the rest of the spring, focusing on the ends.

You can see how much, if any, difference lubing the spring makes. You could start with just that mod. Then, you could gradually up the lubing, maybe starting with just the rails on the stem with 205g0. Just a super-thin, almost invisible coating there [and not near legs]. If that isn’t too much lube, you could go for the other parts of the stem/switch mentioned in build #2.

That way, you can work your way up, and see the changes for your self. Not getting in too far too deep at first. Start using the films when you are comfortable with it. I think they make a difference.

If you ever get ahold of any Cherry housings [MX Clear, MX Red, MX Brown, etc…, especially pre-Hyperglide], the top-housings will be very useful for sound. Hyperglide housings are kind of effed, so it’s best to go with pre-tooled or 2017-retooled. Even used, beat-up ones are okay as long as the housings aren’t scuffed. You might find something affordable on mechmarket or the like. Mechanicalkeyboards.com still sells older Cherry switches, you could phone them and ask for pre-Hyperglide.

[HungerMechanic]

You might want to ask your question about housings in this thread:

Cherry Profile Interference with Southfacing Switches

I can confirm the row 3 interference for ePBT ABS sets, though I don’t know if this is a result of stem length. Also the ePBT dyesub PBT standard homing keys which are barred and scooped, interfere with switches regardless of their orientation – some sets may have separate molds for each, but I don’t know for sure. Solutions that work for north facing switch interference could help here to, namely the interference washers if you can find them in your region. I know two of these stacked remov…

[HungerMechanic]

Hey,

I wanted to let you know that earlier, I compiled a list of things people have done to improve Meteor Orange switches.

Some of it is from Keebtalk itself. You can read it below:

Some disparate things people have done to improve SP Star Meteor switches:

1. Lube over factory lube with either 105g0 or 105g0/205g0 mix.

Apparently, you can lube everything [housing, stem, spring] with 105g0, and it should be okay.

2. Film switch - KBDFans films will work, but apparently the best results may come from 0.15mm TX.

3. Springs may be a source of noise, so it is possible that 57mm TX springs should be used.

4. One person replaced the tops with Cherry tops, which is probably sorely needed.

---

Film for Meteors

sj_does_things

I believe at the time I didn’t film the switches but they now have TX Switch Films inside of them. Makes them feel even better!

Blue Ash

@sj_does_things Ah I see! Thank you very much for letting me know! If you don’t mind me asking,did you get the 0.125mm or 0.150mm films? I’m purchasing these switches for myself too and its my first time modding a keyboard. Hopefully,mine will turn out as great as yours!

sj_does_things

@Blue Ash I used 0.15mm films and they worked like a charm. The stem wobble was noticeable before but now are almost completely gone.

---

Testimonial

So my SP Star Meteor Orange switches finally arrived and after some modding… I can say they’re a definite contender for a good, light-tactile switch.

I lubed the switches with Triobsys 3203, deskey filmed, and spring swapped with 55g TX springs. The 55g TX springs made the bump ever so slightly rounder but smoother compared to the stock 57g springs which gave the switch a somewhat sharp bump. So depending on what you like, I would either stick with the stock springs for a sharper bump or swap with tx springs for a rounder, slightly smoother-feeling bump. If I were to compare the switch; in terms of tactility it’s between a cherry mx brown and ergo clear and in general… a lighter tactile, smoother ergo clear. I will say, a problem the switch has is that it is a bit noisy. Even after lubing, there’s still some after noise which I believe comes from the leaf. Even so, definitely my new favorite light tactile switch (although there wasn’t really any contenders to begin with).

[M0narch]

A little update, the Meteors are inbound. ETA is in a couple of days. Hahahaha
So for the meantime I’m using the JWK Obisidian V2s/Lagoons and Huano Holytoms. So far I like the Holytoms better primarily because it feels lighter than the Obsidians and they have a deeper sound profile. So far I want tactiles to be a little more lighter? Just enough that they’re there feeling and fast actuating?

@HungerMechanic

Some disparate things people have done to improve SP Star Meteor switches:

1. Lube over factory lube with either 105g0 or 105g0/205g0 mix.

This would be the easiest for me to do and film the Meteor Oranges with 0.15mm TXs. Being it as what you describe as a light tactile, I am excited to pamper the Meteor Oranges as much as I can! WIll keep this updated when the meteors make their impact. Haha! Quick question what happens when I decide to replace the springs if I want faster actuations? Should I opt for shorter springs or lighter force actuation springs? Thank you very much!

[M0narch]

So this is my first time lubing switches. I am a newbie haha!
I lubed the JWK Lagoons/Obsidian V2s (RTYFGH) keys
the (QWEASD) keys are factory lubed Huano Holytoms. Am I correct that I’m hearing scratchiness from the Holytoms? or both of them? The Lagoons doesn’t feel as scratchy tho. I need people with better ears for this. haha!

[HungerMechanic]

Interesting. I’m not familiar with the Holy Toms, but I have tried Huano Banana, and they are pretty fun. They are like an Ergo Clear on steroids, very strong and positive action, almost clicky. Very loud switch, though.

Seems like you might like medium-tactiles. Holy Toms might be on the upper end of that spectrum, I’m not sure. Medium tactiles are fine, there is a range of choices there. Might want to try SP Star Purple, 65 G Durock Medium Tactile, Twilights, or even Kiwis although they are pretty spicy.

