I can confirm the following from experience:
So, for folks who hate shorter key travel like me, I think Cream stem is long-pole done right.
I’ve been experimenting with various Topre to MX solutions for quite a while. Here are my findings:
TL;DR keep MX keycaps for MX builds and use Topre keycaps on Topre builds. If you really want MX keycaps your best bet is Shapeways, and even then you’ll probably need to cherrypick them. Out of all the Shapeways sliders I bought less than half of them were satisfactory.
Thanks! Very useful info. I want to dive back into Topre some day.
I’m not brave enough to do a full board in MX sliders, but I find for wanting to run a special keycap, a few don’t hurt the experience too much. And I’m using the JTK ones although I’ve got some Deskey sliders on order.
I’m curious about Shapeways though since they’re just a 3D printing service and I would think, as far as surface finish goes, they would have the least smooth of any of the aforementioned. Which could be the advantage for all I know. Are you referring to the ones that Matt3o created?
I got the ones designed by rixtox in the “Smoothest Fine Detail Plastic” option. It wasn’t smooth enough though so I had to sand them slightly. After doing that they actually became even smoother than Deskeys, but the main advantage of those are the stabilizers. They sounded much better than the Deskeys equivalent, although for a keycap or two that probably doesn’t make a difference.
For adding one or two MX keycaps the Deskeys sliders are just fine, although for a full MX slider board the Shapeways sliders were the closest I could get to original Topre sliders. With that being said, the safest option is the Deskeys sliders because you’re certainly going to get some faulty sliders from Shapeways due to tight tolerances.
Oof that’s rough… just like their texture 
I have my own FDM and resin printer so I think I’ll try printing some of the rixtox sliders myself and see how they turn out. They’ll probably need some after print care like sanding, but I’m curious if I can actually get a whole set for a whole keyboard going okay 
Oof that’s rough… just like their texture
My advice before installing them would be to check whether the keycaps actually fit on the stems. I had to disassemble my board because I was stupid enough not to check first hand and 4 of mine had crooked stems 
TIL that I can easily fall asleep to keyboard ASMR (specifically the typing part in this Keybored video)
HOLY MACARONI
Today I learned that / activates the search bar on most websites. Utterly 
that (a) I didn’t know that prior to today and (b) I now know that.
Edit: Ok, not “most”. I just tried 15 different websites, and it worked on half of them.
More “Today I Realized”, but anyways. My keycap storage is a mess right now. I got sets that didn’t come with a box sitting in cardboard boxes lined with bubble wrap to separate layers. All my GMK child kits in cases for cheaper sets, or stored the same as above, My GMK child kits are the biggest offender cluttering up my shelf. So I finally bit the bullet & ordered 10 JTK standard sized keycap trays. I always thought the JTK cases were top notch & 10 of them should be more than enough to fit all kmy GMK child kitsw & then some hopefully.
TBH, I’d love to be able to get enough JTK standard & MX trays to fit my whole collection. Although that’s wishful thinking at best. I’d need a good 30 standard & 5 or 6 max trays. A pretty hefty price for keycap storage there LOL!
I gave up with organizing keycaps. I used to get these nifty plastic bins for each of them, except as sets got bigger after 2017, they started having problems fitting which was unfortunate. I don’t like GMK trays since they take up too much valuable real estate (same issue with JTK trays) which is bad for me since I don’t have much.
As I’m getting closer and closer to a decade into the hobby, I go back to what I started with when it comes to keycaps organization. Praise be ziploc bags 
Honestly Huey, if this doesn’t get me organized to the point I want my caps to be. I think Ziploc bags will be my next move as much as I say I hate storing caps that way!
I gave up with the trays just recently. As much as I prefer that method of storage, I just didn’t have the room. So I bought these pouches, which are pretty heavy duty and have zippers.
So each set gets a bag and since they aren’t bulky, I can store quite a few sets in an average sized storage tub.
I dig those bags, pricey compared to just plain ziplocs but they’ll last way longer too. Also a couple storage tubs would take up much less space than what I got going on now. I’m getting close to 40 sets, more like 50+ if I count the sets I have from boards I harvested. Might have to look into these, thanks for the heads up!
This bag holds almost any keycap set out there without taking up too much extra space. Nice and sturdy, too.
Currently on my 3rd pack of 200 count 
I don’t remember when I passed the 1:1 keyboard to keycap set ratio, but things got a little out-of-hand since that point.
I’m afraid to count how many I have in here, but storing them in bags definitely helps cut down on the amount of dead space.
TIL that Cherry Pie frankenswitch with NK Cream stem and Cherry Black is best made with Hyperglide top housing.
I had a perfectly fine set of Cherry Pie made with Hyperglides but, while transplanting them to a Cherry Black board, I stupidly swapped top housing to save time. Later when I tried using them, I found a few switches that felt too tight. They turned out to have retooled Cherry Black top housings. Replacing them with Hyperglide top housing fixed the issue.
I don’t know if bottom housing also matter. Top housings are easy to identify but bottom housing is all over the place.
do you film them?
That I cannot build a keyboard without forgetting I have loose screws in the case, flipping the keyboard around, and spending the next few minutes searching the floor.
Today I sent eight screws from my Hidari to various corners of the room. All accounted for this time, but I am inevitably going to lose a screw at some point.
Yes. They were tight enough to affect stem movement even without the film.
