You can see that there is no real transparency, except on the outer edges of the keycap where there is only a thick single-layer of transparent charcoal.
So, they are fairly consistent in their lighting, but they are mostly opaque.
You can see them beside opaque DMK keycaps. In fact, they look as if they are from similar molds. I would say the Domikey is about 20-30% creamier and grippier than the “Pyga.” So you could say that maybe these are 70% of Domikey quality.
They sound a little more insectile [chittery] whereas the Domikey is a little thockier [and I don’t like to use that word, but may be the case here.] Typing on the Pyga is fine.
Said differently, I’ve been using these for three minutes and they’re already one of my very favorite light tactiles. In my perception, light tactiles are the most difficult common sub-type to execute well, and I think these folks nailed it.
This isn’t the thread for it, but I agree completely!
After experimenting with switches since 2018, I’ve come to the exact same conclusion. I wrote about it somewhere else recently. Basically, any small thing that goes wrong with leaf, spring, housing and stem texture, you will notice.
You can’t just slather them in lube like a linear, or be dominated by a big bump or click.
Light tactile is just a small deviation from linear. You are already paying attention to that deviation. And anything that distracts from it will be noticed. Light tactiles need the best housings and springs, and best lubing. Any shortcomings are very apparent.
[This is one reason MX Browns are so controversial. Good concept, questionable execution.]
Light tactiles are finicky for sure. Balance of factors involved are so fine that the effect of adding film is often surprising and usually not for the better.
I found that simplest and most linear-fan friendly light tactiles to work with have bump at the top like Halo and Zealios v2 so, in effect, their bumps are used to make linears with extra weight only at the top. Long springs can do the same but only so far.
As to lubing, I’ve learn to appreciate 3203 a lot since I started tinkering with light tactiles.
I meant to ask when you first posted but got distracted. (Thanks, @HungerMechanic for the reminder!)
How do the Fleeting Gold switches feel in comparison to Pewters? Better/worse/not at all the same? I gravitate to heavier tactiles, but I was surprised to find I liked the Pewters as a nice change of pace.
Yes. I have found that adding films is an iffy proposition with switches like MX Clears, it can work or it can add annoyances.
One of the first ‘linears with a bump at the top’ was the Kailh Pro Purple. It was a flawed switch in stock form, as it was very scratchy. But if you lube them well, and put in something like a 63.5 G Spirit spring, it becomes for me something like a nice top-mounted linear.
And 3203 was long-recommended for MX Browns. [I still am only accustomed with 3204, but that restricts me from a number of light-tactiles.] Interestingly, some of the nicest Ergo Clears I ever used had been very carefully lubed with 3203. They used 63.5 G Progressive Spirit springs, were very smooth, and basically were crunchier Browns.
I paired this with old Outemu top housing I got from hbheroinbob before he hit struck gold w/Boba. Its sound signature matched my expectation . Its contact leaf is too strong for the stem I had in mind (Geon Lavender).
So I’m going to try pairing these with a linear long pole stem or a lighter tactile stem. I’m also going to get Boba LT bottom housings (what’s w/Gazzew part shortage lately?) bc they were perfect w/Baby Blue stems. Like snapping salted crackers in half: light but crisp snap.
Re my new deskpad: I’m not into deskpads, appearance wise. Got this one to primarily to hide stains. Unfortunately, it’s also good at hiding springs and small parts.
UPDATE: Found that my stash of RO-59 coated Kailh Black v2 stems fits U4T bottom housing without chamfering its long pole. Love it when Plan B works out.
I do have some Pewters to compare the Fleeting Golds with - though it’s a set I got second-hand. The seller said they’d opened some but not lubed any - but from what I can tell, some of them have some random grease in them - so take the comparison with a grain of salt.
Fishing through the jar for one that feels reasonably “stock” IE not gooey with grease…
They’re definitely both light tactiles and do have a lot in common, but side-by-side there are some distinctions.