One thing I enjoyed was Ergo Clears made with springs that actuated at 60 G and bottomed-out around 65 G. They were very poppy. You knew you were pressing them, but they were fast. [You can also stick light-tactile stems in a T1 housing at ~65 G and they are pretty snappy as well].

WRT your question about springs for the Meteor Orange, I’m not sure what is best. It seems heavily subjective. 60 G [Long] springs will give you a very poppy switch, but the high weight at the top detracts from the already-limited tactility. 55 G 14mm TX is lower than the stock weight and could create a more-rounded bump, but it may be larger because of the low top-weight, and I don’t like that. You should try it though: 55 G 14mm TX.

The thing about Meteor Orange is, it’s a very light tactile. The way you treat a switch like that is just lightly glide over it. You don’t need to pound it, it will just actuate as you roll over it. That’s where your ‘pampering’ comes in handy.

Anyway, a “long” spring like 16mm TX should give it faster actuation, probably, since it will return vigorously. Might want to experiment with 57 G and 60 G L springs, even 60 G L seemed like overkill for the Meteor Orange to me. I’ll go try the springs again tomorrow.

WRT to scratchiness, I’m not sure I’m the person to ask. I’m used to Cherry switches, after all! They sound way worse stock than any of yours do. Perhaps someone here can help.

[djmantis]

Can I ask how much you paid for your SP-Star Oranges? I have only been able to find them https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001825286738.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7704111bGRgrRk&algo_pvid=fefe8a03-cecf-40ea-8cf6-b99ba959cbd6&algo_exp_id=fefe8a03-cecf-40ea-8cf6-b99ba959cbd6-5&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000017752725441"}

I am interested, but kind of surprised to see that they are not as cheap as I though…

[M0narch]

Thank you, bro! I might dabble with springs next. It makes sense now about the longer springs being more responsive! Haha! My meteors are a few hours away and I’m excited! I hope I do a better job lubing them now.

[M0narch]

I bought a pack of 90s for aroung $49 w/ shipping from Lazada. It’s kinda like our Aliexpress but primarily focused on the Southeast Asian Market. Keybox SP-Star Meteor White/Orange Switch For Customized Mechanical Keyboard 5 Pins Switches 57g | Lazada PH?

I didn’t think also that they would cost that much. It’s like a middle ground between the entry level and the premium ones?

[HungerMechanic]

You can get them in the U.S. for $5.50 / pack:

Sp-Star Meteor Orange Tactile mechanical switch

I bought my Meteor Orange switches from the same place on AliExpress that you listed.

At the time, it was a summer-sale. [Late June]. So I was able to buy them for $5.06 CAD per pack of 10. They came shipped in individual plastic bags of 10.

They are pricier than you would expect them to be. I think it’s because there are very limited distribution channels for SP Star switches. I’ve even heard of exclusivity agreements for U.S. retailers.

[HungerMechanic]

Sure thing! As I mentioned, it may be best just to start lubing a couple parts of the stem, and then maybe move on to further parts if that works out.

In terms of poppy springs, one thing I’ve noticed is that stock custom-line OUTEMU springs [the kind you can order from Gazzew for Bobas and Silent Sky] are pretty poppy/heavy for their weight. So putting a 62 G OUTEMU custom spring should really drive that Meteor Orange! Maybe even the 55 G would be poppy. And they are cheap.

[M0narch]

Update! So I spent all night lubing and filming my Meteor Oranges

Used:
Krytox C205g0 for the stem and bottom housing
Krytox GPL 105 for the springs
0.15mm TX Films

Now I know how light of a tactile it is and I fully agree with @HungerMechanic about replacing it with long springs. I tried swapping the spring of a Holytom with one of my Meteor Oranges and they instantly felt a lot better. Might buy 16mm Long springs next haha!

[M0narch]

Here’s a sound test
Keyboard: Pulsar PCMK TKL
Switches: SP Star Meteor Orange, lubed and filmed

[HungerMechanic]

Looks like you were pretty thorough.

Long [16mm] springs are definitely an option, and will work. Some people prefer the 60 G, which is what you are considering. A long spring can give some extra ‘simulated’ tactility if the stem tactility is already extremely low.

I personally would have gone for a 105g0/205g0 mix, but as long as you are careful I guess 205g0 can work in the switches. PBT keycaps might be a bit overkill. They will give better sound, but may reduce tactility of light tactiles. I use ABS with Meteor Orange, even with giant MT3 keycaps. You can compensate for the oft-inferior sound of GMK by using Cherry tops on the Meteors.

[M0narch]

@HungerMechanic

PBT keycaps might be a bit overkill. They will give better sound, but may reduce tactility of light tactiles

Oh wow so that’s why! I didn’t know it would affect it that way. Thanks man, I learned something new again today. Thank you! The stock keycaps of my pcmk are the low profile ones, I might try them later. Took me around 4 hours to do everything. I tried my best to be careful with the 205g0 coz I don’t want my Meteor Oranges to feel like linears. Haha!

[M0narch]

@HungerMechanic I think I found a good spring haha!

Two sectioned 58g 22mm springs similar to the Huano Holytoms

[HungerMechanic]

What kind of effect would you say they have on the typing?