So accurate photos !
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Mill-max sockets, TRRS cable for Helix, PC case for Infernum. Board should be delivered tomorrow!!
Edit: 6 more Planck plates, variety of stainless, black and white POM
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Thought I was way behind, but it looks like I’m kind of caught up. 
Since the last post: 90 more Jades, 60 more Mill-Max, Rescue Truck for a Minivan, Vault35 for a Katana layout. and a keyboard bridge so I can still use mechs while on the couch.
and probably** an HHKB Vault35**
By any chance does anyone have the MIA Cosmos from HIBI?
Thinking of getting it but I haven’t found any other photos other than the product ones.
Tofu TKL in silver. Copper bottom, copper weights. Silver wrist rest. Extra PCBs and plates.
I was in hospital when the pre-sale was live so missed it and I’ve been waiting for the extras. Annoyingly it was due to go live at 8AM CN time which is the middle of the night for me, but… while I was looking at the product page I noticed that they seemed to be available. Even with a ticker at the top of the page saying 16 hours to go.
I was worried that I’d order, it would get canceled and I’d not have the funds to but in time, but I took the chance and it went through fine 
I actually wanted a raw one, but there were none. Maybe get a top when R2 happens next month (February 22nd to March 8th according to their discord, in case anyone is looking for one)
In all honesty I really want an F1. This was to be my cheap stop gap version, but it ended up costing about as much as one once I specced all that copper lol.
Anyway, it arrives tomorrow. Hope my desk is strong enough as it is 5.8KG unbuilt 
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Thank you for the answer.
There are so many profiles out there that MOA had scaped me.
Is it really comfortable for long writing sessions? I’ve only used OEM, Cherry and those super flat ones on laptops.
Also is MOA completely flat? because I’ve seen several diagrams on the internet and some suggest a tiny bump upwards, others seem completely flat and other seem to have a small depression to put the finger into.
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I’m from spain, but we do occasionally use the Ç. (for typing Barça mostly xD) but yeah the Ç and the Ñ are a must 
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Each individual MOA keycap has a small depression for your finger, with a dramatically rounded top rim. Cherry and OEM give each row of keys a slightly different shape to angle the top of the keycaps towards the fingertips of someone using proper “home row” typing technique, which is called “sculpt.” In contrast, MOA uses the same shape for every row, with the plane of the top parallel with the bottoms, so they are “flat” in that sense. I am beginning to see profiles inspired by MOA, or even adapted from their molds, that are gently sculpted, but those are still pretty rare.
My wife at least uses them as her only keyboard when she’s working from home, and while the visuals are much “softer” than keyboard people are used to, there’s nothing really out of the ordinary with their construction. The height is mid-range, the construction is thick PBT plastic with dye-sublimated legends, the design is meant to accommodate fingers, and many other profiles (DSA, XDA, KAM, etc.) are similarly “unscultped.” Clearly not for everyone, but they’re worth considering if getting your legends is a major concern.
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Joined the group buy for DCS Root Beer. I don’t do group buys anymore, but I find it hard to pass up a DCS set, especially when it’s brown. I haven’t had any luck picking up these smaller runs as extras, so I bit the bullet and preordered.
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Seriously considering ordering the Smurve80 (Fully Built, Sandstone, with MX Honey switches).
Normally, I’d go for the barebones, but $20 for decent switches and nice caps is a good deal.
Is there any major benefit to going barebones on this if I don’t super care about a 7u spacebar?
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A philosophical/historical/ergonomic question: If the sculpt of Cherry profile caps was designed to allow for a vaguely Model-M-ish curve on a PCB-mount keyboard, should one use Cherry profile on a keyboard that already has an arc? No wrong answers of course, but it’s something the Smurve has me thinking about. Please note, this has absolutely positively nothing to do with my general frustration with my own inability to properly appreciate Cherry caps as a typing experience. 
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My experience with the model OLED which has the same curved pcb and plate:
Tried some SA all R3 caps. Felt like uniform profile, honestly.
Tried GMK caps. Felt even more comfortable than usual.
The curve is quite subtle
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I was going to buy some 3305 mill max sockets but everyone seems to be sold out. Boo.
I did purchase my 9th ever spool of solder.
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The only Cherry profile caps I have are non-GMK and dyesub PBT, and the only GMK caps I have are MTNU and PBT as well. I think I’m doing it wrong?
Very interesting to hear that. I was wondering if that curve would feel too weird compared to the rest of my boards, but sounds like that’s not the case. Good to know!
Found some over at Keebio:
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3305 at Ringerkeys as well
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those are out of stock though
ah, close. They have the 3305-1 but not 3305-0, which is what I normally use. I’ve never been able to use the 3305-1 b/c they always have stuck out too far for the cases I’m using. I might need to measure, b/c I’m willing to try them for this TKL
Well, nevermind. I just realized the price. It would cost me $100 to buy the sockets for a TKL. Yikes. IDK if it’s tariff shenanigans or what. I should have bought more back in the day. Mode used to keep 3305-0 sockets in stock for less than half that price. They charged $15 for a pack of 50.
I don’t really mind soldering at all. But what I do hate is the time invested being wasted.
It’s not every build, but it has happened on enough that I would consider it a “majority” of builds that the finished product has a few issues. I can test and tune stabilizers all day long, but I swear to god they usually end up with an issue the second the build gets solder.
Same with switches. I can dry test switches and know for sure they sound and feel good. But then, as soon as they are soldered in, I’ll find an issue with them. Maybe after a few minutes typing I notice a weird leaf tick in them… or the travel distance becomes fatiguing after a longer session with them.
Yes, I have a desoldering gun, and it can make quick work of taking an entire build back apart. But once you have to desolder more than a few times, maybe it’s worth paying the money to buy mill max sockets. Grrr…
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I put in my order for a Smurve80.
But what’s crazy is that right after I bought it (chose 7u bottom row), I realized I probably wanted to get a 6.25u bottom row.
So, I send a support email with my order number. I shit you not, I got a confirmation of my order changed within 30 seconds. That’s insane customer service. Thanks, Derek 
as usual, a big thumbs up for @mgsickler
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I ordered one as well: fully built, sandstone, with MX Honey switches, which I believe was 6.25u spacebar only. Had considered going barebones to get a 7u but wanted the switches and caps for $20 more than I wanted a 7u spacebar hah
Edit: Just dawned on me that this will be my first prebuilt since my very first mech in 2020, an aluminum tray mount GK64.
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Ordered some 50g Astro Domes for my Realforce. I remember thinking that something between the 45g and 55g stock domes I tried would be about perfect, and I know these have been a labor of love for BlindAssassin. Also, there’s no way I can own a moddable product and NOT mod it. While I was there, I also grabbed a couple of detent-less encoders to make a rhythm game controller for my kiddo.
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