What did you learn today?

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This has been my approach thus far. lol

This is a great idea and much more efficient than trying to open each one and compare the springs, as I had thought I would need to do. No idea why I didn’t consider pressing them together.

It’s reassuring that I’m not alone here on Goddamnit Island! :sweat_smile:

It will interesting to see if it works for the 4g spring weight difference in my case. Moves it into the science experiment column rather than just frustrating, so there’s an improvement. And if I can’t find it, moves it back to the ā€œThere is no difference if you cannot find it, Grasshopperā€.

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Much to my surprise, I learnt today that my Tata80 with the Aflion Blue Skies sounds deeper than my Ginkgo65 with the Black Sesame switches, which I had previously thought were the deepest sounding switches I own…:flushed: I’m confused :wink:

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TIL that QMX stabs are dramatically more sensitive to over-greasing than others.

I used a generous coat of XHT-BDZ on the wire-ends as I have with Equalz and TX stabs - the spacebar is ultra-gummy and barely returns, while the other keys feel varying degrees of gummy. Oof. Well - I’ll take another whack at that. Not today though :stuck_out_tongue:

But hey the rattle is totes gone

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I got mine on a board today. Not bad. They do feel a bit restrictive on certain off-center presses. However, I don’t hear any signs of rattle. I did a tiny bit of 205g0 for plastic on plastic and a small amount of dielectric on the wires and where the wires clip into the housings.

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Today I realized I really don’t care about smoothness, I’m here using stock Hyperglide MX Reds (that aren’t that far than the retooled version) and I’m enjoying them no less than my lubed JWKs.

In fact I don’t think I’ll be lubing them, the spring barely reverbs with a PC plate (can’t hear it unless it’s dead silent) and the leaf doesn’t make any noise.

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TIL it’s not really a great idea to bring a clear polycarb keyboard to work at a print shop (paper dust). Just a few hours in and the inside of my Mojo looks like a snow globe.

Well. I’ve been meaning to get one of those air duster things….

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You might have a new idea on your hand… Cookies and Cream keycaps is a thing, and that looks like someone’s ink cartridge blew up over their BoW.

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Using an extremely stable switch with stem sidewalls (TTC Ace) helped clean up some persistent rattle on one of my spacebars. The stabilizers need redoing, but I think some play in the spacebar stem holes was contributing to the bar itself rattling on some presses. I had never considered this.

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TIL that AirPod noise cancellation can make perfect silent switch out of any switch as well as fix all rattles, ticks, and squeaks…while battery lasts.

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TIL that you can take the human out of Europe, but you can’t take Eurovision out of the human :wink:

(Actually I’ve not that for quite a while, but it seems I need a refresher every year :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:)

TIL that if I want to order something from KPRepublic to my little yankee-doodle town, their Amazon store is the way to go.

  • Website: expensive shipping, pretty slow

  • eBay store: ultra-expensive shipping, expedited

  • Amazon store: free shipping, slow

I was looking at some CIY Asura switches on their eBay store (thanks for the heads-up on these @Neprawda!) and almost bought them there thanks to the very friendly price of 20 cents per switch - until I saw that shipping was $40 for $20 worth of switches! (Expedited is the only option here.) The price is the same on the Amazon store, but shipping is free - just not expedited.

As for the switches, they’re POK-stemmed and apparently short, snappy tactiles kinda like ChosFox Voyagers - but way cheaper.

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What about their AliExpress store? shipping is as slow as their website but you would also have Ali’s protection (that isn’t much, but it’s helpful when item doesn’t arrive).

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I got these in today. I ordered off their Amazon store. It took less than 2 weeks for them to arrive, so not bad IMO.

The tactile, Asura, are a bit too strong of a bump for me. I’ll certainly try them in a full board, but they remind me of zeal v2, or box Jade tactility.

The linear, Naraka, are very short travel. It’s listed as 3.3mm ±0.2mm. I measured with calipers and got 3.17mm. The spring is 21mm and gets fairly heavy at the bottom. With these factors, and the POK material, the result is a short travel switch that sounds rather muted, like a heavily lubed switch. These seem more up my alley, but again, I’ll have to get them in a board.

The Naraka might be a good switch for a case that has less desirable acoustics (hollow, or high-pitched).

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Got them in a board. I’m having a hard time getting used to the short travel. Feels even shorter than the medium switches to me.

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How do the CIY Asura switches sound stock? Any ticks/pings/crunch/etc?

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TIL about the leaf shroud mod, linked as a suggestion on Invokeys’ discounted Blueberry Chiffon page. It’s supposed to help with the leaf noise found on many light tactiles:

It also seems like it generally deepens the sound, which opens up more options in that arena generally.

Those leftover film bits keep on being useful… I can think of lots of switches I’d use more after a mod like this.

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Woo. That’s an interesting idea. Although I don’t have those left-over pads bc I use TX films, I think regular paper should work just as well as long as the paper is touch the leaf without interfering with its operation.

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While experimenting with leaf hat mod, I recreated that ticking noise mentioned by a few folks on this forum.

Switch: Kailh Black v2 housing + MX Clear stem

Observations:

  • tick appears when I swap spring.
  • tick disappeared when I applied leaf hat mod using paper to top housing.

This suggests ticking noise I observed comes from the top part of contact leaf interacting with top housing.

It’s still not clear if my ticks are same kind of ticks others heard though.

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TIL why switches in a tester sounds not only better but louder when tester is on flat surface than when held in hand: Air movement.

To verify, I covered the underside of a 2x2 acrylic switch tester with painter’s tape, like tape mod. Now switches sound the same whether it’s laid down or held in hand.

UPDATE: Since PCB will get in the way unless it’s custom built, a hand-wired board made out of tall columnar switch slots and underside sealed could be interesting. Underside seal could be designed to let variable amount of air in using a dial, making sound adjustable.

UPDATE2: Another board design idea: add valves on board sides that can let some air out the sides to control volume. Hmm. Woofer?

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