Things that make us go... hmmm šŸ¤”

Make a necklace out of them. 20 or so years ago i made stuff of beer bottle caps on a string. Now my brains damgagedt.

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Assuming this is not a scam, someone got a $500 discount on a Pandora60 and a $300-400 discount on a Lin Whale 75.

This reminds me of how MM was many years ago. Boards selling mostly for cost or lower (with a few exceptions like TGR/OTD/Etc.)

Definitely made me say Hmmm…

This one popped up today as well. People don’t remember how small the 75% market was a few years ago.

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The first one does seem kinda sus…

I forgot that the orange75 was a thing. I have the tkl version; there weren’t as many TKLs back then either. I actually really like it, I like a good 0° angle board and the look is still pretty unique imo, but at the time I wanted a meme board and built it with kailh speed silvers with 150g springs in them.

It’s not quite as bad as it sounds, the switches activate pretty close to the top so you don’t have to push them much, but I still cant use it daily or for anything serious. One of these days I’ll rebuild it.

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The KS65 is one hmm looking board and assembly. It’s a beut for sure, but this just seems like it would ping a bit with just magnets.

Seems like a lot of points of failure which could end up with a rattle. Are people really that concerned with putting screws through the bottom of a case?

Or just use a screwless design like other boards that screws the case together from the bottom and screws a weight to cover the bottom through the PCB assembly…

You know what I think would rock? Put a hinge on the inside of the top and an ornamental sliding/locking mechanism on the front. Put a thin gasket to compress as it closes to eliminate ping for ā€œforce breakā€ mod.

Like these cases
image

Talk about easy access to the PCB :stuck_out_tongue:

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They appear to be using 11 (or 22?) N52 magnets to hold this together. I wonder if this would be challenging to assemble without nicking the finish or damaging the case or components.

N52 magnets are shockingly strong even at small sizes. A 1/4" dia. x 1/16" thick N52 magnet has a pull strength of about 1.47 lbs (or 4.42 lbs when sandwiched between two steel plates).

I’d also be a little concerned about having strong magnets near my other electronics on my desk…

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When’s the IC for your PianoHinge 65? :wink:

I’m with you on keeping screws on the bottom or hidden by other methods. ai03’s designs seem to be completely screwless until you take off the keycaps.

And I don’t think anything beats tray mount for ease of access to internals for a testing board.

Now someone design this thing:

Quick and dirty access to the PCB for hotswap changes. You have to imagine it could be beautifully executed and not just resizing a dewalt bit holder :stuck_out_tongue:

Or have it close like a campinbro’s cooler:

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I unironically would buy that, but i feel like it needs a knockoff Dewalt sticker somehwere

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Just missing a side-mount USB port (barf) or make this wireless only. I think you’re onto something here!

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Dude, I was just reading up on N52 magnets and there’s all these precautions listed. This doesn’t feel like a good idea anymore at all.

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Ha, yeah - my dad nipped one of his fingertips pretty good between a pair of those.

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Large N52 magnets are scary strong, particularly at very large sizes. The description for these 625 lb pull-strength magnets should warn off any curious idiots like me:

Two of these stuck together are impossible to separate by hand.

Fortunately, the risk of injury or real danger is low for small N52 magnets, like the ones used on this keyboard case. It’s not really clear what size these magnets are on the KS65, but I question the logic here. If the magnets have a similar sturdiness to screws, it’s going to be tricky to not scratch the aluminum case finish whenever you put it together or take it apart. If it’s designed to be reasonably easy to take apart, you run the risk of the case being rattly or separating if you don’t pick it up carefully.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that the Datamancer wooden Preonic case uses neodymium magnets to hold the wrist rest/keyboard cover together, but they appear to be very small magnets and easy to separate throughout the day as needed. Similar idea, but different execution.

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Just saw a post of someone selling their BCPs and refer to them as ā€œreal BCPsā€. I realize there can be a strict interpretation of what constitutes a Black Cherry Pie switch but it’s a frankenswitch after all.

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As far as I’m aware, the original Black Cherry Pie is Cream stem, Alpaca bottom, Cherry MX top. I’ve seen quite a few different variations of them, so that’s probably why the seller was marketing them as ā€œrealā€.

Why not call them original bcp?

Lost in translation perhaps :man_shrugging:

Are the KBDfans Topre keycaps really so bad that they can’t unload full Biip sets for $30?

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Not bad, just terribly mid and 100 times worse than standard Topre caps (which are some of the best in the business, imo)

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Has Ryan ever made a set of EC keycaps?

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