@macclack started a thread about keyboard chores and while I was writing my reply, I was drifting off into my unfinished projects and what’s keeping me away from finishing them. So I thought, that should probably better go into its own thread. And here is it.
Here’s my list of unfinished builds, at least those where I mostly know where I want or wanted to go (not counting unused key cap sets or PCBs, etc.):
A MiniVan third party case from StrataKB where some of the plate webs were so thin that they broke on the first switch insertion. For some reason I’m reluctant to write to the manufacturer, because that would be a rather unfriendly rant about how these plates could have ever worked for anyone. (Granted, it might have worked slightly better — if at all — for old, non-hotswap MiniVan PCBs. But with hotswap PCBs, the included plate is completely unusable, also because there’s no support from more than one side for any switch with a stab. Just recently I ripped out keycaps and switches for another project.
Two 60% builds in wooden cases with hotswap, a GK64 layout (i.e. a cursor key block in the lower right corner and 0.25u offset between all alphabetic key rows) and being fully programmable.
- Still have to find a PCB with all these features.
- The GK64 PCB itself is not not QMK-compatible.
- There’s a DZ60 variant which supports the GK64 layout, but it is not hotswappable.
- The hotswap DZ60RGB PCB does not support the GK64 layout.
- I probably need to get a non-hotswap, fully programmable PCB (likely the non-hotswap DZ60) and make it hotswap with Millmaxes.
- Nevertheless I put in a DZ60RGB PCB to get it at least into a usable state for now.
- But the plate I already bought only supports the GK64 layout due to a different offset of row 4, so I currently have no plate for it.
- Despite I have a PCB in there, I actually never used it, because the Control key caps (SA Carbon) scratch on the inner corners of the wooden case with wrist pad from KPRepublic. It seems as if the mount points in that case are not exactly where they should be because the upper gap between PCB and case is rather large compared to the bottom gap which is nearly inexistent. It also could be an issue of the mount points of the PCB, but I somehow doubt that as that PCB seems to be quite common. Pictures:
Probably need to get a Dremel or so to get that 60% case fixed. Just using a file didn’t work out.
- Haven’t even started the sister build of the project shown in the pictures: It is planned with the same PCB, but inside a wooden Datamancer case with lid.
- Still have to find a PCB with all these features.
A KBD19X where I started soldering in Millmaxes, probably destroyed one lane or so while doing so, and then also noticed that the plate doesn’t really work properly for hotswap sockets. I guess I have to order a second PCB and write off the money I paid for these Millmaxes. And then I’ll have to finally decide which switches go in — which doesn’t make it easier to continue on that project.
A not yet started Kira80 build, mostly because I want to gain more soldering experience before I touch that precious thing. Especially the KBD19X fuckup must not happen again with this build.
[DONE 2020-Apr-15] A not yet started JD40 full brass build — still have to figure out, if it’s suitable for making it hotswap with Millmaxes. Also I haven’t figured out which keycaps best go with brass.
A nearly finished Daisy with HHKB-style alumnium case (both from KPRepublic) which I haven’t yet managed to flash with a new firmware. All manuals just didn’t work (IIRC).
[DONE 2020-Apr-18] A not yet started BM43a from KPRepublic build whose “orange” case was more a rosé gold — not really pink, but definitely nothing I’d call orange. Not sure what to do with that. Maybe using it as guinea pig for a custom anodization service.
Some boards I initially forgot in this posting and added retroactively to it for completeness:
[2020-Apr-02] A local chance purchase for a Ginny kit (or Ginni, the developer seems to not to be able to decide; 10 keys and ASETNIOP layout) — haven’t built it yet as I haven’t yet decided if I want to try to make it hotswap with Millmaxes (has no case, so this might be difficult) or if not, which switches should go in. It is recommended to only use lightweight switches (or maybe even swap in 3rd-party springs around 20g) — due to having to press many switches at the same time quite often — and I mostly have medium to heavy weight switches in stock. Also not sure if should really start to use choc switches for that keyboard, because there’s not much choice in keycaps for choc switches.
[2020-Apr-18] A naked (unpainted) black TKC 1800 with green plate. Got it for a bit less than normal when a bunch of them were up on Massdrop a year ago or so. Planned with GMK >Terminal_ R2 (hence the green plate).
Might become my next “home holidays” or weekend-during-COVID-19-lockdown build, but I just ran out of Millmax hotswap sockets, (Well, there are still enough left for another 40% build, but not for a full-size build.)
Additionally I run out of my favourite switches (Zealios, Zilents, Kailh Box Royal, Kailh Box Navy and Kailh Box Jades), Still have a bag of nice and orange Healios, so I might just use them initially although they’re planned them for some build with orange keycaps.
I ordered some more Zealios and Zilents at Massdrop’s leftovers shop “Yanbo’s Closet” about two or three weeks ago, but they’re not yet even shipped, probably due to COVID-19…
Hmmm, now that I’m writing that down, quite some of fuckups listed in here happened due to subpar quality from KPRepublic. Maybe I should stop shopping there. Then again, they often have this difficult to find stuff…