They were supposed to go out last week, but it looks like not all of them have yet. I’ll hound the warehouse about it this week. Apologies for the delay.
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Excited to see it shipped out this week!!!
It looks like some enterprising hero added Via support to the FC660C firmware! Just need to remove my bottom plate and hit that reset button one final time…
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Spoke too soon 
EDIT: odd, I had to download the “Via” version of the firmware here, for some reason it wasn’t working with the fresh master version from the QMK configurator.
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This is normal. The via enabled hex is different from a standard hex. If you have a PCB that is “VIA Supported”, it might not be VIA supported out of the box until the VIA supported hex is loaded onto the PCB.
Some are supported out of the box, but fortunately it’s a pretty painless process you have to do once per board for the VIA enabled hex if it isn’t loaded by default
I get that now. I guess I assumed that the version from the QMK repo that had Via support added to it would work with Via.
I would like to hear from Heavy-6 owners in what they believe are the benefits of switching from the plastic case to a metal enclosure?
Personally, I think that it adds more thock the board and the metal feels good to the touch. A very premium endgame experience.
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Sound wise i think with the stock case it already sounds very good. You can still make it thockier by putting more dampening material in the case. People would still do the same with the Heavy-6.
However it is the feeling that makes the difference. The Heavy-6 is so solid and hefty that put a smile on my face everytime i lay my fingers on it. The old FC600C version comes with the INSERT Led and the Hasu controller board is my favorite pairing because I can configure it to blink with the INSERT Led every keystroke. Very satisfying!
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Yeh the board is super solid and I love it.
Pretty cool idea with the led, maybe I’ll give it a try. Is that done through the action codes?
Yes, it can be achieved with the QMK configurator. If you need the code i can dig it out too. The location of the INSERT Led is perfect for the blinks.
Oh yeah definitely!
Here you go. Just paste the following codes at the end of your keymap.c file should allow you to perform the mentioned effect. Enjoy!
#define LED_ON() PORTB &= ~(1<<5)
#define LED_OFF() PORTB |= (1<<5)
#define LED_DURATION 100
static uint16_t last_ms = 0;
bool process_record_user(uint16_t keycode, keyrecord_t *record) {
if (record->event.pressed) {
LED_ON();
last_ms = timer_read();
}
if (TIMER_DIFF_16(last_ms, timer_read()) > LED_DURATION) {
LED_OFF();
}
return true;
}
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I got my veracity steel heavy 6 yesterday. Needless to say, it’s a masterpiece. I’ll post photos when I get it up and running.
Your guys had already let me know that they forgot to include the feet and some screws. I appreciate the quick resolution of the issue, and I look forward to getting this thing on my desktop soon.
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Any ideas if this can somehow be fixed? The powder-coating of my enigma gray heavy 6 just randomly flaked away at the edge without being hit by something hard enough, It just came off after I stroke it with my left hand.
Black sharpie? 
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embrace the wear my friend. i’ve got the same going on with a retro h6–got it pre-owned–and it makes life easy bc i’m less worried about keeping it pristine.
there’s keebtalkers here who’ve gotten their norbauer housings redone, hoping they chime in.
I have gotten a Norbaforce re-finished (powder-coated) but it was originally an anodized model (tactical black) which I understand is very easy to strip.
From what I’ve been told, however, it is very difficult to strip powder-coating and that it’s typically done at a powder coating shop only.
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hi norbauer, any change heavy 6 tactical black is available in near future. if so, how much ít would cost? thank you.
No plans at present, I’m sorry to say.
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@philipp I followed up by email on this to you directly, but @pixelpusher I would advise against the Sharpie approach. I have found that Sharpie ink on aluminum tends to have a slightly purple cast, which frankly doesn’t look lovely against a black powder.
The above housing was obtained on the secondary market, so it’s possible it might have gotten a bump that loosened the paint before he got it, or it might simply have been a batch that wasn’t coated at the exact right temperature/time. I had one small batch of K2 in the past where the powder flaked off fairly easily because it had been taken out of the oven slightly too early. However, in those cases, you tend to see it all over the part rather than just one spot. (Normally adhesion between powder and metal is very strong, so it should never flake off with just a simple touch.) In any case the advantage of powder is that it can be stripped and re-applied without significant damage to the part. For Royal Wrinkle, pretty much any powder coater can match that finish but fwiw I use Prismatic’s Black Wrinkle.
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