You probably know this already, but for anyone who stumbles on this and is confused. The important thing to note is the items in Control Center, the controls you get by swiping down on your phone, donât actually turn off these networking features. Instead they turn off new connections. Only the Settings (gear icon âappâ) on the phone really turns them off.
This is in addition to the functionality that you get from the radios that always enable Find My so your iPhone canât be lost unless you turn off Find My.
I believe the reason why they remain enabled from Control Center is so that stuff like an Apple Watch continues to work, since it often relies on your iPhoneâs network connection and so on.
yes, good point. I actually didnât know that until I started looking into how this was happening. I assumed thatâs how it was still mirroring once I found out, but after actually removing the wifi connection info on both devices it still worked. Interesting tech. Still not thrilled about the idea that a network connection happens in my house without my knowledge (I assume I gave consent in one of those 200 page user agreements that no one reads)
I ran across a new post on reddit that discussed a way of using 2mm masking tape to wrap the top and back of the tactile leaf to eliminate leaf ping. I canât find the post for some reason.
Anywhoo⌠I ordered the tape and got it today. Doesnât do anything at all from my tests. Taped up 4/5 switches and put them in a board. Canât tell a difference. All have tactile leaf ping.
The only thing that has ever worked for me in eliminating leaf ping is light lube at the top curve of the leaf. Iâve been using EM30L because itâs cheap, easy to apply from a dropper bottle, and doesnât have silicone so itâs not supposed to mess with contacts. Would highly recommend!
Not sure if this is just me but, after using raw Cherry MX Oranges for a while, smooth switches on other boards feel less smooth. Itâs as if fingers are expecting MX Orange level smoothness and, when the expectation is not met, it starts hallucinating whatâs expected. Weird. Thankfully, it doesnât last for long.
Oh my goodness, not just agreeing, but completely stopping production in Germany. All those folks working there making a living wage will lose their job. Capitalism wins again I guess.
Socially responsible manner my a&$. I know this is Germany, but I no longer believe puff words like that from anyone.
I know why itâs done, Iâm just not a fan. Iâd rather have fewer layout options in favor of consistency, but I get that a PCB is easier to fund if it can appeal to a wider audience - ISO and ANSI enjoyers alike, for example.
Check that tilted pipe key. How noticeable this is depends on the switch and how much of a front/back tilt it has - but pretty much all of them have at least a little. Swapping-in some Roller switches on the pipe and enter keys definitely helped, though:
Still there if you look for it, but doesnât jump-out so much. The sideways pipe switch is my only actual complaint about the Tess65 itself, and the only thing that keeps it from being an âA+â entry-custom in my book.
Still a solid âA-â for itâs super-reasonable pricing, build quality, and sound.
THIS! I 1000% agree with your sentiment on sideway sockets for the sake of layout options. I get that usually having more layouts is more better, but it definitely does suck when you never ever use those options. I have had a couple boards where the tilt was pretty bad and also pressing down on that key was sub-optimal.
Also random note, but is Geekhackâs site not working for any of you guys here. Last night I kept getting a bad gateway error trying to visit it, and I thought maybe it would work the next day but nope.
I tend to use sticky-tack or Sugru or the like to jam in and stabilize those sort of plate problems.
If you think itâs bad for ANSI layouts, you should try it with ISO. The stab holes for ISO overlap with the hole for the enter switchâs center stem, which maybe 50% of the time causes the stab to slide out of position slightly.
Iâve taken to using stab shims on 1.6mm PCBs to deal with it, and mostly seems to work. The sticker shims from Swagkeyâs V3 Knight stabs work pretty well for it.
Iâve been getting sporadic errors since Sunday, and itâs been down almost constantly since Monday evening. Really helpful for interest checks launched this week.
Sideway sockets to support ISO Enter is something I personally wonât do on my PCBs, since it forces the ANSI configuration (95%+ people will use this configuration) to be sideways.
Thereâs the tilt issue, but I think more importantly - switch stems are not always the same thickness in both directions. So sideway switches can cause caps to crack.
As a keyboard/PCB designer it kinda upsets me when people say we should always add ISO + ANSI Enter support on hotswap PCBs without understanding the underlying issues it could cause.