Compared with Pewters, Fleeting Golds:
Are heavier overall
Have a heavier bottom-out weight
Seem to have a stronger bump
Also seem more sharp in the bump
Have shorter travel (long pole)
Are louder / more clacky thanks to that pole
Have a little less metallic noise (already not a lot for Pewters)
Have less N/S wobble but more E/W
Have a comparable bump starting point
Have comparably good housing fitment, perhaps a little better
I think the biggest difference is probably the long-pole factor, but at least to me the FGs feel a bit more… refined? I definitely think the bump is more clearly communicated with the newer switches.
Maybe more consistent - though that in particular might not be fair given the aforementioned caveat.
Also, @pixelpusher - there are lots of 90’s themes out there… but this one might be the most 90’s of them all. I haven’t thought about it in literal decades, but that keyset reminded me:
Got some switches. Keygeek Raws and Wuque Studio Morandis. Both feel great. I’ve never had a switch with a longer spring like the Keygeek Raw. It’s stated as 22mm. Very snappy feeling. For the Morandis I actually really like the sound. I saw it described as muted, and it is quiet but very pleasing to me.
Surprisingly local post office got to this package so quickly, only 1 day after customs clearance. Super wholesome note from @insolentpotato and many thanks to @Dave for developing these. It’s 2023 and USB-C ftw!
From left to right: Norbaforce MK1, Norbaforce MK2, and Novatouch daughterboards for my various Norbauer builds
Speaking of @Dave and his cool projects, did I ever share my 660-x build? This is the MX conversion of the FC660c to go in the heavy-6. Millmaxed PCB with a custom USB-C daughter board, it also has accommodation for underglow. Custom plate, too.
thank you @pixelpusher and @thelaughingman for your kind words. i also want to acknowledge @Goguma and @randyocean for early testing and fit check because i dont own a Norbatouch, only a stock Novatouch.
@Dave has had so many helpful works that keep our boards moving through connectivity and technology updates. am lucky to learn from him and this community.
Been away for awhile due to job & life stuff, hope everybody has been doing well! Finally got a chance to jump back on some keeb stuff thanks to this board I finally found for a good price! It’s a Compaq/Cherry G80-11800. Comes with MX browns (I think these would qualify for vint browns) & some pretty nice lasered PBT caps. I don’t think they’re Cherry made caps though as I got one that has the thinner caps. Ones with homing bumps have thicker caps which may be Cherry made.
Really can’t use the caps on many other boards as the Esc key, F keys, nav cluster, & numpad are all R3 profile. Plus the R shift is 2u, not 1.75u like on most G80-1800s. Got it for $73 dollars total on ebay & am pretty happy with it overall. The case got some scuffs to it & the trackball feels a little tight so it’s gonna be a project board. Although overall the board was pretty clean despite the scuffs. It was really clean under the caps & the switches have the most textbook broken in Cherry MX feel. Very smooth with just a slight slightly enjoyable scratch. I’m hopefully gonna get the trackball working better & keep it together, but worst case I got a batch of nice vint browns plus case & caps for a mod project.
That looks great on yours man! I do have the Matt3o Nerd Russian DSA set which might go well on mine, although the darker caps of 2077 really do pop on that case! Might have to search up a dark DSA set for mine too!
I saw it on-line years ago, and it amazed me. That image has been up for a while now.
I’d be elated if I had an 11800, esp. with “Vint Browns,” but I do not. Certainly, I’d be tempted to put 2077 on it. [Wish they’d make it in DSS!]
The 11800 with 2077 on it looks like it’s a console in Alien. Someone should mod it into Alien: Isolation. But I can only dream!
[You could try some kind of chocolatey set in the mean-time, like maybe a brown AF SA set or one of those new double-shot ABS hi-pro that come in brown.]
. Its contact leaf is too strong 
for the stem I had in mind (Geon Lavender).
